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AL 


v:-!;;.«<k.-.;T>; 


r±6«el  wimm  moore 


KEPT   DURING   A   TOUR   TO   THE 


WEST  INDIES  AND  SOUTH  AMERICA,    £w-*i4-,( 
IN  1863-64. 


tUM> 


NOTES  FROM  THE  DIARY  OF  HER  HUSBAND; 


TOGETHER  WITH 


HIS   MEMOIR, 


GEORGE    TRUMAN,    M.D. 


PHILADELPHIA  : 
T.    ELLWOOD    ZELL,    PUBLISHER, 

Nos.  17  &  19  S.  Sixth  St. 

1867. 


SHERMAN    ft;    CO.,    PRINTERS. 


LIBRARY 
UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIF( 
SANTA  BARBARA 


Mt 


CONTENTS, 


CHAPTER  I. 

PAOE 

The  Voyage — Nassau, 9 


CHAPTER  II. 

Havana — Slaves  and  Slave-ships — Churches — Vehicles,  .       21 

CHAPTER  III. 
Matanzas — Cave  of  Bellamar, 41 

CHAPTER  IV. 

Negro  Amusements — Trip   to  Manito — Private   Hospi- 
tality,   52 

CHAPTER  V. 

Voyage  to  St.  Thomas — Slavery — Corals,        ...       59 

CHAPTER  VI. 

Religious  Meetings — Santa  Cruz — Insurrections  in  the 

Islands, 82 


VI  CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  VII. 

PAGE 

Frederickstadt — St.  Croix — Vice  and  Immorality,  .         .     103 


CHAPTER  VIII. 

Beauty  of  the  Roads — Coolies  —  Bassin,   or   Christiau- 

stadt — Visit  to  the  Governor, 115 

CHAPTER  IX. 

Schools — Sugar-Grinding — Drives — Visiting  Plantations 
— Mount  Washington — Moui  t  Victory — Harbor — 
Streets — Markets — Birds — Game,       ....     126 

CHAPTER  X. 

Departure — St.  Thomas — Trip  to  Barbadoes,   .         .         .     145 

CHAPTER  XI. 

Barbadoes — St.  Vincent — Landing  at  Demerara — Drives 

— Departure,       .         .         .         .         .         .         .         .158 

CHAPTER  XII. 

Return  to  Barbadoes — Description  of  the  Country — Kind- 
ness and  Hospitality — Friends'  Burying-grounds — 
Religious  Meetings,    .......     174 

CHAPTER  XIII. 

St.  Vincent — Grenada — Trinidad — Coolies,      .         ,         .     192 


CONTENTS.  vii 


CHAPTEK  XIV. 

PAGE 

Barbadoes — St.  Vincent — Burial  at  Sea — Martinique — 
Dominica  —  Guadeloupe — Antigua — St.  Kitt's — Re- 
turn to  St.  Thomas, 204 


CHAPTEK  XV. 

Farewell-rThe  Return  Home, 220 

CHAPTER  XVI. 

Conclusion, 228 


Memoir  op  John  Wilson  Moore,  M.D.,    .         .         .     253 


JOURNAL 


RACHEL  WILSON  MOORE. 


CHAPTER  I. 

The   Voyage  —  Nassau. 


Having  been  absent  during  the  summer  of 
1863  for  the  purpose  of  improving  impaired 
health  of  myself,  when,  on  returning  from  the 
Catskill  Mountains,  instead  of  being  benefited, 
fever,  cough,  and  lassitude  took  hold  of  the 
system  to  that  extent  that  we  believed  nothing 
short  of  going  to  a  warmer  climate,  before  the 
commencement  of  winter,  would  prove  availing. 

After  making  all  necessary  arrangements  for 
the  voyage,  we  took  passage  from  the  port  of  New 
York  the  fourth  of  twelfth  mo.,  1863,  on  board  the 

2 


10  JOURNAL. 

Corsica,  Captain  Lemesurier  commander,  at  ten 
o'clock,  on  second  day.  Many  of  our  friends 
accompanied  us  to  the  ship,  remaining  with  us 
several  hours,  under  feelings  of  great  solemnity, 
anticipating  sad  forebodings  as  to  my  ever  re- 
turning to  my  native  land.  We  parted  from  each 
other  prayerfully,  desiring  we  might  be  per- 
mitted to  meet  again.  The  weather  was  now 
extremely  cold,  and,  having  no  fire  on  board  the 
ship,  save  in  the  furnace  under  the  boilers,  we 
endured  much  suffering  from  the  cold;  and,  as  I 
was  ill,  and  very  weak,  shivering  continued  for 
many  hours,  notwithstanding  the  steward  made 
applications  of  hot  water  by  placing  bottles  and 
pitchers  around  me.  My  dear  husband  was  under 
great  concern  and  fear,  lest  we  should  not  reach 
the  island  of  Cuba  without  my  enduring  a  severe 
illness,  striving  every  way  in  his  power  to  warm 
me,  and  alleviate  my  cough,  which  was  now  ex- 
treme. For  myself,  I  thought  it  very  doubtful 
whether  I  ever  reached  Havana ;  but  we  strove 
to  put  our  confidence  and  trust  in  that  God,  who 
suffers  "  not  a  sparrow  to  fall  to  the  ground  with- 
out His  providence." 

"While  thus  revolving  in  our  minds  the  many 
sad  events  that  were  transpiring  in  our  native 


REBELS    ON    BOARD.  11 

land,  that  we  were  leaving,  filling  our  hearts  with 
sorrow,  we  heard  a  great  noise  in  a  state-room 
opposite  our  door,  amounting  to  a  scuffle.  We 
opened  the  door,  and  discovered  several  men  in 
the  state-room,  with  one  or  two  police  officers 
with  them,  denouncing  them  as  spies  and  rebels; 
at  the  same  time  demanding  papers  which  they 
had  in  their  possession,  relative  to  the  affairs  of 
our  Government,  which  the  men  denied.  Their 
persons  and  trunks  were  searched,  but  finding 
none,  they  were  ordered  to  take  off  their  boots, 
which  one  of  them  offered  to  do,  provided  one  of 
the  officers  would  promise  to  put  them  on,  which 
the  officers  knew  would  be  no  easy  task,  and 
would  not  make  the  promise.  One  of  those 
rebels  then  said  to  an  officer,  "  Come,  go  with 
me;  why  should  not  you  and  I  be  friends?" 
when  they  all  voluntarily  went  to  the  bar,  and 
there  drank  themselves  good  friends.  The  officers 
left  the  ship,  and  the  rebels  returned  to  make 
themselves  merry  over  their  success,  relating  to 
a  large  number  in  the  cabin,  in  our  hearing,  how 
they  had  wheedled  the  officers  out  of  their  plan, 
from  taking  them  from  the  ship,  or  getting  any 
of  their  papers,  through  the  influence  of  liquor, 
as  well  as  politeness ;  one  of  them  saying,  "  There 


12  JOURNAL. 

is  more  contained  in  the  version  of  the  Irishman, 
in  getting  on  with  a  bad  job,  than  one  would 
suppose,  'It  is  not  so  much  in  good  looks  as  in 
winning  ways,' "  saying,  "  My  winning  ways  have 
saved  us  to-day." 

The  same  evening,  leaving  our  moorings  oppo- 
site Jersey  City,  we  set  sail  on  our  voyage,  passing 
through  the  Narrows,  where  we  beheld  the  great 
amount  of  shipping,  which  is  to  be  seen  at  all 
times  in  the  Bay  of  New  York.  •  At  the  hour  of 
ten  at  night,  we  endeavored  to  compose  ourselves 
to  sleep,  after  solemnly  commending  our  lives 
and  our  all  to  Him  who  rules  the  winds  and  the 
waves,  and  slept  tolerably  well.  I  still  continued 
very  sick  with  fever,  cough,  and  oppression. 

My  dear  husband  went  on  deck  in  the  morning, 
but  finding  it  very  cold,  could  not  remain  long. 
We  now  began  to  feel  somewhat  sea-sick,  which 
continued  most  of  the  voyage. 

Our  ship's  company  was  composed  of  a  very 
great  mixture  of  blockade-runners,  secessionists, 
and  but  very  few  loyal  men  and  woman.  The 
only  exceptions  wTe  found  were  George  Gardner 
and  wife,  of  Boston.  There  was  amongst  them 
a  T.  W.  Whitney,  of  Matanzas,  whose  offers  of 
kindness  bespoke  the  gentleman,  but  whose  sym- 


PASSENGERS.  13 

pathies  were  evidently  enlisted  with  the  South. 
There  were  many  women  on  hoard  with  chil- 
dren, from  England  and  the  Southern  States, 
who  were  going  to  rejoin  their  husbands  at  the 
island  of  Nassau,  as  well  as  many  of  them  at 
Cuba;  saying  they  had  not  seen  their  husbands 
since  the  commencement  of  the  war,  but  that 
they  were  entirely  satisfied  to  have  been  so  long 
absent  from  them,  they  never  having  been  in 
such  lucrative  business  before.  I  innocently  in- 
quired what  that  business  could  be,  when  they 
would  answer, "Blockade-running;  it  is  the  best 
of  all  business,"  and  seemed  highly  delighted. 

In  the  great  variety  we  had  on  board,  there 
was  a  young  German  girl,  by  the  name  of  Jo- 
sephine   ,  whom,  if  one  could  judge  by  her 

looks,  might  be  about  twenty-five,  but  she  may 
have  been  somewhat  older.  She  was  travelling 
alone,  highly  educated,  said  she  understood  ten 
different  languages,  and  appeared  to  be  a  profi- 
cient in  each,  of  which  she  gave  an  example. 
She  was  indeed  a  prodigy,  a  philosopher,  as  well 
as  an  exception  to  womankind.  As  we  were 
much  alone  together,  and  I  admired  her  for  her 
learning,  as  well  as  for  her  agreeable  manners,  I 
desired  her  to  give  me  a  short  account  of  her 


14  J  0  U  11  N  A  L. 

history.  She  appeared  to  have  been  bred  in  high 
life.  She  told  me  her  father  resided  in  one  of  the 
large  cities  in  Germany ;  that  she  had  no  mother ; 
her  father  was  advanced  in  years,  and  she,  if  I 
rightly  remember,  was  the  only  daughter.  She 
had  one  brother  living  in  .New  York  city.  I 
asked  the  question,  how  she  could  leave  her 
father,  and  native  land,  and  all  other  dear  friends 
and  early  associations,  and  come  to  a  land  of 
strangers,  rather  than  remain  with  her  aged  pa- 
rent, to  soothe  and  comfort  him  in  his  declining 
years  ?  Her  answer  was,  "  That  is  best  known 
to  myself."  I  took  it  for  granted  that  a  dis- 
appointment, or  some  love  affair,  the  same  cause 
that  has  taken  many  a  young  girl  to  a  convent, 
brought  her  over  sea  and  land,  to  seek  a  foreign 
home,  in  almost  entire  isolation, — telling  me  she 
came  on  from  Germany  to  New  York,  I  think, 
about  three  years  previous  to  the  time  of  our 
meeting.  On  her  arrival,  she  went  immediately 
to  the  house  of  her  brother,  where  she  had  not 
been  long  before  she  took  up  a  newspaper  con- 
taining many  advertisements  of  farms  for  sale. 
She  saw  one  that  struck  her  forcibly,  as  the  spot 
for  her,  above  all  others,  in  Potter  County,  Pa., 
the  extreme  northern  part  of  the  State,  in  the 


PASSENGERS.  15 

midst  of  a  primeval  forest,  several  miles  distant 
from  any  habitation,  which  she  afterward  pur- 
chased. After  seeing  the  advertisement,  she  in- 
quired of  her  brother  what  train  of  cars  she  should 
take  to  proceed  thitherward,  and  the  following 
day  took  all  she  possessed  and  pressed  onward. 
She  found  the  agent,  without  any  difficulty,  on  the 
spot,  and  purchased  the  farm  at  once,  containing 
one  hundred  acres,  and  in  a  short  time  after- 
ward, made  another  purchase  adjoining,  on 
which  was  a  tenant-house  and  some  cleared  land. 
She  got  some  one  to  assist  her  in  procuring  per- 
sons to  work  on  the  farm,  while  she  took  the 
entire  management  of  the  whole.  She  found  no 
difficulty  in  procuring  a  friend,  companion,  and 
domestic,  from  a  farm-house,  several  miles  dis- 
tant,— herself  and  the  young  woman  performing 
all  the  duties  of  the  house,  being  its  only  inmates. 
She  told  me  she  was  educating  her  in  the  best 
manner,  and  that  she  already  knew  several  differ- 
ent languages.  That,  as  they  lived  in  so  much 
isolation,  they  had  plenty  of  time  for  all  the 
duties  they  had  to  perform,  having  no  company. 
I  asked  her  if  they  did  not  feel  timid.  Her  an- 
swer was,  "No,  that  she  did  not  want  to  injure 
any  one,  and  she  was  sure  they  did  not  wish  to 


16  JOURNAL. 

injure  her."  They  spent  much  of  their  time 
riding  on  horseback;  that  they  sometimes  met 
men  riding  out,  but  avoided  them  as  wolves  of 
the  forest.  She  said  she  still  continued  to  live 
there,  with  much  pleasure,  and  never  expected 
to  leave  it.  I  queried  with  her  why  she  was 
leaving  it  to  go  to  Havana  to  spend  the  winter,  if 
isolation  was  so  delightful  ?  She  replied,  she  had 
very  intimate  friends  on  the  island  of  Cuba,  who 
had  sent  for  her  to  come  and  spend  the  winter 
with  them ;  that  she  had  brought  her  companion 
with  her,  and  left  her  at  her  brother's,  in  New 
York,  until  she  should  return.  I  desired  her  to 
give  me  her  address;  she  requested  mine  in  re- 
turn, while  each  extended  a  kind  invitation  to 
interchange  visits.  We  saw  her  leave  the  ship 
with  one  of  her  friends,  on  her  arrival  at  Havana. 
I  presume  if  the  history  of  many  who  have 
gone  to  convents,  or  other  places  of  great  isola- 
tion, was  unfolded,  the  cause  would  not  prove 
unlike  that  which  led  this  German  heroine  to 
sacrifice  all  she  held  near  and  dear  on  earth,  to 
fly  from  scenes  of  disappointment  and  sorrow, 
and,  not  unfrequently,  of  slander,  that  goes  forth 
like  a  whirlwind,  causing  many  an  innocent 
maiden  to  pine  her  life  away  in  obscurity,  and  in 


NASSAU.  17 

her  timidity  to  seek  for  peace  alone  in  some  quiet 
vale,  apart  from  the  world;  while  he  who  has 
deceived  her  is  walking  erect,  with  infamy  in  his 
soul,  and  the  "brand  of  Cain  upon  his  forehead." 
In  the  broad  sunlight  he  wends  his  way  to  the 
homes  of  others,  innocents  like  her.  When  will 
society  become  so  far  reformed  as  to  look  on 
both  sexes  impartially;  when  public  opinion 
shall  tend  to  the  great  principle  of  justice  and 
right,  rather  than  that  of  fashion  or  of  caste  ? 

I  give  my  views  on  this  subject,  as  I  have 
mingled  much  with  all  classes  of  society  for 
many  long  years,  and  have  found  in  ".life  among 
the  lowly "  less  immorality,  more  virtue  and 
truth,  than  I  have  among  the  rich  and  great. 
After  stating  that  all  the  warm  pulsations  of  my 
soul  beat  in  unison  and  deep  sympathy  with  these 
injured  ones,  the  sands  of  time  will  have  passed 
from  my  glass,  before  I  shall  cease  to  lay  a  soft 
hand  gently  on  the  heads  of  this  class,  which  I 
could  only  desire  may  rest  as  dew  upon  the 
flowers. 

On  fourth  day  afternoon  we  began  to  feel  a 
milder  climate,  and  to  experience  its  refreshing 
influence,  especially  myself,  who  up  to  this  time 
had  been  confined  mostly  to  my  state-room.     On 


18  JOURNAL. 

fifth  day,  the  seventh  of  the  month,  we  expe- 
rienced a  spring-like  atmosphere.  In  the  after- 
noon a  steamer  was  discovered  making  after  us, 
and  as  she  gained  upon  us,  fired  a  blank  car- 
tridge, warning  us  to  come  to  and  wait  her  coming 
up,  which  Captain  Lemesurier  did,  much  to  his 
mortification  and  chagrin,  not  knowing  but  it 
might  be  a  pirate  ship,  as  many  infested  the  seas 
at  that  time.  The  steamer  proved  to  be  a  rebel 
war  vessel,  who,  on  finding  ours  to  be  her  Bri- 
tannic Majesty's  mail  steamer  Corsica,  bound  for 
Havana,  passed  on,  leaving  us  to  follow,  calling 
upon  us,  as  she  passed,  for  newspapers,  to  which 
we  replied  in  the  negative.  She  detained  us 
about  one  hour.  On  sixth  day  morning  we  were 
in  quite  a  warm  latitude,  the  thermometer  being 
seventy-six  to  eighty. 

We  now  saw  the  island  of  Nassau  in  the  dis- 
tance, and  about  nine  o'clock  in  the  morning 
attempted  to  enter  the  harbor,  but  found  it  too 
rough,  surrounded  with  rocks,  so  that  the  water 
was  thrown  up  a  great  distance.  The  waves  beat 
with  violence  against  the  rocks,  giving  it  a  terrific 
appearance.  The  captain  concluded  to  go  to  the 
opposite  side,  it  being  to  the  windward,  where  we 
found  a  better  anchorage.     We  laid  there  during 


NASSAU.  19 

the  night,  and  discharged  the  cargo  and  most  of 
the  passengers  designed  for  that  place.  They 
were  placed  on  board  a  lighter  at  night,  which 
looked  very  fearful  to  us  left  behind.  The  sea 
being  very  tempestuous,  many  thought  they 
would  not  reach  the  shore.  The  storm  raged 
considerably  through  the  night,  driving  a  ship  on 
shore,  where  we  saw  her  in  the  morning,  high 
and  dry,  being  a  total  wreck.  I  felt  like  condol- 
ing with  those  on  the  wreck,  as  well  as  with 
the  owners  of  the  wrecked  steamer,  but  was  told 
I  might  give  myself  no  concern  on  that  head,  as 
it  was  often  done  intentionally,  to  get  the  insur- 
ance on  vessel  and  cargo,  but  if  so,  the  passengers 
had  to  suffer.  It  required  four  or  five  schooners 
and  a  small  steamer  to  take  away  the  freight  and 
passengers  that  landed  here. 

On  the  ninth  of  the  month  we  continued  our 
course  round  the  island,  and  came  in  front  of  the 
principal  town,  and  sent  the  remainder  of  the 
passengers  in  lighters  on  shore.  It  was  rather  a 
fearful  operation  getting  the  women  and  the  aged 
off  the  steamer.  They  were  let  down  in  an  arm- 
chair, by  means  of  a  tackle ;  numbering  in  all 
ninety  souls,  as  pure  secessionists  as  ever  rebelled 
against  any  government.    This  island,  Providence, 


20  JOURNAL. 

as  it  is  called,  is  a  small,  barren,  rocky  island, 
grown  over  with  underbrush,  without  culture  of 
any  kind,  and  depending  on  the  States  for  every 
article  of  subsistence.  It  is  now  the  depot  for 
blockade-runners  and  Southern  sympathizers,  and 
a  brisk  trade  is  carried  on  between  this  island 
and  the  South.  The  town  of  Nassau  is  a  small 
place,  having  one  large  hotel,  a  few  government 
buildings,  and  private  residences.  A  mulatto 
man,  our  informant,  gave  us  reliable  information 
concerning  the  condition  of  the  island  previous 
to  the  war ;  that  it  was  of  little  account  until  the 
brisk  trade  commenced  with  the  South,  of  block- 
ade-running. We  concluded  it  could  not  be  a 
desirable  place  for  invalids,  or  residence  for  any, 
except  such  as  are  engaged  in  contraband  trade. 
We  left  our  anchorage  about  two  o'clock  p.m., 
taking  on  board  numbers  of  passengers  from 
Nassau;  and  we  steamed  our  way  for  Havana. 


CHAPTER  II. 

Havana — Slaves  and  Slave-Ships — Churches — 
Vehicles. 

We  reached  Havana  on  the  morning  of  the 
fourteenth  of  twelfth  mo.,  1863,  at  eight  o'clock, 
a.  m.  Among  the  passengers  were  an  English 
gentleman  and  wife,  with  whom  we  became  in- 
timately acquainted,  we  both  going  to  the  same 
hotel  in  Havana,  where  we  spent  a  mouth.  The 
steamer  came  to  anchor  in  the  harbor,  about  one 
mile  from  the  landing,  to  which  we  were  conveyed 
in  small  boats,  at  one  dollar  apiece.  On  coming 
to  anchor  we  were  boarded  by  the  custom-house 
officers,  and  runners  from  the  different  hotels, 
offering  us  their  accommodations,  and  taking 
charge  of  our  baggage.  The  harbor  is  a  fine  one, 
of  basin  shape,  the  entrance  to  which  is  through 
narrows,  on  the  point  of  which  stands  Moro 
Castle  on  a  high  bluff.  It  is  an  extensive  and 
formidable  structure,  and  would  seem  to  defy 
the  assault  of  an  enemy;   but  modern  warfare 

3 


22  JOURNAL. 

sets  at  nought  every  superstructure  of  ancient 
defence. 

After  completing  custom-house  duties,  we 
walked  up  to  Alany's  Hotel,  a  few  blocks  off',  and 
which  stands  in  Plaza  de  Francisco,  exposed  to 
the  view  of  the  harbor.  It  constitutes  a  block, 
so  built  as  to  have  a  court-yard  in  the  centre, 
accessible  through  a  large  doorway,  and  stone 
steps  to  the  second  story,  where  you  land  on  a 
wide  piazza.  The  lower  story  is  occupied  as 
stores,  or  eating  and  drinking  saloons.  The 
house  has  been  kept  for  eighteen  years  by  a  lady 
from  Philadelphia — an  elegant  woman,  of  worth 
and  acquirements.  Her  hotel  is  said  to  be  the 
best  kept  of  any  in  Havana,  and  is  resorted  to 
by  the  first  class  boarders.  ,  Our  friends,  George 
Gardner  and  wife,  from  Boston,  who  had  been 
our  shipmates  from  New  York,  together  with  the 
English  gentleman  and  wife,  from  Canada,  were 
our  companions  here,  as  well  as  George  Bernado 
and  wife,  from  Philadelphia,  making  it  highly 
agreeable,  while  our  stay  was  prolonged  one 
month,  waiting  for  a  steamer  to  take  us  to  St. 
Thomas. 

The  bay  or  harbor  is  surrounded  by  hills,  and 
is  a  complete  basin,  on  one  side  of  which  stands 


HAVANA.  23 

the  city,  forming  the  segment  of  a  circle.  The 
shipping  is  arranged  along  the  wharves,  bow 
foremost,  so  as  to  occupy  the  smallest  possible 
space,  in  front  of  which  is  erected  a  long  shed, 
extending  from  one  end  of  the  town  to  the  other, 
for  the  accommodation  of  loading  and  unloading 
vessels,  and  there  merchants  meet  in  the  morn- 
ing to  transact  business.  The  hours  for  business 
are  from  six  to  nine  o'clock,  after  which  breakfast 
and  custom-house  operations.  On  these  wharves 
may  be  seen  large  numbers  of  slaves,  continually 
loading  and  unloading  vessels.  The  city  looks 
quite  pretty  from  the  harbor ;  but  on  entering  it 
the  stranger  is  struck  with  its  jail-like  appear- 
ance, every  house  of  much  account  being  guarded 
with  iron-grated  doors  and  windows;  also,  large 
massive  iron  doors,  which  open  into  court-yards, 
that  lead  to  dwellings  and  stores.  The  lower 
stories  are  chiefly  occupied  as  storehouses  or 
places  of  business  of  some  kind.  The  streets  are 
narrow,  with  foot-pavements  from  two  to  three 
feet  wide,  mostly  of  round  stone.  Some  of  the 
streets  are  paved  with  square  blocks  of  granite, 
and  mostly  kept  clean,  so  that  you  walk  in  the 
middle  of  the  street  as  common  as  sidewalks. 
The  lower  part  of  the  city  is  in  a  wretched  con- 


24  JOURNAL. 

dition,  scarcely  fit  for  decent  people  to  pass 
through,  being  tilled  with  groggeries,  gambling 
places,  and  filth ;  for  my  own  part,  I  felt  afraid 
to  pass  through  any  of  those  miserable  streets, 
which  was  proved  to  a  demonstration  by  one  of 
our  boarders. 

There  are  a  few  places  in  the  city  somewhat 
attractive.  The  Governor's  Plaza  is  an  open 
space,  ornamented  with  trees  and  shrubbery,  that 
affords  a  pleasant  retreat,  where,  every  evening 
at  eight  o'clock,  the  citizens  are  entertained  with 
a  band  of  music.  Outside  of  the  city  proper  the 
houses  are  more  expensive,  streets  wider,  and 
open  areas  more  numerous.  There  the  elite  of 
the  city  are  seen  driving  every  evening,  from  five 
o'clock,  along  the  Pasio  del  Ysabel,  Casse  del 
Plado,  Campa  del  Marie,  up  the  Tacon.  These 
siaras  are  where  the  aristocracy  of  the  city  re- 
side, and  where  is  found  grandeur  and  squalid 
poverty  intermingled  to  the  greatest  extent  we 
ever  beheld.  Here  is  seen  an  elegant  mansion, 
according  to  their  architecture,  with  its  fine  gar- 
den and  beautiful  grounds,  and  alongside  a  mis- 
erable shanty,  with  groggeries,  and  squalid 
poverty,  in  the  greatest  filth  and  degradation ; 
most  of  the  latter  native  Cubans,  who  with  the 


SLAVERY.  25 

Spaniards  are  always  at  variance.  The  Cubans 
are  allowed  none  of  the  privileges  or  rights 
claimed  exclusively  by  the  Spaniards.  All  the 
fine  buildings  here,  as  well  as  in  the  city  proper, 
are  barricaded  with  iron  bars,  as  we  concluded, 
to  guard  against  insurrections,  as  I  was  satisfied 
would  eventually  come  upon  the  people  of  that 
island,  if  they  continued  to  enslave  and  oppress 
both  colored  and  whites. 

Having  travelled  through  all  the  Southern 
States  when  slavery  existed,  we  never  saw  it  in 
so  horrible  a  form  as  on  the  island  of  Cuba. 
We  did  not  visit  the  calaboose,  at  Havana. 
We  daily  saw  passing  our  boarding-house  a  large 
number  of  slaves,  heavily  loaded  with  irons,  and 
chained  together,  going  into  different  parts  of 
the  city,  to  labor  on  public  works ;  such  as  re- 
pairing pavements,  cleaning  out  sewers,  or  any- 
thing else  of  the  most  menial  character.  As  all 
are  chained  together,  one  could  make  no  move 
unless  all  moved,  which  must  have  given  them 
in  their  irons  the  most  excruciating  pain.  We 
saw  them  down  in  deep  sewers,  amid  mud  and 
filth,  not  only  performing  labor,  daily,  in  those 
wretched  ditches,  but  taking  their  meals  (if  they 
might  be  so  called),  surrounded  with  this  stench. 

3* 


26  JOURNAL. 

My  heart  bled  for  them,  and  I  queried  with  some 
of  the  inhabitants,  to  know  what  their  crime  had 
been,  that  brought  them  to  this  condition.  They 
answered  very  indifferently ,  that  they  did  not 
know,  perhaps  for  some  misdemeanor.  I  replied, 
"  Do  you  suppose  a  people  can  prosper,  while 
oppressing  their  fellow  creatures  to  the  extent 
they  are  here  ?"  Their  only  answer  was,  "  You 
must  be  very  careful  what  you  say,  as  no  one 
dares  speak  on  the  subject."  But  I  was  made  to 
cry  out  in  the  agony  of  my  spirit,  "  How  long, 
oh  Lord,  holy  and  true,  wilt  thou  suffer  this  mys- 
tery of  iniquity  to  be  going  on  in  the  land,  under 
the  high  profession  of  serving  Thee  ?"  As  the 
priests  were  continually  parading  the  streets  in 
their  long  robes,  in  going  to  mass,  and  other  re- 
ligious exercises,  and  were  they  the  ministers  ot 
Christ,  we  believed,  would  do  all  in  their  power 
to  turn  the  captivity  of  this  deeply  oppressed 
people,  which  would  be  as  easy  for  them  as  that 
of  the  water-courses,  as  their  power  and  influence 
is  unlimited. 

As  we  were  riding  out  one  evening,  on  the 
Pasio,  in  the  finest  part  of  the  city,  in  company 
with  our  friends,  G.  Bernado  and  wife,  of  Phila- 
delphia, we  passed  a  gang  of  slaves,  apparently 


SLAVE-SHIPS.  27 

in  great  wretchedness,  with  a  driver  behind  them 
with  an  uplifted  whip.  They  were  probably  be- 
ing driven  out  to  a  plantation.  "We  saw  them 
every  day  while  on  the  island,  always  under  great 
oppression,  and  were  informed  by  a  gentleman 
from  one  of  our  Eastern  States,  that  he  had  re- 
cently returned  from  a  visit  to  a  slave-ship,  which 
had  just  come  in  with  eleven  hundred  slaves  on 
board,  valued  at  eleven  hundred  thousand  dollars. 
He  was  invited  by  a  friend  of  his,  residing  in 
Havana,  to  go  with  him  to  witness  the  enormity 
of  the  slave-trade. 

I  will  give  the  relation,  as  nearly  as  I  can,  in  his 
own  words.  "  They  went,"  he  says,  "  in  the  dark- 
ness of  the  night,  to  a  certain  point  on  the  island, 
where  slave-ships  generally  unload  their  cargoes" 
— it  being  an  isolated  spot.  "We  there  saw  a 
large  number  of  planters  on  the  shore  waiting  for 
the  arrival  of  the  anticipated  slave-ship.  We  wait- 
ed there  for  several  hours,  in  the  darkness  of  the 
night,  until  at  last  she  made  her  appearance. 
On  reaching  her  moorings,  the  cargo  was  hurried 
out  of  the  ship,  with  all  the  rapidity  possible,  and 
placed  upon  the  shore,  many  of  them,  poor  mis- 
erable creatures,  not  being  able  to  stand.  I 
had  heard  of  the  horrors  of  the  slave-trade,  but 


28  JOURNAL. 

the  sight  of  these  poor  creatures,  torn  from  their 
native  land,  in  their  filth  and  degradation,  beg- 
gars all  description — few  of  them  having  the 
appearance  of  human  beings.  After  the  ship 
was  cleared  of  its  inmates,  the  gentleman  who 
had  invited  me  to  go  with  him,  insisted  on  my 
going  on  board  the  ship,  which  I  did,  and  never 
can  I  forget  the  horrid  spectacle  that  met  my 
vision.  The  ship,  from  stem  to  stern,  was  a  mass 
of  filth  and  noxious  vapor ;  it  looked  as  if  all  the 
excrements  accumulated  on  the  passage,  were 
there  deposited,  during  a  voyage  of  ninety  days. 
I  queried  to  know  how  it  was  possible,  eleven 
hundred  could  be  stowed  into  that  ship?  His 
answer  was,  'I  will  show  you,'  pointing  to  that 
part  between  decks,  where  seats  were  formed 
like  stairs,  and  in  every  part  where  they  could  be 
placed,  in  the  same  way.  I  said,  '  They  cannot 
all  be  seated  here,'  when  he  replied,  '  They 
could  not,  except  as  they  are  made  to  fit  each 
between  the  limbs  of  the  other,  having  just  room 
to  crawl  from  their  seats  to  a  certain  spot,  nigh 
at  hand,  too  horrible  to  reflect  upon.'  ISTever 
could  I  have  contemplated  so  revolting  a  sight. 

"  "We  hastened  away  from  the  ship  as  rapidly 
as  possible,  fearing  to  remain  many  minutes  in  so 


SLAVE-SHIPS.  29 

noisome  a  place.  We  returned  to  the  shore,  and 
there  found  an  auction  going  on.  The  many 
planters,  who  had  been  waiting  for  the  arrival  of 
the  ship,  were  now  making  purchases  of  such  as 
suited  them  best. 

"  In  the  course  of  an  hour  or  two,  all  were 
gone,  not  a  vestige  being  left  of  the  blackened 
crime  and  shameful  exhibition  we  had  been  wit- 
nesses to.  The  ship  was  then  towed  out  into  the 
sea  and  scuttled ;  which  is  the  custom  with  the 
owners  of  slave-ships  after  discharging  their  car- 
goes, so  that  no  trace  shall  be  seen  that  such  a 
ship  has  brought  a  cargo  of  slaves  to  the  island. 
I  queried  with  a  gentleman  how  it  could  be  al- 
lowed, as  it  was  contrary  to  the  laws  of  Spain, 
as  well  as  all  other  civilized  countries.  He  said 
the  people  there  got  along  easily  with  that;  as 
money  will  do  anything.  So  many  doubloons 
handed  the  Captain-General,  and  all  will  be  right ; 
which  has  since  been  confirmed  by  a  Cuban  in 
my  own  house." 

Now,  if  this  information  be  incorrect,  the  pres- 
ent Governor  has  nothing  to  do  but  deny  it ; 
but  we  were  informed  the  same  thing,  from 
several  other  sources,  in  Havana.  We  give  the 
statements  as  our  informants  gave  them  to  us. 


30  JOURNAL. 

The  Eastern  gentleman  also  told  us  that  not  long 
after  this  he  was  again  invited  by  his  friend  to 
visit  another  slave-ship,  which  contained  seven 
hundred  slaves.  The  horrors  of  the  scene,  and 
exhibition  of  cupidity  and  crime,  both  with  slave- 
dealers  and  planters,  was  much  the  same  as  the 
first,  the  ship  being  scuttled  as  the  former. 

On  retiring  at  night,  after  those  horrible  rela- 
tions during  the  evening,  sleep  departed  from 
my  eyes,  and  my  spirits  almost  died  within  me. 
Soon  after  the  morning's  dawn,  I  told  my  hus- 
band we  must  go  and  see  the  American  consul ; 
having  relinquished  the  proposal  I  had  made  to 
him,  to  pay  a  visit  to  the  Governor,  my  husband 
feeling  he  was  not  willing  to  risk  the  conse- 
quences that  might  arise  from  an  interview  on 
this  subject. 

We  arose,  breakfasted,  and  paid  him  a  visit. 
I  opened  my  mind  to  him  on  the  subject,  my 
husband  consenting.  He  gave  us  the  most  im- 
perative counsel,  not  to  breathe  a  word  on  the 
subject  to  any  one;  saying,  "You  may  get  into 
difficulties  from  which  you  may  not  be  able  to 
extricate  yourselves,  as  Catholicism  reigns  su- 
preme on  this  island,  and  no  Protestant  is  tole- 
rated in  any  way;"  stating  a  case  of  two  young 


INTOLERANCE.  31 

men  who  came  from  England,  a  few  years  since, 
for  the  purpose  of  obtaining  liberty  to  establish 
a  Protestant  church,  which  they  were  totally  de- 
nied, and  threatened,  if  they  did  not  leave  the 
island ;  which  they  were  willing  to  do,  after  dis- 
tributing a  few  Protestant  tracts;  for  this' crime 
they  were  arrested  and  thrown  into  prison,  where 
they  remained  a  long  time  awaiting  their  trial ; 
after  which  they  were  condemned  to  several 
years'  imprisonment;  this,  coming  to  the  ears 
of  the  English  government,  measures  were  im- 
mediately taken  with  the  Spanish  government 
for  their  release,  which  might  otherwise  have 
terminated  in  a  war  between  the  two  countries. 
They  were  released,  however,  only  by  banish- 
ment forever  from  the  island  on  pain  of  death. 

This  interview  with  the  American  consul  con- 
firmed more  fully  the  danger  there  was  in  saying 
or  doing  anything  that  might  give  offence  to  this 
hierarchy. 

Previous  to  visiting  the  American  consul,  we 
had  requested  of  our  landlady  to  hold  a  religious 
meeting  in  her  house,  at  the  earnest  solicitation 
of  many  of  the  boarders,  which  she  readily 
granted,  saying  it  would  give  her  too  great  sat- 


32  JOURNAL. 

isfaction,  not  having  attended  a  religious  meet- 
ing for  eighteen  years. 

After  the  notices  had  been  put  up  in  different 
parts  of  the  house,  a  Southern  man  came  to  my 
husband,  and  informed  him  that  the  holding  of 
such  a  meeting  might  involve  us  in  much  diffi- 
culty, being  entirely  contrary  to  law;  which  gave 
us  much  concern,  not  so  much  on  my  own  ac- 
count as  on  that  of  my  husband,  who  did  not  feel 
prepared,  as  he  said,  to  suffer  martyrdom  on  that 
island,  or  subject  us  to  the  persecuting  spirit  that 
prevailed  there.  Our  landlady  thought  it  an  un- 
necessary alarm  altogether,  and  insisted  on  the 
meeting's  being  held;  but  we  thought  it  most 
prudent,  as  well  as  many  others,  to  take  down 
the  notices,  to  the  disappointment  of  those  who 
came  from  without,  as  well  as  within  the  house. 
Soon  after,  we  were  informed  that  one  or  more 
officers  were  waiting  below  for  us  to  commence 
the  meeting,  when  we  were  to  have  been  taken 
immediately  to  prison.  And  this  was  no  sham 
for  intimidation,  but  a  reality,  under  the  in- 
fluence of  Catholic  rule.  We  were  afterwards 
told  by  the  American  consul,  that  if  five  persons 
should  hold  a  Protestant  prayer-meeting  in  one 
of  their  chambers,  and  should  it  be  found  out  by 


SLAVERY.  33 

the  authorities,  it  would  subject  them  to  incar- 
ceration in  a  prison. 

We  were  informed  there  was  scarcely  a  day  or 
night  in  which  murders  and  robberies  are  not 
committed,  but  are  seldom  reported.  One  indi- 
vidual, as  near  as  I  can  now  remember,  who  had 
used  some  measures  to  assist  a  slave  to  leave  the 
island,  was  unmercifully  garroted,  and  the  body 
left  suspended,  hanging  in  the  air  for  some  con- 
siderable time,  as  an  example  for  others; — not 
forgetting  to  punish  the  great  crime  of  restoring 
a  stolen  man  to  his  freedom,  while  murderers 
were  permitted  to  go  at  large.  This  case  we  did 
not  see  ourselves,  but  a  friend  of  ours  from  New 
York,  one  of  our  own  Society,  gave  us  the  in- 
formation, being  a  fellow-boarder  with  us. 

I  might  go  on  enumerating  enormities  prac- 
tised on  the  oppressed ;  but  one  feature  more  in 
the  horrid  system  must  suffice.  Another  of  our 
fellow-passengers,  and  boarder  at  the  same  hotel, 
from  Chicago,  rode  out  with  his  sick  son,  in  the 
interior,  to  visit  the  plantations.  On  his  return, 
he  told  us  he  had  beheld  the  most  horrid  sight  he 
ever  saw, — men,  women,  and  children,  in  great 
numbers,  on  sugar  plantations,  in  the  most  abject 

4 


34  JOURNAL. 

and  cruel  condition  of  slavery.  It  was  the  sugar- 
making  season,  and  they  were  pressed  or  driven 
to  that  extent,  that  it  seemed  as  if  they  could 
exist  but  a  short  time  under  such  oppressive 
labor.  As  he  made  no  profession  of  being  an 
Abolitionist,  they  let  him  into  some  secrets, 
which  they  otherwise  would  not — such  as  the 
number  of  hours  they  were  compelled  to  labor 
out  of  the  twenty-four.  They  told  him  that 
eighteen  hours  were  what  they  generally  re- 
quired of  them;  but  when  hard  driven  for  their 
sugars  to  be  in  readiness  for  customers,  they 
did  require  twenty,  sometimes  twenty-two  hours' 
labor  of  them.  May  we  not  ask  ourselves,  while 
reading  this  narration,  whether  we  could  endure 
such  toil,  and  that,  too,  without  any  compensa- 
tion— save  a  salt  herring  and  a  small  quantity  of 
Indian  meal  per  day,  leaving  out  clothing,  as 
what  is  given  them  is  not  worthy  of  the  name  ? 
Should  not  every  human  being  set  their  faces 
against  such  an  infamous  system,  let  it  be  where 
it  may?  crying  out  against  it  as  the  sum  total  of 
all  villanies,  while  the  people  where  it  exists 
seem  as  indifferent  to  it  as  if  it  were  some  ^reat 
boon  conferred  upon  them.  I  believed,  when 
there,  the  time  was  near  at  hand  when  a  change 


SLAVERY.  35 

must  be  wrought,  as  their  measure  of  iniquity 
seemed  nearly  full. 

One  more  instance  of  barbarity  must  be  re- 
corded, on  a  poor  girl,  a  child's  nurse,  at  one  of 
the  boarding-houses.  The  mother  of  the  child 
was  not  living.  The  father  procured  this  young 
nurse.  In  some  way  the  infant  received  a  slight 
injury.  When  it  was  known  to  the  landlady, 
she  told  the  girl  the  father  should  hear  of  it. 
The  girl  begged  her  on  her  knees  not  to  do  it, 
saying,  "My  master  will  whip  me  to  death!" 
But  the  cruel  woman  was  inexorable;  told  her 
she  was  in  fault;  that  she  would  be  as  good  as 
her  word.  The  poor  frantic  young  girl,  well 
knowing  the  consequence,  retired  quickly  to  the 
third  story  of  the  building,  then  jumped  from  one 
of  the  windows  to  the  street,  falling  on  the  stone 
pavement.  She  was  taken  up  and  cared  for,  but 
life  was  nearly  extinct.  We  heard  no  more  of 
the  case,  as  it  was  not  thought  of  much  account, 
such  enormities  being  of  frequent  occurrence. 
It  brought  to  mind  the  truthful  lines  of  a  cele- 
brated author : 

"  Vice  is  a  monster  of  such  hideous  mien, 
As,  to  be  hated,  needs  but  to  be  seen ; 
But  seen  too  oft,  familiar  with  its  face, 
We  first  endure,  then  pity,  then  embrace." 


36  JOURNAL. 

So  it  has  ever  been  with  those  who  have  not  had 
moral  or  religious  principle  to  direct  them.  But 
the  barbarism  connected  with  slavery  seems  too 
vile  and  cruel  for  any  possessed  of  humanity  to 
view  it  in  this  light.  But  so  it  is;  and  to  me  it  is 
a  problem  I  have  never  been  able  to  solve,  how 
well-disposed  people  could  ever  have  held  their 
fellow-creatures  in  bondage,  at  any  period  of 
time. 

I  will  now  speak  about  the  most  common 
vehicles  used  on  the  island  as  pleasure  carriages. 
They  are  called  vol&ntes,  for  one  or  two  horses; 
there  are  a  few  barouches,  and  some  coaches.  It 
is  curious  to  see  how  they  harness  and  fix  their 
little  horses  to  these  vol&ntes;  the  driver  always 
rides  on  one  of  the  horse's  backs,  at  least  ten  feet 
from  the  dasher  of  the  carriage,  and  when  two 
horses  are  used,  one  is  placed  between  the  shafts 
and  the  other  on  the  off"  side,  which  is  ridden  by 
the  driver;  and  what  appears  very  singular  to  us, 
most  of  these  horses  have  their  tails  plaited,  and 
tied  to  one  side  of  the  saddle.  The  horses  are 
small,  and  their  gait  a  sort  of  shuffling  pace, 
which  they  drive  at  the  rate  of  six  miles  an  hour. 

The  houses  are  built  of  stone  and  roughcast, 
from  one  to  three  stories.    The  floors  are  of  brick 


MARKETS.  37 

or  stone,  all  through  the  houses,  making  a  fine 
resort  for  scorpions,  centipedes,  roaches,  darning- 
needles,  and  all  sorts  of  poisonous  vermin,  of 
which  there  is  a  great  abundance  on  the  island. 
Oxen  and  small  horses  are  the  beasts  of  burden, 
as  well  as  donkeys,  travelling  the  streets  continu- 
ally, loaded  with  cane-tops,  baskets  of  fruits  and 
vegetables,  to  such  an  extent  that  the  legs  of  the 
donkey  are  scarcely  seen.  Oranges  and  bananas 
were  in  abundance,  pineapples  not  so  plenty. 
It  is  not  common  for  ladies  to  walk  in  the  street, 
neither  is  it  considered  safe ;  but  our  republican 
habits  could  not  be  circumscribed  by  such  arbi- 
trary rales;  so  on  the  sixteenth  we  took  a  walk 
through  the  town  to  the  market,  where  we  saw  a 
miserable  collection  of  meats,  vegetables,  and  fish 
of  various  kinds;  the  people  looked  at  us  with 
astonishment,  and  made  their  remarks  as  we 
passed  along;  but  not  understanding  them,  we 
took  no  notice  of  them. 

17th.  We  took  a  ride  this  evening,  at  the  in- 
vitation of  George  Bernado  and  wife,  along  the 
Siara,  and  through  the  Tacon,  and  by  the  way 
of  Gordon  House.  It  afforded  us  a  fine  oppor- 
tunity to  see  the  best  part  of  the  city.  We  had 
a  day  or  two  before  taken  a  volante,  and  rode 

4* 


38  JOURNAL. 

along  the  Tacon  and  back.  The  vehicle  was  very 
uncomfortable  for  two  people,  and  the  driver  not 
understanding  our  language,  made  it  anything 
but  desirable  to  be  driven  about  without  know- 
ing anything. 

18th.  The  thermometer  is  72°  in  the  morning, 
and  76°  at  noon,  and  it  rained  all  day;  we  kept 
close  house,  hearing  sad  relations  of  slavery  and 
its  effects,  and  the  cruelties  that  are  practised 
upon  them. 

19th.  The  Evening  Star  arrived  from  New 
York,  bound  to  New  Orleans,  in  which  George 
Bernado  and  wife,  and  others,  are  going  to  that 
city.  The  Corsica  also  sails  to  New  York;  by 
her  we  sent  letters  to  our  friends. 

Atmosphere  cool;  thermometer,  71°  to  75°. 

We  have  made  a  visit  to  the  friends  to  whom 
we  brought  letters,  Burnham  &  Co.,  and  others, 
in  Merchant  Street.  Burnham  is  an  elderly  gen- 
tleman, reserved  and  dignified.  He  has  politely 
offered  to  forward  all  our  letters  sent  to  him. 
F.  Bussing,  37  Merchant  Street,  just  retiring  from 
business,  we  found  very  agreeable.  He  sailed 
with  us  to  St.  Thomas,  with  his  family,  on  their 
way  to  Germany.  "With  this  gentleman  we  felt 
easy  and  familiar,  and  conversed  freely  on  all 


CATHEDRAL.  39 

subjects.  The  Evening  Star  brought  us  no  letters 
from  home. 

20th.  First  day,  morning.  Felt  the  importance 
of  our  position ;  and  the  prayerful  aspiration  of 
the  soul  to  the  throne  of  grace  is  for  light  and 
strength  to  do  the  will  of  Him  whom  we  desire 
to  serve.  Yet  feeling  poor,  stripped,  and  naked, 
without  ability  to  think  a  good  thought,  unless 
thou,  0  Lord,  inspire  us. 

We  visited  the  Cathedral,  in  company  with 
some  of  the  boarders,  at  the  time  of  Mass,  and  sat 
quietly  with  them  during  their  devotions,  which 
consisted  mostly  in  falling  down  on  their  knees, 
on  the  stone  floor,  before  images,  which  were 
erected  in  all  parts,  reminding  us  of  some  of  the 
sayings  of  Paul,  relative  to  the  inscription  on  the 
altar  of  the  Athenians, — "  To  the  unknown  God." 
After  they  had  dispersed,  we  visited  different 
parts  of  the  enormous  edifice,  as  well  as  the  tomb 
of  Columbus,  situated  in  one  end  of  the  building. 
It  is  said  his  remains  are  here  deposited.  The 
inscription  being  in  Spanish,  we  were  unable  to 
decipher  it.  His  memory  is  still  sacred  to  the 
Spaniards.  "We  then  took  cars,  and  rode  seve- 
ral miles  out  on  the  Siara,  and  back  to  Campo 


40  JOURNAL. 

cle  Marti;  from  thence  walked  through  the  city 
to  our  hotel. 

There  is  some  regard  paid  by  many  to  the  day 
of  the  week.  There  is  no  law  regulating  the 
enforcement  of  the  observance  of  the  Sabbath; 
hence  we  see  trade  and  business  going  on  as 
usual,  and  the  public  conveyances  running  as  on 
other  days.  Card-playing,  drinking,  &c,  consti- 
tute the  recreation. 

21st.  Morning  cool ;  thermometer  68° ;  cloudy. 

22d.  Thermometer  68° ;  atmosphere  warmer. 
The  Eagle,  from  New  York,  has  arrived,  bring- 
ing the  widow  and  family  of  the  late  Nicholas 
Biddle,  of  Philadelphia.  They  came  to  our  hotel, 
but  she  being  out  of  health  did  not  remain  long; 
we  not  ascertaining  which  way  they  turned  their 
course. 


CHAPTER  III. 

Matanzas — Cave  of  Bellamar. 

23d.  Rose  at  four  o'clock  in  the  morning,  and, 
in  company  with  George  Gardner  and  wife,  took 
cars  for  Matanzas,  a  distance  of  sixty  miles,  to 
visit  the  Cave  of  Bellamar,  where  we  arrived  at 
nine  o'clock,  and  took  breakfast  at  Hubhel's 
Hotel,  who  (Hubbel)  is  a  Philadelphian,  and 
seemed  gratified  at  seeing  some  of  his  towns- 
men ;  taking  great  pains  to  furnish  our  plates 
with  the  choicest  pieces. 

Here  we  met  Captain  Barnes  and  T.  W.  Whit- 
ney, the  latter  our  old  shipmate  from  New  York 
to  Havana,  and  the  former  an  intimate  friend  of 
my  dear  husband's  for  many  years,  he  having 
been  their  family  physician.  In  company  with 
the  Gardners,  each  taking  a  voldnte,  and  the  other 
above-named  friends  in  another,  with  drivers  on 
the  horses  making  a  great  noise,  we  set  forward. 
The  road,  for  some  distance  towards  the  cave,  is 
very  beautiful,  being  on  the  sea-side,  after  which 


42  JOURNAL. 

we  begin  to  ascend  a  mountain  of  rocks,  over 
which  the  horses  are  actually  forced  up  by  the 
violence  of  the  drivers.  On  either  side  of  the 
road,  as  we  passed,  tall  trees  of  cocoanuts  and 
bananas  might  be  seen,  the  fruits  hanging  in 
great  profusion ;  a  sight  extremely  beautiful  and 
picturesque.  I  had  seen  them  in  pictures,  when 
a  child,  but  little  thought  I  should  ever  stand  on 
the  soil  where  they  grow,  and  where  I  might 
have  had  the  liberty  of  plucking  them  from  the 
boughs. 

I  felt  very  doubtful,  as  well  as  my  husband, 
whether  we  should  reach  the  summit  in  safety, 
the  voldntes  often  appearing  as  if  they  would 
fall  backward.  At  last  we  gained  the  top,  and, 
after  driving  one  mile  over  a  terribly  rough  road, 
came  to  the  Cave  de  Bellamar.*  This  beautiful 
cave  is  owned  by  Manuel  Santos  Parga.  It  was 
discovered  on  the  17th  of  April,  1861,  while 
breaking  limestone  in  the  neighborhood.  One 
of  his  workmen  felt  his  lever  sinking  through  a 
hole,  which  proved  to  be  a  deep  well.  Parga's 
curiosity  was  aroused ;  he  descended,  and  to  his 
amazement  he  saw  a  splendid  cavern.  He  set 
immediately  to  work,  and  so  well  did  he  succeed 

*  From  Guia  de  la  Cueva  de  Bellamar. 


CAVE     OF     BELLAMAR.  43 

in  his  new  discovery  that,  before  one  year  had 
elapsed,  he  gave  to  the  admiring  public  the  won- 
ders of  his  subterranean  domain.  The  cave  has 
been  called  Bellamar,  as  there  is  a  summer  re- 
treat near  by  of  that  name.  The  entrance  to  the 
cave  is  one  mile  distant  from  the  junction  of  the 
two  roads  and  two  hundred  yards  from  the  Parga 
House,  in  which  the  visitors'  register  is  found,  as 
well  as  a  large  assortment  of  fine  specimens  of 
stalactites  and  stalagmites  for  sale.  The  guides 
arc  well  provided  with  lamps  and  tapers.  In  the 
principal  apartments  are  fixed  lights,  or  chande- 
liers, burning  with  great  brilliancy.  Good  paths 
have  been  opened,  bridges  thrown  over,  and  steps 
placed  wherever  the  passage  recpuired  it.  The 
first  hall,  called  the  Gothic  Temple,  is  of  unique 
and  severe  beauty,  and  brings  to  mind  the  solemn 
naves  of  ancient  cathedrals.  As  the  visitors  go 
down  this  hall,  nine  hundred  feet  long  by  two 
hundred  and  forty  wide,  there  are  several  large 
pillars,  which  reach  the  ceiling  of  the  lofty  vault, 
the  largest  of  which  is  sixty  feet  high,  varying  in 
its  width  from  twenty-one  to  nine  feet,  and  bears 
the  name  of  the  Mantle  of  Columbus.  Stately 
are  its  capacious  folds,  and  at  the  foot  many 
figures  may  be   seen  resembling  statuary,   like 


44  JOURNAL. 

men  lying  on  the  ground,  prostrate  in  deep  ado- 
ration ;  these  are  called  the  Twelve  Apostles. 

The  farther  we  descended,  the  heat  became 
more  oppressive,  although  we  had  doffed  above 
all  the  clothing  we  could  spare,  so  that  our  friend 
George  Gardner  proposed  returning,  thinking 
he  would  not  be  able  to  breathe  long  there.  My 
dear  husband  urged  him  onward,  and  we  all 
found  we  soon  became  accustomed  to  the  atmos- 
phere. Opposite  to  the  Mantle  of  Columbus,  in 
the  other  end  of  the  Gothic  Temple,  stands  a 
niche,  called  the  Altar,  decorated  with  stones, 
not  unlike  images,  shaped  by  an  awkward  hand. 
At  the  foot  of  the  Altar,  on  a  prominent  stone, 
the  guardian  of  the  Cave,  a  rude  statue,  raises  its 
solemn  head,  turned  towards  the  entrance.  There 
are  two  openings  in  the  Gothic  Temple,  through 
which  the  hall  is  left,  to  enter  the  subterranean 
passages ;  both  are  in  front  of  the  traveller  as  he 
descends.  Following  the  itinerary  of  the  guides, 
the  left  one  is  chosen,  and  he  finds  himself  in  the 
Gallery  of  the  Fountain,  two  thousand  four 
hundred  feet  long.  The  crystallizations  of  the 
Gothic  Temple  are  white,  somewhat  tinged  with 
brown.  As  soon  as  we  enter  the  Gallery  of  the 
Fountain,  we  see  on  either  side  the  most  delicate 


CAVE    OF    BELLAMAE.  45 

work,  of  a  shining  white,  representing  the  most 
beautiful  scalloped  embroidery.  Just  in  the  cen- 
tre of  the  Gallery  the  spring  is  seen  which  gives 
it  the  name  of  the  Fountain ;  the  water  fills  a 
basin,  white  as  marble,  and  is  pure  and  agreeable 
to  the  palate.  There  we  all  slaked  our  thirst, 
and  some  of  us,  I  think,  bathed  our  faces  it. 
Close  by  the  fountain  the  passage  is  covered  by 
the  most  beautiful  stalactites,  forming  the  closet 
of  the  "  Indian  Maiden."  After  this,  the  traveller 
is  shown  a  fine  arch,  called  the  "  Devil's  Gorge," 
bound  on  one  side  by  a  large  stalactite  called  the 
"  Organ,"  which  very  much  resembles  that  musi- 
cal instrument.  A  few  yards  beyond  the  "  Gorge," 
the  stalactites  and  stalagmites  mingle  together  in 
such  a  manner  that  they  form  a  mass  of  trans- 
parent alabaster.  Some  of  these  are  of  the  most 
fantastic  shapes,  clear  as  crystal.  Lights  are 
placed  behind  them  to  show  them  off.  Among 
them,  the  Sepulchre  is  found.  But  the  most  re- 
markable is  the  Embroidered  Petticoat;  this  is, 
indeed,  one  of  the  jewels  of  the  Bellamar  Cave. 
It  is  a  most  beautiful,  bell-shaped,  hollow  stalac- 
tite, as  smooth  as  marble,  several  feet  in  height. 
Near  the  bottom,  a  symmetrical  edge,  six  inches 
wide,  made  up  of  large  crystals,  adds  much  to  its 

5 


46  -        JOURNAL. 

beauty.     The  "  Sofa  "  forms  also  an  interesting 
group  of  these  stalactites. 

As  we  wandered  through  the  Cave,  we  came  to 
the  end  of  the  Gallery  of  the  Fountain,  but  only 
to  see  new  and  greater  wonders,  each  one  calling 
out  "  Look  here  !"  while  in  a  moment  we  heard 
the  sound,  "  See  there!  how  grand,  how  magnifi- 
cent !"  The  Hall  of  the  Benediction,  so  called  by 
one  of  the  reverend  bishops,  who  pronounced  it 
blessed,  in  a  fit  of  enthusiasm,  being  a  chamber 
of  surpassing  beauty.  It  is  forty-two  feet  long, 
twenty-four  wide,  and  thirty-six  high.  The  floor, 
the  walls,  the  vault,  are  of  dazzling  white,  form- 
ing an  aerial  vista  of  stalactites,  covered  with  crys- 
tallizations; these  hang  from  the  vaults,  which  are 
ornamented  with  alabaster  curtains.  One  of  the 
pendant  stalactites  has  the  name  of  Don  Hosmo's 
Lamp.  A  gentleman  wished  to  purchase  it  for  a 
large  sum,  but  the  owner  said,  "  ISTo ;  let  the  vis- 
itors enjoy  the  grand  sight."  One  of  the  most 
striking  objects  in  the  Hall  of  the  Benediction  is 
the  Mantle  of  the  Virgin, — a  massive  stalactite, 
which  falls  like  a  transparent  cascade,  with  a 
splendid  border,  the  surface  being  slightly  undu- 
lated, while  the  square  facets  shine  like  precious 
stones.     Under  the  Mantle  of  the  Virgin  is  a  pure 


CAVE    OF     BELLAMAR.  47 

stream  of  water,  the  source  of  which  is  still  a 
mystery;  it  is  called  the  Mysterious  Spring.  An 
attempt  has  been  made  to  discover  a  passage  to 
it,  but  all  efforts  proved  unavailing;  while  thus 
exploring  for  a  passage,  the  lights  soon  were  ex- 
tinguished, and  the  horror  was  greatly  increased 
on  finding  the  matches  were  wet:  lost  in  the 
dark  cavities,  they  thought  of  their  last  hour. 
Happily,  the  wife  of  the  proprietor  became 
alarmed  at  her  husband's  delay,  and  sent  in  her 
servants  to  search  for  him.  The  lost  ones  were 
found  in  the  most  pitiable  condition ;  they  had 
been  for  eighteen  hours  in  much  suffering,  both 
physical  and  mental.  We  next  passed  to  the  Gal- 
lery of  the  Lake,  remarkable  for  the  appearance 
of  a  snow-drift.  Although  at  the  end  of  this 
gallery  the  Lake  of  Dahlias  is  found,  it  is  not 
accessible  for  visitors,  as  the  flowers  are  under 
water.  In  another  part  of  the  cave  is  Hatney 
Gallery,  named  for  a  famous  Indian  chief,  in 
the  early  history  of  the  island. 

Next,  a  chamber,  called  "  The  Closet  of  the 
Beautiful  Matanceras,"  near  which  are  many 
others,  too  numerous  to  mention.  The  readers 
must  go  and  see  for  themselves,  taking  this  book 
with  them  for  a  guide.     The  depth  of  this  cave 


48  JOURNAL. 

is  three  hundred  and  sixty  feet.  The  ground  is 
dry,  but  always  of  a  hot  temperature;  fossil  shells 
cover  some  portions  of  the  vaults;  a  large  amount 
of  filagree  work  may  be  seen  in  many  parts,  so 
fanciful,  as  fit  models  for  the  artist.  Gothic 
chapels,  with  many  hues  of  the  rose  and  violet, 
with  gold  color,  may  be  seen. 

On  coming  again  to  the  light  of  day,  we  felt 
much  chilliness;  but  wrapping  ourselves  in  our 
warm  shawls,  we  turned  our  faces  towards  the 
city  of  Matanzas,  of  which  we  had  a  fine  view. 
We  purchased  some  beautiful  specimens,  as  well 
as  had  some  presented.  Our  kind  friend,  Captain 
Barnes,  oifered  to  take  mine  to  Philadelphia,  on 
board  of  his  ship,  to  which  we  readily  acceded. 
"We  had  seen  some  parts  of  the  country,  which  is 
beautiful  as  it  meets  the  eye  of  the  beholder.  The 
highlands  of  Lacumbre,  which  conceal  the  val- 
ley Yumuri ;  the  Abra,  a  deep  ravine,  where  the 
Yumuri  River  calmly  flows ;  Simpson  Hill,  with 
villas  scattered  about  its  lap  ;  the  city  gracefully 
laid  out  on  wavy  ground ;  at  a  distance  the  pan 
of  Matanzas :  all  contribute  to  form  a  picture 
worthy  of  the  blue  sky  that  pours  on  it  the  bright- 
ness of  its  tropical  tints.  The  excursion  required 
three  hours. 


CAVE    OF    BELLAMAR.  49 

M.  Porga  does  not  cease  to  work,  in  order  to 
bring  out  new  beauties,  that  he  may  offer  new  gal- 
leries and  halls  to  the  public,  sufficient  to  gratify 
the  most  devoted  lover  of  the  beautiful  in  nature. 
He  is  said  to  be  a  man  of  great  worth,  which  his 
indomitable  perseverance  stamps  on  his  charac- 
ter; the  traveller  finds  him  always  ready  to  show 
his  gorgeous  treasures,  but  allows  no  one  to  de- 
face their  beauty.  The  entrance  fee  to  the  Bel- 
laniar  Cave  is  one  dollar,  guides  and  lights  in- 
cluded. A  good  saddle  horse  (or  what  the  owner 
calls  good)  may  be  hired  for  four  dollars  and 
twenty-five  cents;  a  voldnte,  with  a  pair  of 
horses,  for  eight  dollars  and  fifty  cents ;  we  may 
use  them  for  three  or  four  hours,  but  the  excur- 
sion is  often  accomplished  in  two  and  a  half  or 
three  hours. 

We  have  visited  many  caves  in  the  United 
States  and  in  Europe,  but  never  saw  one  in  all 
our  wanderings  of  so  much  interest,  as  well  as 
surpassing  beauty,  as  this.  I  could  have  wan- 
dered and  explored  its  subterranean  vaults  for  a 
much  longer  time,  without  the  least  feeling  of 
weariness.  The  grandeur  of  the  scene  will,  I 
trust,  ever  remain  fresh  in  mind,  calling  up  vivid 
remembrances  of  bygone  days,  when  those  we 

5* 


50  JOURNAL. 

held  near  and  dear  were  grouped  together  with 
us,  a  happy  band!  now  sleeping  in  the  silent  halls 
of  death !    For  a  few  brief  moments  let  us  pause 
and  reflect  what  sad  changes  have  been  meted 
out  to  the  writer  of  this  work  since  that  period ; 
but  this  is  a  world  of  continued  change,  and  the 
last  final  change  must  come  ere  long.     The  prin- 
cipal sources  of  activity  are  taken  away,  when 
those  we  have  so  dearly  loved  are  removed  from 
us,  those  who  continually  animated  us  to  renewed 
exertion,  and  sweetened  all  the  toils  of  life;  who 
dispersed  the  clouds  as  they  gathered  by  the  sun- 
shine in  their  souls !  but  for  the  loss  of  such, 
where  can  we  find  consolation,  and  refnge  for  the 
troubled  spirit,  save  in  the  bosom  of  religion? 
This  only  can  warm  and  fill  the  heart!  which 
trials  and  bereavements  soften,  and  confirm  more 
fully,  that  this  is  not  our  abiding-place.     I  often 
wonder  that  travellers  are  not  more  devout,  more 
contemplative  on  the  works  of  creation  and  Prov- 
idence ;  the  opportunity  is  so  great  for  reflection 
and  the  enlargement  of  the  mind.     In  the  words 
of  a  Scripture  writer,  "  They  that  go  down  to  the 
sea  in  ships,  that  sail  on  great  waters,  these  see 
the  works  of  the  Lord  and  His  wonders  in  the 
deeps." 


CAVEOFBELLAMAR.  51 

We  again  took  the  cars  for  Havana,  and  ar- 
rived in  time  for  tea,  at  eight  o'clock, — our  fel- 
low-boarders all  desirous  to  know  how  we  en- 
joyed the  trip,  many  of  them  saying,  "We  must 
go  too,"  seeming  in  ecstacies  at  our  recital. 

Our  trip  gave  us  a  good  opportunity  for  seeing 
the  country,  which  is  mostly  level,  covered  with 
palm  trees  and  orange  groves.  The  soil  is  of  a 
bluish  color,  and  looked  poor.  The  plantations 
seemed  neglected.  The  palm  is  a  tree  of  great 
beauty  and  height,  and  seemed  to  look  down 
with  indignation  on  the  slave-worn  soil  below. 
We  saw  but  few  sugar  estates;  but  little  grass; 
indeed,  the  whole  district  we  should  call  misera- 
ble, so  that  we  had  to  wonder  from  whence  came 
the  oranges,  pineapples,  and  bananas,  that  we  saw 
in  the  city. 


CHAPTER  IV. 

Negro  Amusements — Trip  to  Manito — Private 
Hospitality. 

25th.  Christmas-day  is  holiday;  great  com- 
motion through  the  night,  celebrating  the  advent 
of  Christ.  It  is  very  warm;  thermometer  at  12 
o'clock,  76° ;  my  dear  husband  not  well  to-day. 

We  had  heard  much  said  as  to  the  amusements 
of  the  slaves  and  free  people  of  color,  at  Christ- 
mas. "We  did  not  know  what  it  was ;  but  when 
the  time  came,  I  saw  them  hasteniug  with  their 
work,  at  the  hotel,  and  offered  to  assist  them ; 
other  ladies  seeing  me  do  so,  also  came  forward, 
and  we  soon  despatched  their  work.  In  one  hour 
after  we  were  called  to  see  them,  in  the  open 
square  in  front  of  our  house,  painted  in  the  most 
fantastic  manner,  nearly  destitute  of  clothing, 
performing  all  kinds  of  pantomime  antics,  and 
debasing  themselves  in  various  ways,  while  ut- 
tering deafening  screams  at  the  top  of  their 
voices ;  the  white  people  laughed  and  made  merry 


NEGRO    AMUSEMENTS.  53 

over  their  degradation.  It  reminded  us  of  "  Sam- 
son when  he  was  brought  out  of  prison  to  make 
sport  for  the  Philistines,  finding  afterwards  he 
had  strength  sufficient,  he  proved  the  death  of 
them  all;"  which  will  be  no  wonder,  should  it 
be  fulfilled  to  the  letter.  I  told  the  spectators  we 
should  set  our  faces  against  all  such  debasing  ex- 
hibitions, and  impress  upon  them,  the  colored 
people,  their  manhood;  that  they  were  account- 
able beings,  and  possessed  a  higher  nature  than 
merely  low  and  animal  passions;  that  I  felt  it 
was  wrong  to  remain  to  witness  that,  which  to 
some  seemed  a  pleasure,  as  it  might  be  an  en- 
couragement to  them  to  go  on.  My  dear  husband 
and  self  retired  to  our  own  room ;  soon  all  the 
boarders  left  the  stand  on  the  balcony,  and  the 
poor  ones  forsook  their  folly.  I  felt  I  had  done 
right,  and  retired  that  night  to  rest  in  peace. 

Near  this  time,  Lady  Madden,  a  New  Yorker 
like  myself,  had  invited  us  to  her  house  to  break- 
fast, at  eleven  o'clock.  She  sent  a  splendid 
volante,  with  a  driver,  to  take  us  thither.  She 
is  a  very  polite,  agreeable  woman,  as  was  Lady 
Bell,  and  many  others  I  have  cause  to  remember. 
I  hope  we  may  meet  again.  Mary  Kelly,  one  of 
our  boarders,  went  with  us.     She  too  is  from  New 


54  JOUHNAL. 

York.  We  rode  out  on  the  Siaro,  where  Lady 
Madden  lives,  in  one  of  the  finest  dwellings,  bar- 
ricaded, like  all  the  rest,  with  iron  gratings,  her 
husband  remaining  out  on  the  plantation,  many 
miles  distant,  with  a  large  number  of  slaves. 

On  our  arrival  she  went  with  us  to  visit  a 
neighbor,  who  had  attached  to  the  grounds 
around  her  mansion  the  most  tasteful  garden  and 
pleasure-grounds  we  had  ever  seen  in  any  coun- 
try, being  laid  out  with  much  care;  with  fine 
gravel  walks  in  all  directions ;  with  lakes,  foun- 
tains, and  cascades,  at  almost  every  turn.  She  is 
a  woman  of  more  than  eighty  years.  The  avenue 
to  the  house  is  of  great  width,  bordered  with 
palm,  cocoanut,  and  cactus  trees,  with  other  va- 
rieties, all  in  primal  beauty.  The  cactus,  being 
in  flower,  gave  the  lawn  a  splendid  appearance. 
Every  variety  of  shrub  and  flower,  brought  there 
from  foreign  lands,  embellished  her  grounds,  and 
she  told  us,  through  an  interpreter,  they  had  been 
planted  by  her  own  hands;  but  we  presumed 
under  her  supervision,  while  some  others  per- 
formed the  labor.  She  is  naturally  a  genius, 
being  a  native  Cuban,  speaking  no  other  lan- 
guage ;  she  has  taken  up  the  art  of  drawing, 
painting,  working  in  wax,  stuffing  birds,  polishing 


PRIVATE     RESIDENCES.  55 

the  different  varieties  of  wood  growing  on  the 
island,  which  quite  astonished  us.  The  paintings 
were  exquisite,  as  were  all  her  other  perform- 
ances; and,  if  I  rightly  remember,  a  large  portion 
of  her  best  had  been  executed  in  her  old  age;  all 
having  been  learned  without  a  teacher.  One  of 
the  lakes  on  the  premises  was  of  sufficient  size 
to  keep  a  boat-house  on  its  bank,  for  pleasure  ex- 
cursions, much  the  same  as  in  the  environs  of 
Paris,  as  well  as  at  the  palace  of  Versailles.  On 
the  borders  of  the  largest  lake  were  numerous 
waterfowl,  and  two  large  aviaries,  filled  with  al- 
most every  variety  of  birds,  also  a  dove-house, 
of  the  most  curious  architecture.  Many  aged 
people  of  color  were  about  the  premises,  who,  we 
presumed,  had  performed  much  of  the  labor. 
She  then  conducted  us  into  her  house,  where 
was  a  chapel,  crucifix,  and  everything  for  per- 
forming Catholic  devotions.  She  offered  us  sev- 
eral beautiful  specimens  of  different  articles  in 
her  house,  as  presents,  we  having  spoken  highly 
of  her  genius,  but  we  declined,  and  were  told,  on 
our  return,  that  it  is  merely  done  for  etiquette,  it 
being  the  custom  of  the  people  of  the  island.  We 
received,  however,  some  of  her  fine  specimens  of 
flowers,  and  some  beautiful  cocoanuts,  just  taken 


56  JOURNAL. 

from  the  tree,  of  which  there  were  many  on  her 
premises.  We  then  returned  to  breakfast  with 
Lady  Madden,  where  we  met  a  few  of  her 
friends,  who  had  also  been  invited.  After  we 
had  breakfasted,  which  might  have  been  be- 
tween one  and  two  o'clock,  we  returned  to  our 
hotel,  she  sending  us  in  her  vol&nte. 

The  women  on  this  island  go  without  hats  or 
bonnets ;  most  of  them  have  a  thin  veil  over 
their  faces,  thrown  back  on  their  shoulders. 
The  wealthy  dress  very  richly. 

We  shall  ever  remember  Lady  Madden's  kind- 
ness to  us  strangers  with  feelings  of  gratitude. 

On  our  return,  our  friends,  George  and  Eliza 
Gardner,  we  found  were  preparing  to  sail  for 
Cadiz,  in  a  Spanish  man-of-war,  with  one  thou- 
sand troops,  destined  for  St.  Domingo. 

31st.  Took  the  omnibus,  at  the  Plaza,  with 
Alphonsio  Peletee  as  guide,  for  the  railroad 
depot,  to  take  us  to  Manito,  twelve  miles  from 
the  city.  The  country  through  which  we  passed 
presented  a  much  better  appearance  of  cultiva- 
tion than  that  at  Matanzas.  It  is  more  hilly,  and 
far  more  picturesque.  On  this  road  we  saw  the 
pineapple  growing,  for  the  first  time,  which  is 
the  green  top  of  the  fruit,  planted  in  hills  like 


MANITO.  57 

cabbage,  which  shoot  forth  new  leaves,  and  the 
fruit  grows  in  the  centre,  one  apple  only  to  each 
plant. 

Manito  is  on  high  ground,  and  much  more 
healthy  than  at  Havana.  It  is  here  many  citizens 
flee  to  escape  the  epidemics  often  occurring  in 
the  city. 

First  mo.  1st,  1864. — This  day  is  kept  as  a  holi- 
day; all  work  suspended;  stores  mostly  closed,  but 
inside  the  clerks  are  playing  cards  and  drinking. 

We  have  been  here  (Havana),  over  three  weeks, 
and  the  time  now  seems  long.  We  strive  to  be 
patient  and  watchful,  but  feel  our  leanness  and 
poverty.  Oh  that  our  Heavenly  Father  would 
illuminate  our  hearts,  and  give  us  to  see  and 
practise  His  divine  will.  In  looking  over  our 
lives  we  cannot  say  that  we  know  anything  as 
we  ought,  save  by  His  holy  workings  in  our  souls, 
teaching  us  what  is  good,  and  warning  us  to 
avoid  the  wrong.  May  His  grace  fill  our  hearts, 
so  that  we  may  know  no  other  will  than  that 
which  flows  from  His  holy  fountain  of  truth. 

2d.  Quite  cool  this  morning;  wind  and  rain. 
We  called  on  the  English  consul  to-day,  to  engage 
our  passage  to  St.  Thomas,  but  were  told  our  pas- 
sage could  not  be  paid  until  the  steamer  arrived. 

6 


58  JOURNAL. 

The  Morning  Star  readied  here  yesterday,  by 
which  we  received  two  Tribunes,  of  the  twenty- 
sixth  ult.,  from  "W.  C:  B.,  New  York. 

3d.  Morning  clear;  thermometer  72°.  My 
cough  still  continues;  my  dear  husband  is  untir- 
ing in  trying  to  alleviate  it,  but  at  times  it  seems 
uncontrollable. 

5th.  Quite  warm  the  last  few  days ;  thermome- 
ter ranging  from  72°  to  79°.  The  people  here 
are  mostly  secessionists,  or  their  sympathizers. 
We  are  now  luxuriating  on  oranges,  at  ten  cents 
a  dozen;  bananas  are  also  plenty,  but  pineapples 
are  scarce  this  season ;  we  buy  them  at  sixteen 
and  twenty  cents  apiece. 

6th.  The  Columbia  left  for  New  York.  This 
is  the  King's  day,  or  negro  holiday,  as  they  term 
it.  They  dress  up  fantastically,  and  go  about  the 
streets  singing  and  dancing  to  the  sound  of  a 
drum;  but  we  turned  from  it  with  disgust,  know- 
ing it  was  only  their  degraded  condition  that 
made  them  enjoy  it.  The  Clyde  arrived  about 
five  o'clock,  and  my  dear  husband  went  on  board 
to  engage  our  passage  to  St.  Thomas.  The  fare 
was  one  hundred  and  twenty  dollars  each;  state- 
rooms 12  and  13, 


CHAPTER  V. 

Voyage  to  St.  Thomas — Slavery — Corals. 

7th.  We  called  on  Bumham  &  Co.,  and  di- 
rected all  letters  sent  for  us  to  be  forwarded  to 
St.  Thomas.  Much  regret  was  expressed  by  our 
hostess,  and  many  of  the  boarders,  at  our  de- 
parture, expecting  we  were  to  remain  the  winter. 
We  went  on  board  at  five  o'clock  p.m.  We  felf 
under  great  discouragement,  hearing  of  this 
steamer  not  being  seaworthy,  and  of  her  unclean- 
ly condition;  but,  as  passengers  continued  to 
come  on  board,  our  confidence  increased.  We 
were  very  glad  to  leave  the  intolerant  and  oppres- 
sive spirit  that  prevailed  on  the  island ;  but  dear 
friends,  whose  acquaintance  we  had  formed  there, 
we  did  feel  a  regret  to  part  from.  We  slept  well, 
and  at  seven  o'clock  next  morning,  on  the  eighth, 
weighed  anchor  and  steamed  our  way  out  of  the 
harbor,  taking  our  course  for  St.  Thomas.  The 
sea  was  calm,  although  the  wind  was  ahead,  and 
we  glided  along  the  coast  at  nine  knots.     As  we 


60  JOURNAL. 

passed  through  the  Narrows,  and  rounded  Moro 
Castle,  the  city  of  Havana  looked  far  more  beau- 
tiful than  we  had  seen  it  before. 

Moro  Castle  is  erected  on  a  rock  of  great  ex- 
tent, out  in  the  sea.  We  were  told  by  our  ship- 
mate, Whitney,  from  Matanzas,  that  a  large  num- 
ber of  cells  were  excavated  in  the  rock,  below 
the  structure,  where  criminals  were  placed,  and 
few,  if  any,  ever  came  out  that  were  there  im- 
mured; which  we  could  readily  give  credit  to, 
from  what  came  under  our  own  observation.  I 
omitted  to  say,  in  the  proper  place,  that  just  in 
front  of  our  hotel  was  an  old  cathedral,  where 
we  were  told  all  the  instruments  of  torture  were 
kept,  that  were  in  use  during  the  Spanish  Inquisi- 
tion, and  were  still  used  for  certain  crimes,  which 
we  were  not  slow  to  believe,  as  Catholicism  gov- 
erns every  movement  and  measure;  indeed,  all 
the  power  of  life  and  death  is  in  their  hands. 
We  had  mingled  with  Catholic  priests  in  France, 
and  found  them  social  and  polite;  but  not  so  on 
this  island,  as  they  were  passing  us  daily,  in  their 
long  robes  and  cowls,  without  turning  their  heads 
or  looking  at  us,  probably  having  knowledge  of 
our  being  Protestants ;  that  of  itself  would  brand 
us  with  heresy. 


PASSENGERS.  61 

After  getting  fully  under  way,  they  began  to 
clean  up,  and  in  the  course  of  the  day  got  things 
comfortable.  The  captain  and  officers  were 
social,  and  the  passengers  familiar;  our  fare  was 
good,  and  everything  done  to  make  us  comfort- 
able, but  we  were  both  sea-sick.  The  French 
minister,  with  his  young  wife,  from  Mexico,  was 
on  board ;  he  is  at  least  sixty  years  of  age,  con- 
siderably bowed,  and  quiet  in  his  habits;  his- 
wife  was  a  young  girl  of  seventeen.  He  told  me 
he  had  watched  her  as  a  school-girl,  from  early 
childhood.  She  was  rather  dull  and  unsocial; 
she  had  an  attendant  with  her,  of  whom  she 
made  a  companion.  She  was  quite  an  heiress; 
her  father  having  recently  died,  left  her,  as  we 
were  told  on  board  the  ship,  the  sum  of  seven 
hundred  thousand  dollars.  On  hearing  this,  we 
did  not  so  much  wonder  he  wanted  to  marry  her, 
but  were  somewhat  surprised  at  her  choice. 
Their  manoeuvring  for  the  first  twenty-four  hours 
out,  created  much  merriment  among  the  pas- 
sengers. We  had  all  been  forewarned  by  the 
steward  that  not  one  of  our  port-hole  windows 
should  be  left  open  at  night,  as  the  sea  was  run- 
ning pretty  high,  and  would,  without  doubt,  cause 
the  water  to  clash  into  the  state-rooms.     He  even 

6* 


62  JOURNAL. 

went  round  himself  and  locked  every  window, 
but,  by*  some  means  or  other,  the  minister  and 
his  wife  got  theirs  open;  soon  after  which  we 
shipped  a  sea,  they  having  all  the  benefit  of  it  in 
their  berths,  giving  everything  in  their  state- 
room a  drenching.  The  stewardess  was  called 
up  in  great  haste,  as  the  minister  and  wife  were 
dripping,  and  knew  not  what  to  do.  Everything 
had  to  be  removed  from  their  state-room,  and  it 
was  a  long  time  before  anything  could  be  pro- 
cured to  prepare  them  another  bed,  but  the  inci- 
dent caused  merriment  enough  for  the  rest  of 
the  passage. 

We  found  there  was  much  to  learn  on  ship- 
board, and  all  the  variety  of  characters  to  be 
met  with,  but  we  enjoyed  it  much  after  all.  F. 
Busang,  wife,  and  child,  returning  to  Germany; 
George  Branaman,  wife,  and  child,  from  Lancas- 
ter County,  Pennsylvania,  and  many  others ;  Dr. 
Falls,  Hicks,  the  rebel  spy,  and  Howland,  wife, 
and  two  daughters,  from  New  York,  sympa- 
thizers with  Hicks ;  this  party,  with  some  others, 
constituted  our  ship's  company.  The  only  good 
Union  man  on  board,  we  believe,  was  George 
Armond,with  his  son,  from  Chicago.  Our  course 
lay  along  the  Island  of  Cuba,  which  we  kept  in 
sight  most  of  its  length. 


ST.     DOMINGO.  63 

10th.  Sea  rough;  wind,  southeast.  It  is  first 
day ;  nearly  all  ot  the  passengers  sick.       » 

11th.  We  are  now  opposite  St.  Domingo,  and 
where  the  Spaniards  are  warring  against  them,  to 
subdue  them  to  the  Spanish  yoke. 

This  government,  a  few  years  ago,  was  treach- 
erously given  up  to  the  Spanish  Crown,  by  the 
Governor ;  the  Spaniards,  failing  to  comply  with 
the  articles  of  agreement,  the  Dominicans,  white 
and  black,  have  declared  for  independence ;  and 
now  a  most  destructive  war  is  raging. 

13th.  We  passed  in  sight  of  numerous  small 
islands,  also,  Porto  Rico,  which  is  mountainous  and 
quite  extensive,  and  entered  the  beautiful  harbor 
of  St.  Thomas,  on  fourth  day,  the  thirteenth  of 
first  mo.,  1864,  about  two  o'clock  p.m.,  being  five 
days  and  seven  hours  performing  the  trip,  a  dis- 
tance of  seven  hundred  miles.  The  town  is  called 
Charlotte  Amelia,  and  stands  on  the  north  part 
of  the  basin,  on  an  amphitheatre  of  hills,  rising 
principally  from  the  main  street,  which  is  the 
place  of  business.  The  houses  are  built  on  the 
side  of  the  hill,  and  overlook  each  other,  so  that 
the  back  streets  are  on  a  level  with  the  tops  of 
the  houses  on  the  street  below.  Few  of  the 
houses  have  window-sashes.     Santa  Anna  resides 


64  JOURNAL. 

here,  and  has  a  fine  large  house  in  the  western 
part  of  ihe  town.  The  island  is  poor,  estates  not 
cultivated,  because  the  produce  will  not  pay  ex- 
penses. Labor  is  high,  and  employment  in  the  city 
more  congenial  to  the  people  of  color.  The  cli- 
mate is  mild  and  their  wants  few,  and  they  prefer 
living  on  the  little  they  can  obtain  to  working  on 
the  plantations;  hence,  you  see  such  great  numbers 
of  women  selling  a  few  oranges,  bananas,  potatoes, 
and  other  fruits  and  vegetables  all  day  with  active 
industry.  In  the  evening  the  streets  are  lined 
with  men,  women,  boys,  and  girls,  of  all  colors, 
walking  for  recreation,  dressed  in  white,  with  flag 
handkerchiefs  around  their  heads,  gowns  trailing 
in  dust,  shoes  down  at  heel,  making  a  dreadful 
clatter  as  they  walk ;  they  talk  loud,  and  are  dis- 
turbing to  more  quiet  and  retiring  people.  The 
first  night  of  our  arrival,  we  supposed  there  was 
a  riot  in  the  streets  from  the  tumult  heard,  but 
on  inquiry  in  the  morning,  as  to  the  cause,  were 
told  it  was  their  custom  to  perambulate  the 
streets  every  night,  which  they  keep  up  until  near 
morning.  No  one  appeared  to  take  cognizance 
of  their  conduct,  as  it  seemed  to  us  they  were 
continually  under  fearful  apprehension. 

We   had  a  letter   of  introduction   to   Robert 


THE    GOVERNOR.  65 

Swift,  which  was  delivered,  and  he,  with  his 
daughter,  called  on  us  at  the  Commercial  Hotel, 
where  we  put  up.  Giles  W.  Smith,  the  Vice- 
Consul,  and  the  wife  of  the  Consul  (he  being  sick), 
having  heard  through  some  of  their  friends  of  our 
being  there,  soon  called  upon  us  and  offered  their 
services.  He  very  politely  introduced  us  to  the 
Governor  of  the  island  and  other  gentlemen,  in 
order  to  facilitate  our  prospect  to  hold  a  meeting 
in  that  place. 

The  Governor,  whose  name  is  Rachae,  is  a  very 
agreeable  and  polite  man,  granted  freely  all  we 
asked  relative  to  holding  meetings  in  the  houses, 
or  in  the  public  squares.  His  dwelling  stands  on  a 
beautiful  slope  fronting  the  sea,  but  like  all  places, 
at  least  most  we  have  ever  seen,  where  slavery 
once  existed,  looked  out  of  order,  not  well  kept, 
while  the  grounds  were  overgrown  with  weeds ; 
but  his  warm  and  generous  heart  more  than  pre- 
ponderated against  the  neglected  grounds  and 
careless  appearance  around  his  otherwise  beauti- 
ful home. 

The  great  number  of  ships,  continually  riding 
at  anchor  in  the  harbor,  adds  much  to  the  beauty 
of  the  natural  scenery,  which  in  itself  is  magnifi- 
cent.   The  shipping  hails  from  every  clime,  whose 


66  JOURNAL. 

inmates  do  much  to  enliven  the  hilarity  of  the 
winter  season  during  their  stay,  although  here 
they  have  no  winter  in  their  year.  Our  winter 
months  are  chosen  as  the  most  fitting  time  for 
strangers  to  tarry  on  this  or  any  other  of  the 
West  India  Islands,  in  consequence  of  yellow 
fever  and  other  contagions,  prevailing  when  the 
weather  is  warm  or  mild  in  Northern  latitudes. 
This  island  is  subject  to  dreadful  hurricanes, 
which  not  unfrequently  demolish  houses,  as  well 
as  contribute  to  the  loss  of  many  lives.  "When, 
and  by  whom,  St.  Thomas  was  first  settled,  cannot 
be  traced  with  any  certainty.  That  its  safe  and 
commodious  harbor  early  attracted  the  first  navi- 
gators of  the  Caribbean  Sea,  especially  the  Dutch, 
as  a  port  of  refuge,  or  place  of  repair  and  re- 
freshment, there  can  be  little  doubt.  About  that 
time  some  of  the  English  settled  at  St.  Croix.  In 
1625,  some  individuals  took  up  their  abode  at  St. 
Thomas,  the  superiority  of  the  harbor  over  any 
other  of  the  Caribbees,  confirmed  the  supposition. 
The  first  settlers  fled  from  Crab  Island,  to  escape 
death  from  the  hands  of  the  merciless  Spaniards, 
who  made  a  descent  on  that  island,  sparing  neither 
aged  women  or  children,  wherever  found.  Those 
who  found  refuge  on  the  Island  of  St.  Thomas, 


TOWERS.  67 

were  saved  from  a  cruel  death,  only  by  commit- 
ting their  frail  little  bark  to  the  mercy  of  the 
winds  and  waves,  not  knowing  whither  they  went. 
Here  they  found  there  had  been  a  settlement,  as 
oranges,  citrons,  4imes,  and  bananas  wrere  growing 
in  abundance. 

There  are  on  all  of  these  islands  an  infinite 
number  of  beautiful  land  and  sea  birds.  On  this 
island  there  is  but  little  good  soil,  wThich,  no 
doubt,  prevented  its  being  thickly  settled  for  a 
long  series  of  years.  It  is  the  general  opinion  of 
the  inhabitants  of  St.  Thomas,  that  the  island 
was  at  one  time  possessed  by  the  Buccaneers. 
Three  old  towers  are  within  the  walls  of  Fort 
Christian,  and  two  others  on  hills  north  and 
east  of  the  town,  which  gave  rise  to  this  idea. 
The  romantic  names  of  Black  Beard  and  also 
Beard's  Castles  have  been  given  to  the  towers  on 
the  hills,  being  so  pointed  out  to  strangers  that 
visit  the  island.  They  form  a  part  of  the  pic- 
turesque panorama  of  the  surrounding  scenery 
on  entering  the  harbor,  with  their  bold  outline 
against  the  sky,  with  the  lights  streaming  through 
their  embrasures ;  the  imagination  is  readily  at 
work,  busy  filling  up  a  view  of  this  pleasing  ef- 
fect  upon   the   mind.     The  tower  within  Fort 


68  JOURNAL. 

Christian,  according  to  tradition  on  the  island, 
was  there  when  the  Danes  took  possession  of  it, 
but  it  must  have  been  built  by  the  Dutch  in  1667. 
Some  now  say  they  were  built  by  the  Danes 
after  they  formed  in  a  colony,  and  were  in  peace- 
able possession  of  the  island.  Gorgen  Iverson 
was  the  first  Governor,  despatched  by  the  Golden 
Crown.  A  company  was  formed  called  the  Dan- 
ish West  India  and  Guinea  Company.  On  the 
sixteenth  of  March,  1667,  they  published  that  the 
directors,  six  in  number,  with  at  least  two  thou- 
sand rix  dollars  invested  in  the  company,  and  one 
hundred  rix  dollars  should  constitute  a  share- 
holder. They  now  began  to  make  their  laws. 
Every  person  who  speaks  Danish  is  bound  to  at- 
tend church  every.Sabbath  when  the  drum  beats, 
or,  on  failure,  to  pay  a  fine  of  twenty-five  pounds 
of  tobacco.  So,  we  see  the  law  of  force  prevailed 
even  among  those  isolated  people,  who  had  suf- 
fered greatly  from  others,  as  soon  as  the  power 
passed  into  their  own  hands.  Every  householder 
was  bound  to  encourage  his  servants  to  be  pious, 
and  have  morning  and  evening  prayers.  I  think 
this  last  must  have  been  a  more  difficult  task 
than  handing  over  the  tobacco.  Another  of  their 
laws  was,  when  the  drum  beats,  every  man  should 


WAR.  69 

apprise  his  neighbor,  that  all  might  be  in  readi- 
ness in  case  of  invasion.  If  in  the  night,  he  must 
fire  a  random  shot,  as  also  his  neighbor,  or  suffer 
a  severe  penalty.  But  really  I  cannot  see  that  we 
have  made  any  considerable  advance  on  this  point 
for  two  hundred  years ;  as  now,  the  laws  relating 
to  war,  offensive  or  defensive,  are  much  the  same 
as  in  that  early  day.  Genius,  in  bringing  out  in- 
ventions for  carrying  on  war  and  taking  life,  is  a 
thousand-fold  more  effective.  Calling  to  mind 
the  question  of  one  of  the  inspired,  to  the  people 
of  his  day,  "  Shall  the  sword  devour  forever!" 

"  Shall  strife  and  war  forever  reign, 
And  God's  fair  earth  be  stained 
"With  life's  blood  of  the  robust  youths, 
To  deeds  of  slaughter  trained  ? 

"  And  vengeful  passion  fire  the  soul, 

"Where  God's  pure  love  should  dwell ; 
And  earth  outdo,  in  sin  and  shame, 
The  clergy's  fabled  hell  ? 

"  While  cripples  hobble  o'er  the  earth, 
Aided  by  crutch,  or  cane, 
And  all  the  skies  seem  clothed  in  black, 
Mourning  the  early  slain  ? 


70  JOURNAL. 

"  And  pauper  houses  e'er  be  crammed 
With  victims  made  by  war, 
And  crimes  that  follow  in  its  train, 
Which  all  the  pure  abhor  ? 

"  And  courts  and  prisons  still  remain, 
To  crush  the  erring  soul, 
That  should  be  washed  at  wisdom's  fount, 
And  by  our  love  made  whole  ? 

"  And  man  deprave  his  fellow-man, 
In  hoarding  filthy  pelf, 
And  strong  ones  crush  the  poor  and  weak, 
In  greedy  gain  for  self? 

"  And  debts  by  millions  multiplied, 
Poor  toilers  to  enslave, 
And  change  by  force  the  honest  few 
To  murderer,  thief,  or  knave  ?" 

The  highly  gifted  Franklin  tells  us,  there  never 
was  a  good  war,  or  a  bad  peace. 

Take  away  the  sword;  states  can  be  saved 
without  it. — E.  Bulwer  Lytton. 

War  is  entirely  inefficient  towards  redressing 
wrong. — A.  L. 

I  hold  war  the  greatest  of  human  crimes. — Lord 
Brougham. 

War  suspends  every  idea  of  justice  and  human- 
ity.— M.  Wicker. 


LABORING     CLASSES.  71 

"War,  a  damnable  profession,  a  trade  of  barbar- 
ism.—  Charles  Sumner. 

"  If  we  believe  in  the  universal  brotherhood, 
and  acknowledge  the  Divine  law,  of  love  to  God 
and  man,  as  embodying  our  whole  Christian  duty, 
we  cannot  go  to  war,  or  encourage  others  to  en- 
gage in  it." 

But  I  have  digressed  far  from  my  subject-mat- 
ter, relating  to  our  introduction  to  the  Governor 
of  the  Island  of  St.  Thomas. 

"We  are  told  by  every  one  with  whom  we  con- 
versed, that  the  laboring  class  is  so  idle  that  they 
cannot  be  induced  to  work,  except  a  little  at  a 
time;  that  when  they  earn  a  few  dollars,  they  will 
take  a  rest  until  it  is  spent,  and  then  work  again ; 
that  great  inducements  had  been  offered  them  to 
work  on  the  plantations,  but  they  could  not  be 
induced  to  do  so.  Laboring  men,  who  work 
about  the  wharves  at  loading  and  unloading  ves- 
sels, can  do  tolerably  well  as  to  earning  a  liveli- 
hood, at  certain  periods;  but  when  the  hurry 
is  over,  they  have  nothing  to  do,  and  small 
pieces  of  land  have  been  offered  them,  at  a  mod- 
erate rent,  but  they  will  not  work  it,  when  they 
might  obtain  ready  sale  for  their  fruits  and  vege- 
tables.   They  cannot  be  induced  to  leave  the  city. 


72  JOURNAL. 

Hence  St.  Thomas  is  dependent  on  other  islands 
for  vegetables,  and  all  other  articles  of  food, — 
principally  St.  John  and  Tortola.  This  state- 
ment we  found  to  be  incorrect,  both  from  infor- 
mation derived  from  respectable  white  men,  as 
well  as  colored,  although  our  'informants  had 
not  intended  to  give  us  wrong  impressions.  As 
the  liberation  of  the  slaves  was  not  done  volun- 
tarily, but  through  insurrection,  they  have  never 
been  looked  upon,  as  far  as  we  could  learn,  as 
free  people,  save  by  the  Governor  of  the  island, 
and  there  appears  a  disposition  still  to  keep  them 
in  bondage.  The  small  prices  offered  them  for 
labor  on  the  plantations,  which  are  exceedingly 
hard  to  cultivate,  being  mostly  rocky  hillsides, 
or  on  the  tops  of  what  we  should  call  mountains, 
where  there  is  a  little  table-land,  is  not  sufficient 
to  procure  them  a  subsistence.  As  a  consequence, 
feeling  themselves  despised,  and  most  of  them  in 
abject  poverty,  they  seemed  to  care  little  how 
they  obtained  their  living,  whether  by  plunder 
or  otherwise,  although  there  are  many  exceptions 
to  this  rule.  The  country  is  so  unproductive,  the 
planters  care  little  whether  it  is  cultivated  or  not, 
— merchandise  and  other  business  being  far 
more   profitable. 


COLORED    PEOPLE.  73 

After  ascending  one  of  the  heights,  on  our 
return,  on  a  very  hot  morning,  we  met  a  number 
of  old  colored  people,  bowed  with  age,  leaning  on 
their  staffs,  endeavoring  to  ascend  the  mountain- 
top,  saying  they  were  going  there  to  work,  for 
which  they  would  receive  a  few  pennies.  They 
were  wretchedly  clad,  and  in  great  degradation. 
"We  stopped  them,  and  had  some  conversation 
with  them,  and  gave  them  a  little  money,  while 
we  deeply  deplored  their  condition.  All  this,  we 
were  satisfied,  might  have  been  otherwise,  and 
they  elevated  to  feel  their  manhood  and  woman- 
hood, had  justice  and  truth,  which  are  the  habi- 
tation and  throne  of  the  Almighty,  been  the 
guiding  star  of  the  people  who  had  long  held 
them  in  bondage.  Of  misery  and  wretchedness 
we  have  seen  a  great  amount,  as  well  as  on  the 
island  we  had  just  left,  where  oppression  and 
violence  reign.  There  is  ever  wasting  and  de- 
struction, and  we  were  satisfied  while  there,  that 
if  the  present  course  continues  to  the  freed 
people,  insurrections,  with  all  their  horrors,  will 
be  the  result,  as  oppression  is  said  to  make  "  the 
wise  man  mad."  So  wretched  and  miserable  a 
class  of  colored  people,  as  we  saw  everywhere  on 
this  island,  we  had  never  seen  before,  and  de- 

7* 


74  JOURNAL. 

moralization  seemed  to  us  without  a  parallel. 
One  lady,  who  lived  opposite  our  hotel,  from  one 
of  the  New  England  States,  who  had  been  re- 
siding there  for  a  long  time,  with  her  husband, 
whose  health  was  impaired,  told  us  they  could 
but  wonder  that  God  had  not  sunk  the  island  in 
the  bottom  of  the  sea,  long  before,  in  consequence 
of  the  wickedness  and  immoralit}'  of  the  people. 
But  we  wish  it  to  be  understood,  that  we  found 
exceptions  to  this  general  rule,  as  there  are  some 
worthy  and  excellent  people  on  the  island.  We 
need  not  ask  what  has  brought  about  this  state 
of  things.  The  judgment  of  every  thinking  in- 
dividual must  be  convinced  that  the  curse  of 
slavery  is  at  the  bottom  of  it  all;  that  its  deadly 
fangs  are  more  to  be  dreaded  than  the  most  poi- 
sonous viper.  The  coils  of  the  anaconda  or  boa 
constrictor  are  but  its  fit  emblems,  when  twined 
around  the  souls  and  bodies  of  the  defenceless. 
All  kinds  of  animals  have  been  tamed  but  man; 
his  tongue  is  described  as  full  of  deadly  poison, 
but  that  is  merely  the  outspeaking  of  his  soul, 
or  rather  his  animal  nature,  as  soul  he  has  but 
little,  for  that  is  his  humanity,  and  he  who  can 
bind  and  oppress   his   fellow-man,  laying  upon 


A     SLAVEHOLDER.  75 

him  heavy  burdens,  has  but  little  humanity  in 
his  breast. 

In  company  one  evening  with  a  man  from 
Porto  Rico  (which  we  did  not  learn  until  just  be- 
fore he  left),  we  had  a  long  conversation  on  the 
subject  of  slavery.  He  not  wishing  we  should 
know  where  he  belonged,  told  us  he  knew  much 
of  the  condition  of  slavery  on  that  island;  telling 
how  well  the  system  prospered;  that  the  slaves 
were  as  happy  as  birds;  that  they  were  fed  on 
the  best  of  food,  such  as  the  planters  eat;  and 
laid  up  a  great  deal  of  money;  that  five  men,  in 
a  few  years,  accumulated  three  thousand  dollars 
apiece,  which  their  master  held  in  trust,  they  not 
wishing  to  purchase  their  freedom  with  it.  They 
had  wives  and  children  on  the  plantation,  who 
were  happy  as  they ;  but  some  contagion  making 
its  appearance  on  the  island,  the  five  men  fell 
victims  to  the  disease.  The  money  the  owner  of 
the  slaves  had  held,  he  made  use  of  in  supplying 
their  places  with  other  slaves.  We  asked,  if  that 
was  a  correct  statement,  whether  he  thought  it 
was  just  in  the  man,  and  why  he  had  not  given 
their  families  their  liberty,  if  he  retained  the 
money?  His  answer  was,  "  They  would  not  have 
their  freedom,"  saying,  "a  woman  in  advanced 


76  JOURNAL. 

age  was  offered  her  freedom,  and  would  not  ac- 
cept it,  at  the  time,  saying,  '  Massa,  what  does  I 
want  of  freedom?  You's  alles  been  so  good  to 
me.  !No,  I  will  not  leave  you ;  I  wants  no  free- 
dom; you  may  keep  all  my  money.'"  We  told 
him,  admitting  all  he  said  to  be  true,  which  was 
entirely  unnatural,  "Did  it  not  plainly  show,  that 
by  being  downtrodden  and  oppressed,  they  had 
become  greatly  degraded,  and  that  the  cupidity 
of  the  white  man  had  subverted  the  laws  of  God, 
for  which  the  day  of  retribution  was  at  hand?" 
He  said,  "Madam,  I  think  it  is  time  for  me  to 
go,"  and  soon  bowed  himself  out,  giving  us 
sufficient  evidence,  before  he  left,  that  he  was  the 
very  man  who  had  perpetrated  the  foul  deed,  and 
given  so  vivid  a  description  of  the  blessings  of 
slavery,  which  he  had  been  narrating. 

15th.  Took  a  walk  around  the  hill,  and  pro- 
cured some  pieces  of  coral,  which  is  very  cheap 
about  this  island,  and  abundant  in  the  ocean. 
We  walked  for  a  long  way  on  the  sea-side,  before 
arriving  at  the  spot  where  a  great  variety  of 
corals  are  sold.  The  colored  people  dive  in  order 
to  procure  them,  and  mostly  pry  them  from  the 
rocks.  When  first  taken  from  the  water,  they 
are  stone  color,  but  on  being  exposed  to  rain  and 


CORALS.  77 

sun,  they  become  bleached  to  the  whiteness  of 
alabaster,  Avhile  many  of  the  beautiful  shells,  pro- 
cured in  the  same  way,  or  washed  up  on  the 
shores,  are  transparent  as  glass,  and  of  pure 
whiteness.  There  are  many  coral  reefs,  extend- 
ing out  in  the  sea.  After  bringing  the  corals  to 
the  shore,  the  most  delicate  of  many  varieties  of 
all  fantastic  figures  found  among  them  are  re- 
moved to  the  dwellings  of  the  divers,  where 
scaffolds  are  erected,  on  which  they  are  spread, 
and  exposed  to  rain  and  sun  until  of  dazzling 
whiteness;  the  coarser  and  less  delicate,  for 
bleaching,  are  left  on  the  shore.  It  is  a  splendid 
sight  to  look  over  the  many  varieties,  and  take 
account  of  their  perfect  symmetry,  of  every  im- 
aginable shape.  The  Queen  of  Conchs  is  a  shell 
of  surpassing  beauty.  One  was  brought  us,  just 
as  it  was  taken  from  the  ocean,  with  the  inhabi- 
tant and  rightful  owner  of  the  tenement  just 
within  the  door,  which  is  ever  ajar.  We  pur- 
chased it,  dwelling  and  all,  and  I  soon  set  myself 
to  work  to  eject  the  occupant,  but  he  was  a  great 
deal  stronger  than  we  supposed,  and  resisted  the 
invaders  of  his  right,  even  unto  death,  letting  us 
know  that  "his  house  was  his  castle,"  for  as  soon 
as  I  touched  the  skin  of  the  animal,  he  darted 


78  JOURNAL. 

like  lightning  into  the  deepest  recesses  of  his 
stronghold,  from  whence  no  entreaties,  or  threat- 
enings,  would  drive  him  forward,  save  by  plung- 
ing tenement  and  its  occupant  in  hot  water;  so 
that,  with  all  our  skill  set  to  work,  we  at  last  had 
to  resort  to  hanging ;  a  hard  fate,  but  the  only  re- 
sort left;  and  this  was  done  by  bending  a  strong 
wire,  so  as  to  penetrate  into  the  interior  of  the  ani- 
mal's dwelling,  which  caught  him  in  the  trap; 
but  I  think  he  hung  suspended  for  twenty-four 
hours,  before  he  let  go  his  hold  on  life,  which  he 
clung  to  with  the  greatest  tenacity.  This  animal 
is  near  the  size  of  a  man's  hand;  they  are  often 
used  for  the  table,  but  I  should  dispense  with 
them  for  food,  if  all  are  as  hard  to  procure  as 
this  one.  We  had  them  on  our  table ;  they  are 
like  the  hard  part  of  a  clam.  This  shell  is  of 
unusual  beauty,  having  the  tints  of  the  rainbow. 
We  purchased  many  other  varieties,  which  we 
brought  back  with  us  to  the  United  States,  being 
highly  prized,  and  of  much  value  here.  They 
are  as  much  admired  by  our  numerous  friends  as 
by  ourselves,  and  have  tended  to  beguile  many 
tedious  hours  of  loneliness  and  solitude,  since  my 
return ;  feeling  even  now,  while  preparing  this 
work  for  the  perusal  of  others,  that  I  seem  to  be 


REFLECTIONS.  79 

living  the  time  over  again;  but  not  with  the 
same  enlivening  pleasure,  as  when  I  wandered 
over  that,  and  many  other  islands,  in  company 
with  my  loved  and  honored  husband,  whose 
sweet  counsel  is  heard  no  more  on  earth ;  his  re- 
deemed spirit  having  gone  to  "that  land  where 
angels  only  dwell,  and  years  have  no  ending." 
His  cheerfulness  ever  contributed  to  keep  off  en- 
nui, or  depression,  even  when  I  was  an  invalid. 
Having  an  eye  for  the  beautiful  in  nature,  he  saw 
new  charms  in  every  scene,  as  well  on  the  "beau- 
tiful sea"  as  in  the  enchanting  verdure  of  the 
landscape  of  those  tropical  isles,  saying,  with  an 
inspired  poet  of  the  Seasons,  "'These,  as  they 
change,  Almighty  Father!  these  are  but  the 
varied  God ! '  Not  only  is  the  rolling  year  full 
of  Thee,  but  Thou  art  ever  present,  ever  felt;  and 
Thy  glory  on  the  broad  bosom  of  the  ocean,  as  in 
the  shadowy  vale !  Thy  goodness  and  Thy  love 
are  unconfined.  Thou  pourest  Thy  sunbeams 
o'er  this  world  of  ours,  while  we  poor  thought- 
less mortals  go  plodding  on,  boasting  ourselves 
of  to-morrow,  not  giving  ourselves  time  (at  least 
many  of  us),  to  reflect,  that  to-morrow's  sun  to 
us  may  never  rise." 

I  must  not  fail  to  remark  that  visitors,  who 


80  JOURNAL. 

take  up  their  abode  at  this  very  excellent  hotel, 
each  couple  have  a  steady  waiter  appointed,  on 
whom  they  can  call  at  all  times  for  everything 
they  wish,  whether  at  table,  in  the  drawing-room, 
or  their  own  chamber,  which  we  found  a  great 
luxury.  The  name  of  our  attendant  was  John 
Shilling,  a  kind-hearted,  generous  fellow,  ever 
ready  to  wait  on  us  with  the  nicest  fruits  of  the 
season,  as  well  as  choice  viands  at  the  table. 

My  dear  husband  and  self  were  delighted  with 
his  attentions,  often  giving  him  some  extra  coins. 
~No  one,  who  has  not  found  himself  far  from  his 
own  dear  native  land,  entirely  among  strangers,  can 
realize  the  pleasure  of  having  a  kind  heart  to  feel 
for,  and  willing  hand  to  perform  many  little  kind 
offices,  so  frequently  needful.  We  found  many 
other  people  of  color  on  that  island  kind,  polite, 
and  gentlemanly,  many  who  were  merchants  and 
shopkeepers  of  different  kinds,  merchant  tailors, 
and  others  engaged  in  different  employments,  the 
same  as  the  whites ;  but  caste  is  quite  as  observa- 
ble here  as  in  our  own  prejudiced  country.  In 
front  of  our  hotel  was  what  is  called  by  some  the 
Emancipation  Garden.  I  presume  the  land  was 
purchased  by  the  freed  people,  many  of  whom 
are  now  rich,  as  we  heard  little  or  nothing  said 


MOONLIGHT.  81 

about  it  by  the  whites.  It  consists  of  a  large  area 
of  ground,  inclosed  with  a  nice  picket  fence,  on 
the  border  of  the  sea,  grounds  laid  out  with  much 
good  taste,  containing  a  great  variety  of  exotic 
plants  and  shrubs,  with  many  ornamental  trees, 
covered  with  flowers  of  exquisite  beauty  as  well  as 
odoriferous  perfumes.  There  we  found  the  ipe- 
cacuanha tree,  from  which  we  procured  some  of 
the  pods,  of  great  size,  containing  the  seeds  from 
which  this  drug  is  made;  together  with  a  host 
of  flowers  and  plants  of  primal  beauty.  At  this 
hotel  we  had  a  grand  view  of  the  sea  and  harbor 
from  the  spacious  balcony  in  the  front  of  our 
house,  where  we  might  sit  at  all  times  and  enjoy 
the  sea-breezes,  and  spend  our  evenings  in  that 
charming  spot  when  the  full-orbed  moon  was 
pouring  forth  its  light  and  shadows.  It  was  a 
scene  of  surpassing  beauty!  The  shadows  of 
moonlight  are  exquisitely  beautiful  in  any  land, 
but  it  seemed  to  shine  on  this  beautiful  island 
with  more  than  usual  brightness. 


CHAPTER  VI. 

Keligious  Meetings— Santa  Cruz — Insurrections  in 
the  Islands. 

17th.  Fine  day;  though  there  is  no  calculating 
on  the  weather;  showers  spring  up  suddenly  even 
when  least  expected.  The  thermometer  ranges 
from  72°  to  80°,  yet  we  do  not  feel  the  heat,  when 
out  of  the  sun,  so  oppressive,  owing  to  constant 
breezes.  Feeling  our  minds  drawn  to  hold  a 
meeting  among  the  people,  the  proprietor  of  the 
hotel  kindly  offered  his  saloon,  which  was  capa- 
ble of  seating  a  large  number,  and  in  the  evening 
was  well  filled  with  white  and  colored,  large 
numbers  being  on  the  balcony,  and  in  passage- 
ways. The  hour  appointed  was  7J  o'clock,  and 
after  perfect  quiet  was  enjoined,  the  company 
was  addressed  for  half  an  hour  on  the  nature  of 
true  and  vital  religion — giving  a  brief  synopsis 
of  the  faith  of  the  Society  of  Friends,  and  what 
constituted  a  call  to  the  Gospel  ministry,  which 
was  proved  satisfactorily,  as  we  thought,  to  every 


RELIGIOUS     MEETINGS.  83 

unprejudiced  mind,  great  numbers  coming   for- 
ward  to  acknowledge  their  entire  approval. 

I  had,  at  the  commencement  of  the  discourse, 
told  them  how  rejoiced  we  felt,  on  leaving  the 
land  of  slavery  in  Cuba,  to  find  ourselves  on 
free  soil,  where  there  was  freedom  of  speech, 
freedom  of  thought,  freedom  of  the  press,  and 
where  all  classes  of  men  stood  upright,  realiz- 
ing their  manhood,  under  the  sacred  boon  of 
liberty;  and  mentally  cried  out  as  we  set  our 
foot  on  what  we  considered  free  soil,  "All  hail 
to  the  land  of  the  free !"  Then  stated  it  was 
slavery  and  oppression  that  had  involved  the 
greatest  country  in  the  world,  our  own  United 
States  of  America,  in  the  calamitous  war  now 
upon  us.  But  we  had  not  expected  to  find  a 
vestige  of  it  on  that  island,  or  a  sympathizer  with 
its  friends,  among  them ;  saying,  with  the  excep- 
tion of  that  foul  blot,  slavery,  in  the  United  States, 
its  benign  laws  excelled  all  others  on  the  globe. 
From  this,  Hicks  and  his  friends  took  umbrage, 
and  deserted  their  post,  all  the  rest  remaining 
quiet,  trying  to  draw  nearer  and  nearer  to  our 
standing-place.  At  the  conclusion,  a  meeting 
was  announced  for  the  day  following,  at  four 
o'clock,  at  Cocoanut  Square. 


84  JOURNAL. 

"We  went  according  to  appointment,  and  met  a 
very  large  number  of  all  classes  and  colors,  and 
I  had  not  stood  long  on  a  platform  erected  for 
the  purpose,  before  it  commenced  raining  fast ; 
we  were  under  the  necessity  of  dispersing,  as  we 
were  in  the  open  air,  but  first  announced  a  meet- 
ing at  the  same  hour  the  day  following,  at  the 
same  place,  nineteenth  of  the  month,  third  day. 

The  following  day  we  again  met  the  people ; 
numbers  having  increased,  the  square  was  liter- 
ally crowded.  We  trust  counsel  and  advice  was 
held  forth  suited  to  their  conditions,  and  at  the 
same  time  directing  their  attention  to  the  gift 
within,  that  would  teach  them  their  duty  to  their 
God,  and  to  each  other;  holding  out  the  great 
importance  to  the  white  people  of  making  use  of 
every  means  in  their  power  for  the  elevation  and 
enlightenment  of  the  emancipated ;  telling  them 
no  country  could  prosper  under  oppression ;  de- 
siring them  to  turn  their  attention  to  the  proper 
means  of  furnishing  them  with  suitable  labor; 
stating  the  statistics  of  what  was  being  done  in 
the  United  States  by  the  hands  of  laborers  in  the 
improvement  of  our  country,  and  cultivation  of 
our  soil,  some  parts  of  it  as  sterile  as  theirs, 
which  had  to  give  way  under  the  hand  of  indus- 


RELIGIOUS     MEETINGS.  85 

try,  and  was  made  now  to  blossom  as  the  rose ; 
the  iron  bands  of  our  railroads,  uniting  together 
North  and  South,  East  and  West;  that  we  had 
observed  much  labor  needful  to  be  performed 
on  that  island,  which  would  greatly  tend  to  ele- 
vate, and  work  a  wonderful  change  among  them; 
so  that  instead  of  the  colored  people  perambulat- 
ing the  streets,  both  day  and  night,  in  idleness 
and  immorality,  they  would  find  that  industry, 
sobriety,  and  temperance,  was  the  road  to  wealth 
and  distinction,  and  would  prepare  all  classes  to 
become  good  citizens.  No  fear  would  then  be 
entertained  of  insurrectionary  movements. 

After  an  hour  spent  in  giving  advice  of  this 
kind,  we  thought  it  best  to  close  the  opportunity, 
all  parties  appearing  well  satisfied,  shaking  hands 
until  we  were  weary.  We  took  a  walk  around 
the  town  this  morning,  and  ascended  one  of  the 
high  hills,  on  which  several  families  of  the  Levy's 
reside.  One  of  them,  seeing  us  strolling  along, 
invited  us  into  his  house,  and  showed  us  great 
kindness.  We  continued  our  walk  along  the  street 
at  the  side  of  the  Governor's  residence.  We  re- 
gretted to  see  it  so  much  neglected,  both  garden 
and  grounds  about  his  house.  We  passed  along 
and  were  joined  by  an  elderly  citizen,  who  con- 

8* 


86  JOURNAL. 

ducted  us  around  the  bills  into  the  lower  part  of 
the  town,  and  along  the  street  that  leads  into  the 
main  street  near  our  hotel.  It  was  a  pleasant 
walk,  and  gave  us  an  opportunity  of  seeing  much 
we  had  not  seen  before.  We  bad  previously 
walked  to  the  western  extremity,  where  the 
poorer  classes  of  colored  reside ;  they  are  crowded 
together  in  small  houses,  but  for  the  most  part, 
cleanly  fbr  the  class,  most  of  whom  were  decently 
clad. 

On  the  morning  of  the  twentieth,  at  five  o'clock, 
Captain  "Watlington  called  to  inform  us  he  would 
be  readv  to  sail  for  Santa  Cruz  at  nine  o'clock, 
but  that  Brenaman  and  JBidwell,  our  fellow-pas- 
sengers from  Havana,  had  disappointed  him,  by 
taking  passage  with  Captain  James.  He  seemed 
much  incensed,  but  according  to  their  representa- 
tion, without  cause.  He  kept  putting  us  off,  from 
hour  to  hour,  until  four  o'clock,  soon  after  which 
we  were  conducted  on  board  by  the  clerk  and 
waiter,  and  weighing  anchor,  got  under  way  a 
little  before  five  o'clock.  The  passage  was  six 
hours  and  a  few  minutes.  I  soon  became  ex- 
tremely seasick,  not  being  used  to  a  sailing  ves- 
sel, and  continued  so  the  whole  distance  of  sixty 
miles. 


SANTA    CRUZ.  87 

At  eleven  o'clock  p.  m.  we  landed,  but  the  cus- 
tom-house officer  would  not  let  us  take  anything 
away,  and  were  conducted  to  the  Widow  Foster's, 
on  Ocean  Street,  near  the  sea.  "We  went  imme- 
diately to  our  chamber,  which  was  poor  and  badly 
furnished. 

After  breakfast,  informed  the  hostess  we  had 
a  letter  for  Eliza  Arestrop,  and  if  we  liked  her 
apartments,  thought  we  would  reside  with  her. 
We  found  everything  more  to  our  wishes  at  her 
house,  more  comforts  and  more  suitable  com- 
pany, and  soon  had  our  baggage  brought  over. 
Dr.  Joseph  Shippen,  mother  and  sister,  Newton 
Baldwin,  and  ourselves,  constituted  the  company. 

21st.  We  feel  like  being  at  home.  Delivered 
our  letters  of  introduction  to  E.  Fry  and  mother, 
from  our  own  city,  Eliza  Arestrop,  William 
Wood,  I.  A.  Corea,  and  widow  of  Dr.  Smith. 
Dr.  Shippen  introduced  us  to,  a  person  by  the 
name  of  Dunlap,  a  grocer,  or  shipchandler  on 
the  wharf,  whose  store  was  the  coffee-house,  a 
place  of  resort  for  Americans.  Our  board  is 
ten  dollars  each  a  week.  We  breakfast  at  eight 
o'clock,  dine  at  two  o'clock,  and  sup  at  seven 
o'clock.  Our  dinners  were  abundant,  but  break- 
fast and  tea  ordinary.     They  seldom  had  butter 


88  JOURNAL. 

on  any  of  the  islands  that  we  could  eat;  but  the 
landlady  tries  to  please,  and  sets  a  good  table. 
We  felt  satisfied  she  did  all  in  her  power  to  make 
us  comfortable.  She  is  now  aged,  and  is  one  of 
the  aristocracy  of  the  island. 

22d.  The  people  have  heard  of  the  meeting 
that  was  held  at  St.  Thomas,  and  were  very  solic- 
itous we  should  hold  meetings  here,  and  our 
hostess  has  kindly  offered  her  parlor  and  dining- 
room  for  the  purpose. 

Before  announcing  our  wishes,  we  concluded 
to  call  on  the  Judge,  and  know  his  will,  so  that 
we  need  not  trespass  on  the  laws  of  the  land. 
We  found  him  a  true  democrat;  knew  no  dis- 
tinction of  color.  "  All  classes  of  citizens  are 
placed,"  said  he,  "  upon  the  same  footing."  He 
gave  his  entire  approbation  to  our  holding  meet- 
ings, when  and  where  we  pleased,  and  even 
suggested  the  yard  of  Eliza  Arestrop  as  being 
very  suitable  to  hold  a  quiet  meeting.  Prelimi- 
naries being  all  arranged,  word  was  given  out 
that  a  meeting  would  be  held  in  the  parlors  of 
Eliza  Arestrop,  at  seven  and  a  half  o'clock,  on 
first  day  evening,  the  twenty-fourth  instant,  if 
we  might  judge  by  the  expression  of  the  people, 
to  much  satisfaction.     A  large  number  gathered, 


INSURRECTION.  89 

but  some  were  highly  indignant  at  remarks  that 
were  made,  as  at  St.  Thomas,  relative  to  emanci- 
pation, telling  us,  after  the  meeting,  that  they 
were  liberated  only  through  insurrection,  and 
would  still  be  far  better  off  in  slavery,  at  that 
time;  that  it  had  only  tended  to  make  them  a  set 
of  lazy,  lounging  loafers,  and  had  deprived  them, 
the  whites,  of  their  property,  which  the  govern- 
ment of  Denmark  had  no  right  to  do ;  that  be- 
fore emancipation  was  proclaimed  they  were  a 
happy  people;  but  since,  the  most  aristocratic 
among  them  have  been  reduced  to  poverty. 
They  censured  the  Governor  very  highly,  who 
made  the  proclamation,  and  said  he  would  have 
lost  his  life,  in  consequence  of  the  indignation 
of  the  people,  had  he  not  fled  from  the  island ; 
giving  us  a  synopsis  of  the  horrors  of  the  scene 
during  the  time  the  insurrectionists  were  peram- 
bulating that  town,  as  well  as  others  on  the 
island,  which  was  horrible  in  the  extreme. 

The  three  islands,  St.  Thomas,  St.  John,  and 
St.  Croix,  as  we  have  seen,  were  successively  col- 
onized by  the  Danes;  supplied  with  slaves,  im- 
ported by  the  Danish  West  India  and  Guiana 
Company,  from  the  coast  of  Africa.  This  sup- 
ply was,  at  a  very  early  period  in  the   history 


90  JOURNAL. 

of  the  colonies,  greater  than  at  the  present 
time.  A  very  large  number  were  of  the  most 
savage  character.  '  When  all  the  islands  had 
been  supplied,  they  numbered  together  over 
thirty-one  thousand.  To  subdue  them  to  bond- 
age, and  compel  them  to  labor,  led  to  the  most 
rigorous  measures.  Life  and  limb  were  often 
sacrificed,  that  order  might  be  maintained,  and 
refractory  spirits  overcome.  At  first,  almost  un- 
limited power  was  held  by  masters  over  them. 
By  degrees,  the  government  restricted  this  power, 
and  as  civilization  advanced  placed  the  slaves 
under  more  humane  laws.  But  little,  however, 
had  been  done  to  bring  them  under  the  hallowed 
influence  of  Christianity,  except  by  pious  colo- 
nists. That  the  islands  reaped  a  great  advantage 
from  the  improved  character  of  these  slaves, 
there  can  be  no  doubt.  After  this,  there  were 
certain  laws  enacted,  relative  to  the  bondage  of 
children;  that  at  the  age  of  twelve  years  it 
should  entirely  cease.  It  produced  little  or  no 
demonstrations  of  joy  when  this  was  made 
known;  discontent  was  rather  manifested,  and 
soon  an  insurrection  was  plotted.  They  felt 
more  anxious  than  ever  for  the  sweets  of  free- 
dom.     As   their   concerted   plan   was   adopted, 


INSURRECTION.  91 

great  numbers  joining  with  them,  it  astonished 
the  people  it  had  not  been  more  extensively  di- 
vulged. But  few,  if  any,  of  the  planters  or 
citizens  had  the  least  knowledge  of  its  existence; 
it  was  known,  however,  to  some  officers  of  the 
government,  and  warnings  had  been  written  from 
Tortola. 

Seventh  month  second,  ushered  in  the  Sabbath 
morning  of  the  commencement  of  the  insurrec- 
tion, with  its  usual  quietness  and  peace.  To- 
wards evening  a  commotion  was  visible,  but  few 
felt  any  uneasiness.  Simultaneously,  alarms  rang 
out  from  many  estates,  at  the  given  signal,  and 
as  these  alarms  spread  out  from  every  part  of 
the  island,  consternation  and  uproar,  tumult  and 
terror,  spread  on  all  sides;  fear,  in  its  most  bitter 
form,  seized  upon  the  minds  of  the  inhabitants 
of  Frederickstadt  and  the  estates  contiguous,  and 
many  rushed  immediately  to  the  shipping  lying 
in  the  harbor.  Some  of  the  inhabitants  applied 
to  the  authorities  to  resist  with  military  force, 
but  were  refused.  The  night  was  one  of  horror; 
terror  conjectured  the  worst  consequences,  but 
no  violence  was  offered  during  the  night  to  per- 
sons or  property,  as  its  sleepless  hours  passed. 
A  message  was   despatched,  with  all  haste,  to 


92  JOURNAL. 

Governor  Vail  Scholter,  informing  him  of  the 
insurrection,  and  requesting  his  immediate  pres- 
ence. At  eight  o'clock,  on  the  morning  of  the 
third,  about  two  thousand  negroes  came  into  the 
town,  armed  with  various  weapons.  They  went 
directly  to  the  fort,*  and  demanded  their  free- 
dom, but  were  told  that  no  one  there  had  au- 
thority to  grant  their  request. 

Their  number  had  now  increased  to .  three 
thousand,  and  their  passions  becoming  greatly 
inflamed,  they  proceeded  to  the  destruction  of 
property.  The  police  offices  and  judge's  house 
were  completely  sacked,  and  documents  of  great 
importance  destroyed,  or  scattered  to  the  four 
winds.  They  now  became  more  violent,  and  de- 
clared if  their  freedom  was  not  proclaimed  by 
four  o'clock,  they  would  burn  the  town,  which 

*  This  fort  is  a  formidable  structure,  standing  on  the  border 
of  the  sea,  in  the  town  of  Frederickstadt,  where  a  large  num- 
ber of  soldiers  are  stationed ;  but,  in  this  case,  they  could  do 
nothing.  The  people  were  desperate ;  being  driven  to  mad- 
ness. I  could  but  picture  to  my  mind's  eye  their  oppressed 
condition  to  be  our  own,  we  cannot  tell  what  measures  we 
might  resort  to,  to  gain  our  liberty,  which,  with  many,  is 
dearer  than  life  itself.  In  their  fury  they  tore  up  the  whip- 
ping-post, which  same  thing  we  could  have  done,  and  attach  no 
blame  to  them  for  so  doing. 


FREEDOM    PROCLAIMED.  93 

they  had  entirely  in  their  possession,  since  the 
commencement  of  the  insurrection.  The  very 
worst  consequences  were  apprehended,  if  they 
should  be  resisted.  A  citizen,  whom  we  know 
well,  who  fled  to  the  fort  for  protection,  impru- 
dently made  some  remarks,  which  exasperated 
them.  They  immediately  proceeded  to  his  house 
and  store,  and  laid  everything  waste.  The  Gov- 
ernor soon  arrived  and  entered  the  fort;  a  great 
crowd  of  negroes  had  now  gathered  around  the 
walls.  Intense  anxiety  prevailed  on  every  hand; 
the  commander  of  the  fort  repeatedly  asked 
for  orders.  At  length,  to  the  amazement  of 
the  officers  and  citizens,  freedom  was  proclaim- 
ed from  the  ramparts,  by  the  Governor,  to  all 
slaves  in  the  Danish  "West  India  Islands,  which 
the  slaves  could  not  believe.  The  third  night 
a  band  of  negroes  attempted  to  enter  the  town, 
about  ten  o'clock.  Efforts  were  made  to  pre- 
vent them;  they  were  ordered  back  by  the  of- 
ficers; not  obeying,  a  blank  cartridge  was  fired; 
still  pressing  on  in  the  most  daring  and  dis- 
orderly manner,  grape-shot  was  at  length  poured 
in  their  ranks,  killing  several,  and  wounding 
many.  One  of  the  inhabitants  told  us  she  saw 
from  the  ship  on  which  she  had   been   placed, 

9 


94  JOURNAL. 

fragments  of  bodies  flying  in  the  air,  when  they 
were  fired  on.  They  all  now  fled,  and  gave  up 
their  attempt  upon  the  place.  The  following 
night  was  one  of  greater  horror  than  those  pre- 
vious. Fires  were  everywhere  visible,  lighting 
up  the  very  heavens.  They  had  the  entire  pos- 
session of  the  island,  except  the  fort.  Most  of 
the  women  and  children  had  been  conveyed  to 
the  shipping  in  the  harbor.  It  was  expected  the 
slaves  would  plunder  all  the  houses,  and  murder 
the  inhabitants.  In  the  country,  however,  the 
greatest  disorder  prevailed,  and  on  many  estates 
destruction  was  the  result. 

On  the  morning  of  the  fourth  the  startling  in- 
telligence was  announced  of  the  insurrection  of 
St.  Thomas,  and  they  were  compelled  to  proclaim 
freedom  at  once,  in  the  public  streets,  at  the 
drum-head.  A  crowd  of  women  and  boys  fol- 
lowed the  drum,  and  shouted  and  danced  inerriry. 
It  was  received  on  the  plantations  in  the  most 
quiet  manner,  and  all  continued  their  work. 

This  was  the  case,  too,  at  St.  Croix;  but  they 
were  afterward  under  great  alarm  at  the  latter 
place,  requesting  the  militia  from  St.  Thomas  to 
come  on,  and  sent  to  Porto  Rico  for  Spanish 
troops,  as  well  as  to  an  English  man-of-war  lying 


INSURRECTION.  95 

in  the  harbor  of  St.  Thomas.  Troops  went  on, 
and  found  them  in  great  disorder,  but  were  not 
marched  out, — the  Governor  having  gone  on 
with  them  from  St.  Thomas.  The  next  day, 
without  the  orders  of  the  Governor,  they  were 
marched  out,  and  the  insurrection  was  quelled; 
but  not  until  all  the  troops  were  procured 
from  the  two  islands,  as  well  as  Spanish  troops, 
numbering  five  hundred  infantry,  with  a  division 
of  sappers  aud  miners,  and  two  pieces  of  ord- 
nance. 

/  The  island  now  presented  the  most  desolate 
appearance;  great  destruction  of  property  and 
loss  of  life.  The  Governor  immediately  left  the 
island  for  Denmark.  That  the  slaves  did  not  do 
greater  violence,  is  the  wonder  of  the  greater  part 
of  the  inhabitants,  both  in  the  destruction  of 
property  and  sacrifice  of  the  lives  of  the  people, 
as  they  held  at  their  mercy  all  that  was  possessed 
on  the  island,  and  had  in  their  hands  abundant 
means  to  inflame  their  passions,  to  promote 
rapine  and  murder.  A  good  degree  of  order 
aud  quiet  was  eventually  effected  by  the  Spanish 
troops.  Finding  the  emancipated  slaves  were 
many  of  them  not  inclined  to  labor  on  the  plan- 


96  JOURNAL. 

tations  for  the  small  pittance  of  from  four  to  ten 
cents  a  day,  with  one  salt  herring  and  a  quart  of 
meal,  the  planters  considered  this  the  great  diffi- 
culty to  be  overcome. 

This  is  where  the  difficulty  lies  in  all  the  West 
India  Islands.  The  owners  of  the  plantations  are 
not  willing  to  pay  the  people  for  their  labor,  let 
them  toil  hard  as  they  may.  Twenty  cents  per 
day  would  insure  laborers  sufficient  to  do  all  the 
work,  without  the  importation  of  Coolies,  whom 
they  impose  on  to  the  greatest  extent.  There 
would  be  no  cry,  "  The  people  are  idle,"  were  it 
not  that  covetousness  and  cupidity  bring  about 
this  state  of  things.  They  had  been  receiving 
the  labor  and  life's  blood  of  that  poor  oppressed 
people,  without  any  remuneration  save  the  salt 
herring  and,  as  they  told  us,  musty  corn-meal. 
No  wonder  the  people  would  not  work,  although 
we  advised  them  to  labor  for  the  smallest  pit- 
tance, rather  than  live  in  idleness.  The  same  cry 
of  idleness  and  indifference  to  labor  is  at  this 
time  being  proclaimed  by  planters  in  the  South, 
in  our  own  country,  but  with  no  more  truth 
than  in  the  West  Indies.  The  labor  of  the  freed 
people  is  coveted  in  the  still  would-be  Slave 
States,  without  any  more  compensation  than  be- 


SLAVERY.  97 

fore  they  were  proclaimed  free;  and  this  iniqui- 
tous practice  is  being  resorted  to  wherever  the 
people  of  color,  once  in  bondage,  and  being 
ignorant  of  their  rights,  are  too  defenceless  to 
stand  up  like  men.  But  we  have  a  Congress  of 
invincibles,  who  seem  bound  to  protect  them  at 
all  hazards. 

I  heard  a  thrilling  lecture  not  long  since,  de- 
livered by  General  O.  0.  Howard.  His  remarks 
on  the  cruelty  of  the  planters  towards  this  "  rob- 
bed and  spoiled  people,"  gave  full  confirmation 
of  their  daily  tragical  and  cruel  treatment,  even 
at  this  late  period  of  their  emancipation.  The 
same  cause  will  ever  produce  like  effect  in  any 
country.  What  a  blessing  it  would  prove  to  all 
classes,  on  those  islands,  if  some  like  those  al- 
luded to  in  our  country,  stood  up  boldly  for  the 
rights  of  the  defenceless,  regardless  of  fear  or 
favor;  free  from  covetousness  and  undue  love 
of  money,  which  is  said  to  be  the  root  of  all 
evil. 

On  the  twenty-ninth  of  seventh  mo.,  1849,  or- 
dinances were  passed  to  compel  all  to  resume 
work,  and  restrain  laborers  from  leaving  the  es- 
tates ;  with  many  other  stringent  laws  imposed 
upon   them;    but   it   did   not   prove    successful. 

9* 


98  JOURNAL. 

The  people  had  got  a  taste  of  freedom,  and 
thought  they  were  free,  and  would  not  consent  to 
be  again  enslaved.  The  government  of  Denmark 
paid  one  hundred  dollars  per  head  for  every  slave 
that  had  been  emancipated  on  the  island ;  many 
believed  it  to  be  ruined  ;  others  hoped  all  would 
yet  be  well.  At  St.  Thomas  the  most  cruel  meas- 
ures were  resorted  to,  to  compel  them  to  work. 
The  heart  sickened  at  the  constant  use  of  the 
whipping-post;  but  the  people  thought  that  bet- 
ter than  to  allow  those  to  stand  up  as  men,  whose 
elevation  and  manhood  it  was  then  in  their  power 
to  promote,  and  who  should  have  acted  as  a 
father  to  his  child  when  not  able  to  walk  alone. 
Another  Governor,  by  the  name  of  Hansen,  was 
sent  over,  who  was  to  act  for  the  three  islands,  St. 
Thomas,  St.  Croix,  and  St.  John.  He  found  the 
ordinance,  passed  by  the  people,  did  not  work 
well,  and  accordingly  they  all  again  assembled, 
and  by  mutual  consent,  with  the  sanction  of  the 
Governor,  passed  laws,  which  were  sanctioned 
by  the  Danish  government,  which,  we  think,  are 
as  oppressive  as  the  first ;  and  when  found  to  be 
less  so,  by  the  planters  or  their  agents,  as  far  as 
we  ascertained  by  the  slaves  themselves,  they  fell 
back  upon  the  old  code,  if  unsuccessful  with  the 


WAGES.  99 

latter.  Heavy  penalties  were  annexed  to  their 
slightest  omission  of  duties.  Their  first  engage- 
ment is  for  a  year,  together  with  all  their  children 
included,  between  the  ages  of  five  and  fifteen 
years,  and  other  relatives  who  are  remaining  with 
them.  The  contract  is  made  in  writing;  the  use 
of  a  house,  or  dwelling-rooms,  built  and  repaired 
by  the  estate,  but  to  be  kept  in  order  by  the 
laborers.  The  use  of  a  piece  of  ground  thirty 
feet  square,  for  a  first-class  and  second-class  la- 
borer. If  it  be  standing  ground,  which  we  think 
is  that  of  the  poorest  quality,  fifty  feet.  Third- 
class  laborers  are  not  entitled  to  any,  but  it  may 
be  allowed  by  the  employer.  Wages  at  the  rate 
of  fifteen  cents  per  day  to  every  first-class  labor- 
er; second-class,  ten  cents;  third-class,  five  cents 
only.  When  the  usual  allowance  of  meal  and 
herring  has  been  furnished,  full  weekly  allowance 
shall  be  taken  by  the  employer,  for  five  cents  a 
day,  or  twenty-five  cents  a  week.  No  attach- 
ment of  wages,  for  private  debts,  to  be  allowed ; 
not  more  than  two-thirds  to  be  deducted  for 
debts  on  the  estate,  unless  otherwise  ordered  by 
the  magistrate. 

Let  me,  for  a  moment,  take  time  to  be  allowed 
to  ask  the    question,  Are  these  freed  people,  to 


100  JOURNAL. 

whom  liberty  was  proclaimed  by  the  Governors 
of  the  islands,  and  sanctioned  by  the  King  of 
Denmark?  If  so,  why  those  oppressive  laws 
over  the  weak  and  hitherto  downtrodden  slaves? 
If  this  is  freedom,  who  could  desire  it?  But  it 
is  working  in  the  "West  Indies  just  as  it  will  in 
our  Southern  States, — as  insurrections  will  break 
out  everywhere  under  the  same  treatment  and 
discipline.  The  late  insurrection  at  Jamaica  is 
but  an  example  of  what  the  other  islands  will  be. 
We  are  well  acquainted  with  the  houses  or 
dwelling-rooms  of  which  they  speak,  being  small 
stone  huts,  with  ground  floor,  and  one  or  two 
little  contracted  windows.  The  piece  of  ground 
is  generally  in  front,  which  they  (the  slaves)  told 
us  was  trampled  down  so  hard  they  could  not 
cultivate  it;  and  some  that  had  the  fifty  feet,  in 
the  interior,  told  us,  as  soon  as  they  had  brought 
it  to  a  state  capable  of  producing,  the  employers 
said  they  would  give  them  other  plots,  requiring 
theirs  for  very  particular  uses.  The  third-class 
laborers  are  not  entitled  to  any.  Now,  if  this 
class  be  the  most  inefficient,  and  the  least  able  to 
procure  subsistence  by  their  labor,  what  are  they 
to  do?  The  five  cents  per  day  merely  pays  for 
the  meal  and  herring ;  how  are  they  to  procure 


WAGES.  101 

clothing,  or  any  of  the  necessaries  of  life  ?  What 
are  they  to  do  when  sick?  We  saw  no  pro- 
vision made  for  them  anywhere,  except  at  St. 
Thomas,  and  we  presume  very  little  was  done  for 
them  there.  "What  has  the  first-class  laborer  left 
after  he  has  paid  twenty-five  cents  per  week  out  of 
his  fifteen  cents  per  day?  He  has  but  fifty  cents 
for  his  week's  work,  for  the  clothing  of  himself 
and  family,  and,  it  may  be,  sick  and  aged  among 
them,  who  must  endure  great  privation  and  suf- 
fering as  a  consequence.  And  the  second-class 
laborer  is  still  worse  off, — the  herring  and  meal 
of  itself  absorbing  just  half  his  wages.  What 
tyranny!  what  usurpation  !  They  talk  of  redress 
for  grievances  through  the  magistrate,  or  judge; 
but  they  are  not  allowed  to  leave  the  plantations ; 
and  if  they  were,  supposing  the  magistrate  takes 
part  with  the  planters,  where  are  they  to  find 
redress?  In  consequence  of  this,  large  numbers 
of  them  will  not  work  on  the  plantations;  they 
had  rather  spend  their  time  in  almost  any  other 
way  to  procure  a  subsistence,  as  the  labor  is  ex- 
cessively hard,  under  a  tropical  sun,  and  after  all, 
they  receive  next  to  nothing  for  it, — the  proprie- 
tors of  the  soil  then,  as  at  this  time,  designing  to 
make  their  labor  as  remunerative  to  themselves, 


""BESBE"- 


102  JOURNAL. 

as  when  in  slavery.  The  sick,  infirm,  and  aged 
persons,  shall  be  attended  to  where  they  are 
domiciled,  by  their  nearest  relatives.  No  pa- 
rents, or  children  of  such  infirm  persons,  shall 
remove  from  an  estate,  leaving  them  behind, 
without  making  provision  for  them  to  the  owner 
or  magistrate.  I  ask,  in  the  name  of  humanity, 
how  they  are  to  make  it?  Could  any  law  be 
more  oppressive?  But  would  not  all  our  South- 
ern, as  well  as  Northern,  advocates  of  this  unjust 
system,  willingly  do  the  same  thing,  and  bring 
about  a  second  advent  of  the  horrible  and  inhu- 
man system  of  slavery,  of  which  poverty  of  lan- 
guage is  not  capable  of  setting  forth  to  the  full? 
We  must  be  on  the  spot. to  realize  its  cruelty; 
we  must  mingle  and  enlist  our  sympathies  in  the 
cause  of  the  oppressed,  before  we  can  know  what 
they  suffer.  For  all  this  we  had  a  fair  opportu- 
nity, eighteen  months  since,  of  many  long  months' 
sojourn  on  most  of  the  West  India  Islands. 


CHAPTER  VII. 

Frederickstadt — St.  Croix — Vice  and  Immorality. 

The  town  of  Frederickstadt  is  prettily  situated 
on  the  sea.  When  the  easterly  winds  prevail 
that  hlow  over  the  island,  the  sea,  for  two  or  three 
miles  out,  is  calm  like  a  river ;  but  when  north 
and  west  winds  prevail,  it  is  difficult  for  vessels 
to  ride  at  anchor  near  the  shore,  the  sea  at  times 
being  tremendous.  The  main  street  is  along  the 
seaside,  and  open  to  it,  half  a  mile  long,  sparsely 
built  on,  a  few  blocks,  and  then  an  occasional 
house.  The  streets  running  from  the  sea  east  are 
mostly  built  upon.  The  houses  are  built  with 
stone  basements, and  wood  above, making  a  two- 
story  building;  a  few  are  three-stories.  They 
are  so  constructed  as  to  let  the  air  pass  con- 
stantly through  every  apartment;  a  few  have 
glass  windows ;  some  Venetian  blinds  or  shutters. 
There  is  very  little  business  done  here.  There 
is  an  arsenal  and  fort,  post-office,  and  residence 
of  the  judge,  whose  name  is  Sallow,  a  Dane  by 
birth,    and   who   speaks    broken   English.'     We 


104  JOURNAL. 

found  him  liberal,  and  disposed  to  recognize  the 
liberty  and  equality  of  men. 

The  people  are  mostly  poor,  and  the  lower 
class  in  a  wretched  condition ;  in  consequence  of 
having  no  labor  to  perform,  their  habits  have  be- 
come idle  and  vicious.  But  the  whites  are  con- 
sidered far  more  in  fault  than  the  liberated  slaves, 
as  firstly  the  tendency  of  slavery  is  always  down- 
ward, and  its  every  feature  calculated  to  produce 
vice  and  immorality,  equally  among  the  whites 
as  the  people  of  color,  as  the  term  morality  is 
scarcely  recognized  on  the  islands.  What  has 
done  all  this  but  slavery  ?  Slavery  in  its  first  and 
second  advent. 

We  spent  ten  weeks  on  this  Island  of  St.  Croix, 
and  should  we  bring  before  the  view  of  the  reader 
all  the  misery,  wretchedness,  and  debauchery  we 
have  seen  during  our  lives,  it  could  bear  no  com- 
parison to  what  we  saw  on  the  Island  of  St.  Croix 
alone.  Although  we  were  told  in  Havana,  where 
slavery  exists  in  its  worst  form,  that  we  would 
find  St.  Croix  a  delightful  and  quiet  retreat  for 
invalids,  and  as  I  was  one  who  required  such  a 
spot,  my  song  was  on  our  arrival,  "All  hail  to 
the  land  of  the  free !" 

We"  soon  found  the  tone  of  our  impressions 


FREDERICKSTADT.  105 

and  feelings  were  greatly  changed ;  that  instead 
of  its  being  quiet,  it  is  nothing  short  of  confu- 
sion, both  night  and  day,  with  quarrels,  swearing, 
whipping  children  without  mercy ;  husbands  and 
wives  fighting,  the  screams  almost  continually 
being  heard  of  one  class  or  other,  as  if  Bedlam 
had  broken  loose,  and  the  inmates  were  having  a 
jubilee, — all  which  is  to  be  attributed  entirely  to 
the  great  injustice  of  the  whites,  in  not  being 
willing  to  pay  them  for  their  labor.  A  great 
part  of  the  islands  lie  uncultivated  because  of 
this.  As  a  consequence  they  run  into  all  kinds 
of  excesses.  The  better  class  among  them  especi- 
ally mechanics,  do  rise,  aud  break  through  every 
obstruction,  considerable  numbers  of  them  being 
very  well  off  and  respectable.  We  were  often 
kept  awake  until  a  late  hour  of  the  night  by  these 
sounds.  We  concluded  if  this  was  considered  a 
fine  place  for  invalids  (except  the  delightful  at- 
mosphere), they  must  have  stronger  nerves  than 
ours  for  such  endurance.  Until  we  found  this 
course  of  things  was  perpetual,  we  could  but 
think  every  night  there  must  be  an  uprising.  It 
was  nothing  unusual  for  us,  when  we  sat  down 
to  our  meals,  to  have  a  serious  alarm  before  we 
got  half  through,  either  from  the  street  or  small 

10 


106  JOURNAL. 

houses  near  us.  Not  unfrequently  has  myself,  or 
dear  husband,  left  our  meals  to  go  and  see  what 
was  the  matter,  to  remonstrate  against  their  con- 
duct, and  pour  oil  on  the  troubled  waters.  Daily 
we  walked  the  streets  of  Frederickstadt,  endeav- 
oring to  exert  all  our  influence  for  the  benefit  of 
both  whites  and  colored,  holding  meetings  among 
them  whenever  we  could  procure  a  building,  for 
the  purpose  of  giving  them  counsel  on  morality 
and  industry,  and  for  which  they  seemed  very 
grateful,  saying  they  would  work  if  they  were 
paid  for  it;  that  twenty  cents  per  day  would 
satisfy  all  their  demands,  and  they  could  live  on 
that;  which  was  confirmed  by  an  agent  on  one  of 
the  plantations,  as  well  as  by  many  others. 

The  land  being  exceedingly  rich  and  produc- 
tive, with  an  ordinary  amount  of  labor,  the  whole 
island  under  cultivation,  would  pour  into  the  laps 
of  all  classes,  millions  of  the  staples.  They  now 
continually  complain  of  having  such  small  yields 
from  their  great  plantations,  or  estates  as  they 
call  them.  "  Short  crops  "  is  the  household  lam- 
entation everywhere;  but  why?  was  our  oft-re- 
peated interrogation.  When  the  invariable  an- 
swer was,  "  The  people  are  idle ;  they  will  not 
work."     We  ever  had  a  ready  answer,  that  their 


FREDERICKSTADT.  107 

statement  had  been  proved  incorrect,  as  we  found 
they  all  wished  to  work,  but  they  expected  to  be 
paid  for  it,  which  the  owners  of  estates  would 
not  do.  As  a  consequence,  their  land  is  not  half 
tilled  on  this  island,  and  that  portion  which  is, 
but  very  poorly.  Hence  the  idleness,  poverty, 
and  wretchedness  of  the  people,  great  immorali- 
ties following  in  their  train. 

We  not  unfrequently,  in  our  ramblings,  made 
our  calculations,  what  an  enormous  income  would 
arise  from  the  right  kind  of  culture  in  charge  of 
men  who  should  enlist  all  their  energies  in  such 
an  enterprise,  making  it  a  company  concern,  al- 
lowing each  laborer  an  interest  in  the  laudable 
engagement,  as  Horace  Greeley  once  did,  and 
perhaps  now  does,  with  his  journeymen  printers. 
All  then  would  be  equally  interested,  all  anxious 
to  see  how  much  they  could  accomplish,  being 
ambitious  to  rise.  Such  a  philanthropic  measure 
would  do  more  towards  the  elevation  of  the  peo- 
ple of  those  islands,  both  white  and  colored,  than 
all  the  missionaries  or  clergy  that  have  been 
paid  for  their  services  among  them  for  the  last 
two  hundred  years.  The  people  demand  justice, 
but  it  is  not  granted ;  and  the  clergy  can  only  tell 


108  JOURNAL. 

them  to  submit  to  their  degradation  in  silence; 
but  this  they  will  not  do. 

We  felt  it  our  duty  to  labor  with  the  whites, 
rather  than  the  people  of  color,  relative  to  the 
state  of  society,  as  well  as  the  impoverished  con- 
dition of  that  island,  and  all  others  we  visited ; 
which  we  greatly  desired  might  prove  useful  to 
them,  as  the  remedy  lies  almost  exclusively  with 
the  whites,  whose  avarice  and  cupidity  are  too 
conspicuous  not  to  speak  for  itself.  It  stands 
out  on  every  hand,  seen  by  each  passer-by.  The 
change  so  much  desired,  if  ever  effected,  we  felt 
assured  must  be  commenced  and  entered  into  by 
them. 

The  weather  was  very  hot  at  midday,  and  my 
weak  state  would  not  admit  of  my  being  out 
much  at  that  time.  I  arose  at  an  early  hour,  and 
went  over  different  parts  of  the  town.  The  col- 
ored people,  of  the  class  before  described,  had 
crawled  out  from  their  hiding-places,  from  old 
dilapidated  shanties,  cellars,  or  hovels,  of  which 
there  is  a  goodly  number.  The  exhibition  daily 
presented  was  appalling.  Their  clothing  was  a 
mass  of  rags,  dirty  and  filthy  in  every  respect ; 
some  of  the  children  in  a  state  of  nudity,  and  most 
of  them  but  little  better  off.    Their  practices  in  the 


DEGRADATION    OF    THE    PEOPLE.         109 

centre  of  the  streets  too  revolting  to  set  forth, 
and  which  often  prevented  me  from  inviting  my 
dear  husband  to  walk  out  with  me  in  the  morn- 
ing. As  usual,  they  were  always  wrangling  and 
bringing  accusations  against  each  other,  while  I 
oft  used  efforts  to  calm  the  fury  of  their  tempers, 
and  was  sometimes  successful.  I  saw  at  a  short 
distance,  and  heard  one  morning  the  impreca- 
tions of  a  woman  to  a  man  in  her  shanty,  who, 
she  said,  had  stolen  some  of  her  little  earnings. 
She  rushed  out  of  her  wretched  abode  to  call  a 
policeman,  the  man  declaring  he  was  innocent. 
I  begged  her  to  wait  a  little,  and  make  further 
investigation,  that  she  might  find  her  mistake. 
She  listened  to  me,  and  we  heard  no  more  of  that 
case ;  she  may,  however,  have  stated  the  case  to 
the  police.  We  were  convinced  daily,  that  if  the 
right  kind  of  influence  was  exerted  over  this 
downtrodden  class,  they  might  yet  be  brought 
out  of  their  degradation,  notwithstanding  the 
curse  of  slavery  is  upon  them  as  well  as  the 
whites.  Paying  them  an  equivalent  for  their 
labor,  and  furnishing  them  with  plenty  of  it, 
would  do  much  towards  a  radical  change.  This 
is  a  foul  blot  on  all  the  inhabitants  of  those 
islands,  and  some  are  repenting  having  done  so 

10* 


110  JOURNAL. 

little  to  promote  the  moral  condition  of  the  peo- 
ple. Sordid  covetousness,  and  a  determination 
to  force  the  freed  people  to  work  for  a  pittance, 
has  induced  them  to  import  Coolies,  to  starve  out 
their  own  native-born  citizens. 

We  often  remarked  while  on  this  island,  where 
every  facility  was  at  hand  for  producing  all  the 
staples  cultivated  there,  what  wonders  might  be 
brought  about,  not  only  in  the  state  of  society, 
but  in  accumulation  of  wealth,  if  the  laborers 
were  paid  as  they  should  be. 

We  were  informed  colored  people  were  often 
decoyed  from  other  islands,  to  their  great  chagrin 
and  discomfort,  paying  them  no  more  than  they 
do  their  own  people,  with  which  they  are  greatly 
dissatisfied.  This  intelligence  we  had  from  a 
man  on  the  plantation  where  a  large  number  had 
recently  been  brought  from  Barbadoes.  He  told 
us  all  were  dissatisfied ;  they  thought  they  were 
going  to  Demarara,  where  they  would  receive 
better  pay,  until  they  arrived  at  St.  Croix.  They 
all  meant  to  return  to  Barbadoes  if  possible,  say- 
ing they  were  decoyed  and  brought  on  to  that 
island. 

The  costume  of  the  people  of  color  is  perfectly 
grotesque.  The  dress  of  the  women  is  a  very  short 
petticoat,  extending  a  little  below  the  knees,  with 


COSTUME.  Ill 

a  kind  of  tunic  outside,  bare  ankles,  feet  without 
shoes,  hair  arranged  in  all  manner  of  ways;  those 
pretty,  will  wear  a  gown  over  the  petticoat,  tucked 
up  in  some  curious  style,  quite  knee  high,  with 
bare  limbs  and  feet  like  the  first,  but  with  the 
addition  of  a  Madras  handkerchief  on  their  heads. 
It  being  a  favorite  walk  on  the  sea-shore  in  front 
of  the  fort,  we  oft  repaired  thither  after  the  rays 
of  a  burning  tropical  sun  had  sunk  in  the  west, 
leaving  the  atmosphere  cool  and  balmy.  Here 
we  always  found  a  large  number  of  the  class 
above  described,  in  the  kind  of  costume  spoken 
of;  they  seemed  delighted  to  make  an  exhibi- 
tion before  the  soldiers,  and  we  thought  they 
were  well  pleased  in  their  turn,  as  they  soon 
struck  up  their  music,  with  which  the  colored 
women  seemed  enchanted,  and  commenced  a 
kind  of  dance. 

The  grounds  around  the  fort  are  laid  out  with 
considerable  taste,  and  form  a  pleasant  prome- 
nade for  all  classes  in  the  cool  of  the  day  or  even- 
ing. The  beauty  of  this  spot  is  seldom  sur- 
passed. An  inlet  is  on  one  side  of  the  fort,  ex- 
tending a  considerable  distance  into  the  country; 
it  might  well  be  called  an  arm  of  the  sea.  It  is  a 
great  place  for  ablutions,  and  numbers  of  women 


112  JOURNAL. 

may  be  seen  at  all  hours  of  the  day,  standing 
knee  deep  in  the  water  washing  clothes,  not  bat- 
tling them  with  a  stick  as  when  performing  the 
same  kind  of  labor  on  the  shore.  After  they 
presume  them  sufficiently  cleansed,  they  are 
hung  on  bushes,  of  which  there  is  a  plentiful 
supply  around  this  charming  spot.  A  kind  of 
ornamental  tree  we  never  saw  except  on  this  and 
other  West  India  islands,  is  very  beautiful ;  the 
leaves  are  of  a  living  green  at  all  seasons  of  the 
year,  while  immense  quantities  of  pods  hang  from 
the  trees,  something  like  that  of  the  honey  locust, 
but  ten  times  larger,  and  beautiful  in  color,  being 
a  rich  yellow.  There  is  a  great  variety  of  flow- 
ering trees,  but  some  of  those  of  much  beauty, 
umbrageous,  and  charming  in  form,  were  proven 
to  be  so  poisonous,  that  we  feared  to  touch  or 
even  walk  under  them.  Beauty,  even  in  its  ap- 
parently mildest  form,  is  not  always  to  be  ap- 
proached in  safety. 

The  climate  is  delightful,  the  temperature  rang- 
ing from  seventy  to  eighty-four  degrees ;  but  fre- 
quent showers  occur,  making  calculation  for  clear 
weather  quite  uncertain,  and  preparation  for 
changes  always  necessary.  At  this  season  there  is 
but  little  fruit,  and  indeed  it  is  much  neglected  on 


MEETINGS.  113 

tlie  island  generalty.  The  East  End,  or  Christian- 
stadt,  is  much  the  largest  place,  and  does  most  of 
the  business  of  the  island.  The  Governor  resides 
there,  courts  are  held,  and  the  bank  and  public 
buildings  mostly  are  there.  It  is  surrounded  on 
the  south  by  high  hills  or  mountains,  on  the  west 
by  the  sea.  The  surroundings  are  poor,  and  the 
attraction  for  strangers  much  less  than  at  Fred- 
erickstadt. 

24th.  First  day ;  is  observed  as  a  day  of  rest ; 
some  of  our  boarders  went  to  church.  We  ob- 
served the  people  looked  tolerably  decent  to-day, 
which  bespeaks  well  of  the  day,  if  only  to  effect 
a  day  of  clearing  up.  We  held  our  meeting  in 
the  two  parlors,  which  were  well  filled.  The 
people  did  not  seem  to  consider  that  true  wor- 
ship was  to  be  performed  in  quiet,  secret  intro- 
version of  soul;  they  kept  unsettled  for  some 
time.  At  length  they  were  called  to  stillness,  as 
the  true  preparation  for  acceptable  worship  ;  then 
was  unfolded  the  nature  of  the  Gospel  in  all  its 
essentials.  The  audience  seemed  very  attentive. 
The  nature  of  the  new  birth  was  clearly  ex- 
plained, and  what  it  would  do  for  all  who  knew 
it,  and  listened  to  the  voice  of  God  in  the  soul ; 
it  would  redeem  them  from  all  vice  and   injus- 


114  JOURNAL. 

tice,  and  teach  them  to  do  to  others  as  they  would 
others  should  do  to  them ;  it  would  put  an  end  to 
wars  and  fighting,  and  all  manner  of  evil  in  the 
world ;  make  good  fathers,  good  mothers,  good 
sons,  and  good  daughters,  and  constitute  the 
beginning  of  that  kingdom  on  earth  where  dwell- 
eth  righteousness,  &c.  Also,  the  duty  that  de- 
volved on  the  strong,  to  help  to  bear  the  infirm- 
ities of  the  weak ;  exhorting  the  poor  to  industry 
and  frugality,  and  to  go  out  on  plantations  and  till 
the  soil,  rather  than  live  in  idleness  and  rags. 
The  meeting  closed  to  satisfaction. 

Desires  were  expressed  for  us  to  hold  another 
meeting,  but  my  health  being  delicate,  my  dear 
husband  could  not  consent,  and  it  was  postponed 
for  the  present;  a  very  kind  townsman  offering 
us  his  house,  when  we  felt  like  it. 


CHAPTER  VIII. 

Beauty  of  the  Koads — Coolies — Bassin,  or  Christian- 
stadt — Visit  to  the  Governor. 

22d.  We  took  a  carriage  for  two  hours,  for 
which  we  paid  four  dollars,  and  rode  to  Ham's 
Bluff,  a  point  of  land  overlooking  the  sea;  it  is 
about  four  miles  from  our  home.  "We  invited 
the  mother  of  Dr.  Shippen,  and  young  Baldwin, 
an  invalid,  to  go  with  us,  making  an  agreeable 
addition  to  our  company.  It  was  a  most  charm- 
ing ride,  the  whole  distance  on  the  sea-shore,  and 
like  all  the  other  roads  on  the  island,  of  unpar- 
alleled beauty  and  excellence.  Indeed,  we  had 
never  seen  such  in  any  country.  They  are  com- 
posed of  white  gravel  and  sand,  which  seems  as 
hard  as  flint,  while  they  are  smooth  as  a  house- 
floor  ;  very  broad,  with  a  row  of  cocoanut  palm, 
or  other  ornamental  trees,  on  either  side.  We 
passed  many  plantations,  or,  as  they  call  them, 
estates,  each  one  having  a  fancy  name ;  all  culti- 
vating   sugar-cane  upon  them.     Here  we  saw 


116  JOURNAL. 

large  numbers  of  laborers  on  the  plantations,  en- 
gaged, some  in  cutting,  some  in  planting,  and 
some  in  digging  holes  to  put  out  cane.  We  saw 
many  Coolies  engaged  at  work,  whose  appearance 
was  very  repulsive,  being  at  their  work  in  a  state 
of  nudity,  with  the  exception  of  a  piece  of  cotton 
cloth,  put  round  the  body ;  while  women  as  well 
as  men  are  engaged  in  labor  on  the  same  spot. 
Their  labor  appeared  to  be  very  hard,  especially 
where  they  were  digging  holes  for  planting. 
The  hoes  are  very  heavy,  and  they  seem  to  think 
it  needful  to  raise  them  above  their  heads  before 
striking  them  in  the  ground,  which  made  the 
labor  much  more  oppressive.  The  cane  crop 
this  year  will  be  a  failure  on  many  estates,  owing 
to  the  great  drought  on  the  island,  but  we  think 
for  want  of  proper  cultivation  as  well. 

A  short  distance  from  the  sea  rise,  for  many 
miles  around,  a  large  number  of  conical  hills, 
forming  an  amphitheatre  of  surpassing  beauty. 
They  are  planted  with  cane,  which  is  of  a  vivid 
green,  and  are  accessible  on  all  sides  by  terraces 
formed  quite  around  them.  They  look  splendid 
in  the  extreme.  We  saw  large  numbers  of  wo- 
men and  children  pulling  out  the  weeds  and 
grass   among  the   cane;    many  of   the   women 


WOMEN    AT    LABOR.  117 

bowed  with  age.  The  labor  on  those  hills  was 
much  harder  than  where  we  had  seen  them  at 
work  below.  If  we  happened  to  be  out  near 
nightfall,  we  saw  the  aged  women  coming  in 
with  heavy  loads  of  grass,  weeds,  or  sticks,  on 
their  backs,  which  they  told  us  they  had  been  a 
long  distance  to  gather,  and  would  bring  them 
but  three  or  four  cents  a  bundle  in  the  town. 
Many  of  them  had  large  elephanta  feet  and 
limbs,  swollen  very  much,  resembling  an  ele- 
phant's. Our  hearts  were  deeply  moved  at  the 
sight.  They  were  wretchedly  clad,  hungry, 
and  destitute  of  every  comfort  in  life.  We,  of 
course,  did  minister  to  their  necessities,  and  turn- 
ed from  them  with  feelings  of  deep  sorrow,  in 
that  "  Man's  inhumanity  to  man  makes  countless 
thousands  mourn." 

Next  morning,  my  dear  husband  received  a 
letter  from  the  judge,  requesting  an  interview. 
He  did  so,  calling  on  him  at  twelve  o'clock,  and 
was  informed  that  the  Governor  had  heard  there 
was  a  lady  preaching  doctrines  on  religion,  equal 
rights,  politics,  and  morality,  that  were  setting 
the  people  crazy.  He  desired  to  know  wTho  she 
was,  and  what  she  was  preaching,  and  whether 
in  the  open  air,  or  in  houses;  and  requested  we 

11 


118  JOURNAL. 

would  state,  in  a  letter  to  him,  the  necessary  re- 
ply, which  my  husband  did,  as  follows.  We  then 
queried  whether  this  request  was  to  place  a  pro- 
hibition on  our  holding  any  other  meeting,  and 
was  answered,  "Wo !  we  might  act  as  we  thought 
best  on  the  subject, — no  restriction  was  imposed." 
"We  then  queried  whether  we  had  not  best  sus- 
pend holding  any  other  meeting  until  we  saw  the 
Governor,  which  we  would  do  early  in  the  next 
week,  and  was  answered,  "  Use  your  own  pleas- 
ure." Here  follows  a  copy  of  the  letter  sent  to 
the  judge,  which  he  was  to  send  to  the  Governor. 

Frederickstadt,  1st  mo.  28th,  1864. 
Kespected  Judge  : 

It  is  with  pleasure  we  respond  to  the  request  thou  hast  made. 
The  name  of  my  wife  is  Kachel  Wilson  Moore.  She  has  held 
two  meetings  only,  with  thy  approval,  but  none  in  the  open 
air,  as  thou  suggested  would  be  proper  and  convenient.  Both 
were  held  in  the  parlors  at  our  boarding-house.  She  is  a  min- 
ister of  the  Society  of  Friends  in  Philadelphia,  State  of  Penn- 
sylvania ;  for  the  evidence  of  which  we  have  a  certificate, 
signed  by  a  number  of  Friends  of  Green  Street  Monthly  Meet- 
ing, where  we  belong.  Our  preachers  do  not  premeditate  what 
they  shall  say,  but  speak  as  they  feel  impressed  by  the  Holy 
Spirit.  The  subjects  on  which  they  discourse  is  to  direct  man- 
kind to  the  gift  of  God,  within  themselves,  which  teaches 
what  is  right  and  what  is  wrong,  agreeably  to  the  Apostolic 
declaration,  "A  measure,  or  manifestation  of  the  Spirit,  is 


LETTERS    FROM     HOME.  119 

given  to  every  man  to  profit  withal."  In  the  illustration  of  this 
principle  of  truth,  she  alluded  to  the  benign  laws  and  happy 
government  that  exists  here,  as  we  supposed,  when  our  feet 
first  pressed  your  soil ;  and  what  course,  in  her  opinion,  might 
be  adopted,  in  a  social  point  of  view,  to  benefit  every  class. 
We  expect  to  visit  Christianstadt,  on  second  day  (Monday), 
next,  or  one  day  early  in  the  week,  when  we  will  be  gratified 
to  call  on  the  Governor,  and  show  him  who  we  are,  and  of  our 
standing  at  home ;  and  in  the  meantime,  I  take  pleasure  in 
referring  to  my  friend,  Adam  McCutchin,  who  is  personally 
acquainted  with  me. 

Very  respectfully,  thy  friend, 

J.  Wilson  Moore. 

Second  month  1st,  1864.  We  have  received 
twelve  or  thirteen  letters  from  our  friends  at 
home;  the  latest  date  was  twelfth  month  16th, 
1863.  We  hailed  the  package  with  much  joy, 
and  although  we  received  the  intelligence  of 
many  dear  friends'  departure,  amongst  whom 
were  Samuel  Myers,  William  Parrish,  Hannah 
Jones,  William  George,  J.  Bunting,  and  Charles 
Shoemaker,  yet  we  also  learned  of  many  gratify- 
ing incidents  that  were  taking  place,  and  that 
our  own  concerns  were  going  on  satisfactorily. 

We  are  situated  very  comfortably,  with  com- 
panions of  good,  sound  principles,  and  kind  as- 
sociates, and  spend  our  time  reading,  writing, 
walking  about,  and  in  social  conversation. 


120  JOURNAL. 

The  day  looks  fine.  We  have  taken  a  carriage, 
for  seven  dollars,  and  are  going  to  Bassin,  or 
Christianstadt,  accompanied  by  Eliza  Arestrop. 
It  is  upwards  of  two  hours'  ride. 

We  arrived  about  eleven  o'clock,  and  went  to 
Charles  and  Anne  Hallison's,  granddaughter  of 
Eliza  Arestrop,  who  had  invited  us  previously, 
when  we  visited  the  East  End,  to  come  to  their 
house.  We  were  very  kindly  entertained,  and 
soon  joined  by  her  mother,  Mary  Jane  Stackman, 
and  husband,  Judge  John  Stackman,  who  we 
found  very  agreeable  persons.  They  kindly  in- 
vited us  to  make  them  a  visit.  We  soon  called 
on  our  friend  Adam  McCutchin,  who  introduced 
his  daughter  Kate,  and  enjoined  her  to  entertain 
us,  should  he  not  be  present.  We  were  to  call  at 
one  o'clock,  to  visit  the  Governor.  He  offered 
us,  in  the  way  of  funds,  anything  we  wanted,  at 
the  same  time  told  my  dear  husband  he  would 
introduce  him  to  the  manager  of  the  bank,  if  he 
desired  it.  They  accordingly  went  to  the  bank, 
and  made  arrangements  for  an  exchange  in  gold. 

At  the  time  appointed,  we  called  on  the  Gov- 
ernor. He  told  us,  but  gave  it  little  credit  from 
the  first,  what  he  had  heard,  which  was  a  very 
incorrect   story.     After  much   conversation  be- 


VISIT    TO    THE    GOVERNOR.  121 

tween  us,  on  the  topics  of  religion  and  political 
economy,  &c,  I  asked  him  whether  he  wished  us 
not  to  hold  any  meetings.  He  replied,  by  no  means 
would  he  restrain  us;  that  we  were  at  liberty  to 
do  as  we  wished;  he  only  thought  it  would  be 
best  not  to  hold  them  in  the  open  air,  lest  an  un- 
governable crowd  should  get  together;  that  he 
thought  any  advice  relative  to  laborers  not  get- 
ting sufficient  pay  for  their  work  might  do  them 
more  harm  than  good ;  that  they  lived  here  un- 
der different  conditions  from  what  they  do  in 
the  United  States,  and  that  the  price  of  labor 
must  be  regulated  by  circumstances.  Yet  he 
would  not  interfere  with  our  entire  freedom.  He 
knew  no  distinction  of  caste ;  all  were  citizens, 
and  to  be  treated  alike.  I  asked  him  if  he 
thought  from  seven  to  fifteen  cents  a  day,  for 
labor,  could  elevate  a  man  in  self-respect?  To 
which  he  replied,  he  did  not.  I  then  asked  him 
if  he  did  not  think  measures  should  be  taken  to 
bring  about  a  change?  To  which  he  assented, 
but  believed  it  would  be  a  very  difficult  thing  to 
accomplish,  as  the  owners  of  lands  would  not  be 
willing.  I  replied  then,  "  Their  condition  is  de- 
plorable," relating  many  circumstances  of  the 
great  degradation  and  want;  that  there  was  no 
11* 


122  JOURNAL. 

provision  for  the  sick  and  aged ;  that  they  were 
wandering  about  the  streets  begging,  without 
any  of  the  comforts  of  life.  To  which  he  re- 
plied, he  knew  there  was  a  vast  amount  of  wrong 
being  done  on  the  island,  which  ought  to  be 
righted,  but  he  did  not  see  how  it  was  to  be  done. 
I  told  him  it  was  as  plain  as  the  rays  of  the  sun 
what  was  to  be  done.  Let  the  people  be  well 
paid  for  their  labor;  let  them  all  have  literary  ad- 
vantages ;  try  to  elevate  them,  and  lift  them  out 
of  their  degradation ;  which  would  effect  a  radi- 
cal change  over  that  island,  as  well  as  all  the 
rest.  But  it  was  plain  to  see,  he  feared  his  popu- 
larity, although  he  seemed  a  most  kind  and  gen- 
tlemanly man;  very  aftable  in  his  manners,  and 
entirely  accessible.  It  seemed,  indeed,  as  if  we 
had  access  to  his  heart,  and  felt  the  warmth  of 
its  genial  influence  responding  to  all  we  advanced 
as  being  right.  We  took  leave  with  the  kindest 
feelings. 

We  then  went  to  Adam  McCutchin's,  and  were 
introduced  to  another  daughter,  Jane,  older  than 
Kate.  They  had  both  been  educated  at  Burling- 
ton, New  Jersey,  at  Bishop  Doane's  Institution. 

We  then  took  a  ride  in  Judge  Stackman's  car- 
riage, which  was  kindly  brought  up  for  our  use, 


BASSIN    OR    CHRISTIANSTADT.  123 

and  rode  around  the  town,  comparing  its  situa- 
tion with  the  West  End,  and  came  to  the  conclu- 
sion that  the  West  End  was  by  far  the  most  de- 
sirable for  invalids.  The  country  was  richer  and 
finer,  walks  and  rides  more  beautiful,  and  a 
greater  variety;  streets  wider  and  more  airy. 
Indeed,  everything  to  make  a  residence  desira- 
ble was  vastly  more  attainable  at  the  West  End. 

After  a  collation  at  Charles  Hallison's,  we  took 
our  carriage  for  the  West  End,  one  hour  after  the 
time  ordered,  but  we  had  not  progressed  over  a 
mile  out  of  town  before  a  wheel  became  fastened, 
and  we  had  to  return  to  town  and  get  it  fixed, 
which  could  not  be  effected  before  the  morninar. 
It  being  too  far  for  Eliza  and  myself  to  walk  to 
the  Judge's,  and  Eliza  having  a  cousin,  Francis 
Armstrong,  and  Augusta,  his  wife,  near  by,  con- 
cluded to  go  there,  and  tell  of  our  dilemma. 
They  kindly  offered  us  every  accommodation  we 
desired,  and  Ave  spent  a  very  agreeable  evening, 
and  had  a  refreshing  sleep  under  their  hospita- 
ble roof.  After  a  breakfast  at  eight  o'clock,  our 
carriage  being  ready,  we  again  started  at  nine 
o'clock  for  home,  which  we  reached  at  eleven 
o'clock  A.  M. 

The  road  is  magnificent,  is  called  the  King's 


124  JOURNAL. 

highway,  and  is  macadamized,  and  smooth  as  a 
floor.  This  road  is  fifteen  miles  in  length,  or 
rather  is  a  splendid  street,  with  a  row  of  palm  or 
cocoanut  trees  on  each  side,  except  occasionally 
a  little  break.  It  winds  around  the  mountains, 
and  the  drive  is  charming.  Sugar-cane  planta- 
tions are  continually  in  sight,  and  gangs  of  labor- 
ers at  work.  As  we  passed  along,  our  thoughts 
were  often  turned  to  the  multiplied  blessings 
showered  on  this  as  well  as  the  other  islands  by 
the  great  and  good  Father;  but  how  poor  the 
returns  !  We  were  informed  by  an  agent  that 
many  plantations  are  thrown  out  for  want  of 
laborers,  and  property  is  much  depreciated  since 
emancipation. 

Third  month,  1st. — We  are  to  lose  our  friends 
the  Shippens,  as  they  have  taken  board  at  Eliza- 
beth Brady's.  We  are  sorry  to  part  with  them; 
they  are  very  agreeable  companions.  Their 
place  is  supplied  by  Dr.  Henderson  and  wife,  of 
Springfield,  JSTew  Jersey.  He  came  on  account 
of  a  bronchial  difficulty. 

We  took  a  ride  in  a  carriage  we  hired  for  one 
dollar  and  twenty-five  cents.  The  horse  is  one 
of  those  poor  little  creatures  that  requires  the  con- 
stant application  of  a  whip.    We  rebelled  against 


DRIVES.  125 

such  an  animal,  and  the  owner  promised  us  a 
better  one  in  future. 

Second  month,  4th,  1864.— This  is  the  fifth 
of  the  week,  and  the  day  has  been  passed  in 
dressmaking,  as  the  weather  is  warm,  and  my 
clothing  on  hand  not  at  all  suitable  for  this  tem- 
perature. The  thermometer  now  stands  seventy- 
six  degrees,  and  windy. 

We  saw  large  fields  of  sugar-cane  in  the  val- 
leys, and  grass  and  shrubbery  covering  the  moun- 
tain-tops. The  ride  was  beautiful,  and  scenery 
romantic,  fine  mansions  on  every  plantation,  with 
their  small  cabins  and  sugar-house,  and  other 
buildings  for  preparing  the  sugar  for  market. 
Since  the  emancipation,  in  1848,  many  laborers 
have  left  the  plantations,  and  congregated  in  the 
town,  constituting  a  population  of  poverty,  dis- 
tress, and  wretchedness. 


CHAPTER  IX. 

Schools — Sugar  Grinding — Drives — Visits  to  Planta- 
tions—  Mount  Washington — Mount  Victory  —  Har- 
bor of  Frederickstadt — Streets — Markets — Birds — 
Game. 

There  are  a  few  schools  on  the  island,  that  were 
instituted  long  before  emancipation,  where  chil- 
dren of  all  classes,  without  distinction  of  color, 
may  attend  school  for  a  limited  time.  One  of  the 
teachers  told  us  that  few  of  them  could  read  or 
write  so  that  it  could  be  understood  when  they 
left  the  school,  which  is  at  an  early  age.  We  also 
visited  some  paying-schools,  where  white  and 
colored  attend.  The  sum  demanded  for  schooling 
is  not  large ;  if  it  were,  the  parents  would  not  be 
able  to  pay  it.  Neither  of  the  requisites,  books, 
paper,  or  anything  else,  is  furnished  them.  I 
think  I  counted  as  many  as  eight  or  ten  looking 
over  one  old  torn  book ;  they  of  course  make  but 
little  advance.  On  leaving  them  we  felt  it  right 
to  give  them  means  to  procure  books,  and  had  a 


RELIGIOUS    MEETINGS.  127 

very  satisfactory  opportunity  with  a  large  number 
of  scholars. 

Marriages  take  place  between  whites  and  na- 
tives, and  although  there  exists  a  feeling  of  aris- 
tocracy with  some,  yet  we  think  caste  is  fast  pass- 
ing away. 

We  passed  by  Negro  Bay  Estate,  which  former- 
ly belonged  to  the  Titcun  family ;  also,  Beck's 
Grove,  on  which  Sallie  Irving's  money  is  placed, 
of  which  my  dear  husband  long  had  the  charge, 
being  her  trustee. 

Second  month,  7th. — We  have  applied  to  the 
Moravian  minister  here  to  let  us  use  his  school- 
house  on  first  day  afternoon,  to  hold  a  meeting, 
but  he  did  not  seem  willing,  excusing  himself 
by  informing  us  he  had  not  heard  from  the  su- 
perintendent, who  had  charge  of  such  things. 
We  held  a  meeting  in  the  parlors  of  Eliza  Are- 
strop  this  evening,  when  quite  a  respectable  con- 
gregation assembled  at  seven  and  a  half  o'clock. 
The  subject  of  silent  worship  was  brought  into 
view,  and  the  meeting  ended  well. 

Second  and  third  days  spent  in  answering  let- 
ters. The  wind  is  high,  thermometer  at  noon 
eighty-one  degrees ;  only  seven  degrees  between 
the  thermometer  in  the  shade  and  that  in  the 


128  JOURNAL. 

sun,  and  even  where  the  sun  is  very  oppressive, 
I  have  not  discovered  more  than  ten  to  twelve 
degrees  difference. 

10th.  It  blew  and  rained  hard  in  the  night. 
Thermometer  seventy  degrees;  at  noon  eighty, 
and  in  the  sun  ninety.  We  find  the  thermome- 
ter in  shade  and  sun  varies  at  the  same  time  of 
day  from  ten  to  twelve  degrees ;  whilst  exceed- 
ingly oppressive  in  the  sun,  it  will  be  comfortable 
in  the  shade,  owing  to  the  breezes  that  prevail 
east  and  southeast. 

We  visited  this  morning,  at  ten  o'clock,  the 
sugar-grinding    on   the    estate    called    the   Two 

Brothers,  belonging  to .     They  grind  by 

a  windmill,  with  two  large  upright  cylinders, 
about  eighteen  inches  in  diameter,  and  three  feet 
high.  They  throw  in  an  armful  of  cane  at  a 
time;  it  is  crushed,  and  the  juice  flows  into  a 
trough,  and  is  conveyed  by  a  conductor  into  the 
boiling-house  into  large  boilers  containing  two 
hundred  and  fifty  gallons  each,  four  of  which 
when  boiled  makes  about  one  hogshead  of  sugar. 
The  scum  or  refuse  is  put  into  large  vats  with 
water,  and  afterwards  finally  made  into  rum. 
The  sugar,  when  boiled,  is  put  into  coolers, 
where  it  granulates ;  the  stalks  are  taken  to  a 


SUGAR-BOILING.  129 

shed,  and  used  as  fuel  to  boil  the  sugar.  We 
were  of  the  opinion  that  the  stalks,  if  put  into 
vats  and  steeped  in  water,  would  impregnate 
the  water  sufficiently  to  make  vinegar,  after  which 
the  cane  could  be  used  for  fuel.  The  manager 
told  us  they  never  did  that. 

Our  ride  yesterday  afternoon,  one  hour  and 
a  quarter,  was  by  La  Grange  and  Prosperity, 
through  a  valley,  and  along  a  stream  of  water  to 
Oxford,  about  five  miles  and  back.  All  the  es- 
tates we  passed  had  the  appearance  of  decay. 

11th.  In  a  conversation  that  took  place  with 
R.  G.  Knight,  a  friend  of  Henderson's,  a  planter 
of  wealth  and  influence,  we  were  informed  that 
there  was  a  legislative  council  on  that  island,  and 
they  had  the  power  to  legislate  for  themselves, 
and  that  the  members  were  elected  every  three 
years,  and  that  all  who  paid  their  taxes,  and  pos- 
sessed a  certain  amount  of  property,  had  the 
right  of  franchise,  without  distinction  of  color; 
that  Bassin  had  five  electors,  three  of  whom  were 
colored,  elected  about  two  weeks  since;  West 
End  had  three  electors.  That  a  distinction  of 
color  did  exist  to  a  certain  extent,  particularly 
between  the  English  ;  the  Danes  made  no  differ- 
ence ;  they  married  and  intermarried,  and  thought 

12 


130  JOUKNAL. 

it  all  right.  We  were  talking  with  one  of  the  elec- 
tors of  the  "West  End,  and  asked  him  in  his  own 
case  would  he  associate  with  one  of  his  colored 
colleagues  in  a  social  capacity?  He  answered 
that  he  had  not,  but  did  not  say  he  would  not. 
He  stated  that  Governor  Sharston  had  tried 
to  do  away  caste,  but  had  failed  in  his  efforts, 
though  they  mixed  in  all  business  affairs,  in 
meetings,  &c. 

On  the  sixteenth,  we  held  a  meeting  at  the 
house  of  the  gentleman  (a  Creole)  who  some  time 
previous  had  extended  an  invitation  to  us.  It 
was  well  attended  and  satisfactory.  The  end  of 
man's  creation,  and  his  duty  to  our  beneficent 
Creator,  and  to  each  other,  were  brought  into 
view,  and  it  ended  well,  in  which  all  honor  and 
praise  is  due  to  the  Author  of  all  good. 

On  the  thirteenth,  we  had  taken  a  lovely  ride 
to  Mount  Washington,  then  up  the  mountain  to 
an  estate  called  Prosperity,  a  most  sequestered 
spot.  The  prospect  could  not  be  surpassed  in 
beauty,  only  the  grounds  suffered  for  want  of 
proper  cultivation. 

On  the  seventeenth,  we  informed  E.  Arestrop, 
our  hostess,  that  as  several  of  our  friends  had 
gone  to  take  lodgings  with  E,  Brady,  we  thought 


DECAY    OF    ESTATES.  131 

we  should  like  to  be  with  them,  which  we  af- 
terward regretted,  as  E.  Brady's  house  became 
greatly  crowded,  and  we  had  plenty  of  room  and 
pretty  comfortable  fare  at  E.  Arestrop's.  Soon 
after  this  we  received  letters  from  our  friends. 
None  can  realize  the  pleasure  it  affords,  save 
those  who  are  far  away  from  friends  and  kindred, 
in  a  laud  of  strangers. 

Second  month,  19th. — To-day  we  rode  out  to 
an  estate  called  Hannah's  Rest,  where  were  some 
of  my  dear  husband's  friends  boarding.  All  the 
estates  are  going  down,  and  the  once  costly  man- 
sions decay  for  want  of  care  as  well  as  cultiva- 
tion, while  twenty  cents  per  day  for  labor  would 
make  all  to  blossom  as  the  rose,  and  yield  an 
hundred-fold.  "We  were  told  ofttimes  that  no 
freemen,  emancipated  as  they  are,  were  allowed 
to  hire  or  purchase  an  acre  of  land  to  show  what 
free  labor  and  industry  could  do ;  and  the  same 
statement  was  confirmed  by  a  merchant  at  St. 
Thomas,  saying  at  the  same  time  the  Islanders 
would  never  consent  to  that.  I  queried  with  him 
to  know  if  that  was  justice;  he  did  not  care  to 
answer,  and  soon  took  leave,  after  our  giving  our 
views  on  the  subject  without  reserve. 

To-day,  three  o'clock,  some  of  our  friends  from 


132  JOURNAL. 

Bassin  called  on  us,  and  we  enjoyed  the  inter- 
view much,  as  well  as  the  visitors.  Oh !  how 
watchful  we  should  be,  both  in  going  out  and 
coming  in  before  the  people.  We  require  our 
faith  and  patience  oft  renewed  in  the  arm  of  Om- 
nipotence.    Oh !  for  a  closer  "  walk  with  God." 

On  the  twentieth,  our  hearts  more  buoyant,  for 
which  we  feel  thankful.  We  rose  early  this 
morn,  to  take  a  walk  out,  and  saw  wretchedness 
in  all  its  horrors ;  many  begging  us  for  a  penny ; 
others  for  a  stiver,  saying,  "We  are  starving;" 
some  showing  us  their  elephantic  feet  and  limbs, 
swollen  to  a  dreadful  extent,  not  unfrequently 
with  sores  upon  them  resembling  cancers.  It 
must  have  been  a  hard  heart  to  turn  from  such 
objects  of  pity,  without  relieving  them  for  the 
time  being,  at  least.  This  was  of  every-day  oc- 
currence, if  we  walked  out.  Another  distressing 
feature  presented  at  all  times  in  the  streets,  and 
not  unfrequently  at  our  boarding-places,  was 
young  colored  girls  with  white  infants,  or  chil- 
dren that  could  walk  and  talk.  On  my  asking  if 
they  were  married,  the  answer  was  always  in 
the  negative.  "  To  whom,  then,  do  these  children 
belong?"  The  return  was  quick  as  thought, 
"  To  such  a  gentleman  down  town,  on  a  planta- 


NEGRO    DEGRADATION.  133 

tion,  gone  to  Denmark,  England,"  or  somewhere 
else.  Some  of  them,  whose  children  could  talk, 
would  say  to  the  poor  child  of  shame,  "  Tell  this 
lady  and  gentleman  your  papa's  name,"  which 
prudence  forbids  our  giving.  Now,  this  is  no 
sham ;  but  may  be  seen  at  all  hours  of  the  day. 
On  one  of  those  walks  we  saw  a  terrible  piece  of 
deformity,  with  one  little  being  by  the  hand,  and 
another  in  her  arms.  On  coming  up  to  her  I 
thought  how  cruel  the  white  woman  was  that 
gave  her  such  a  charge,  as  it  looked  as  if  she 
would  have  hard  work  to  take  care  of  herself.  It 
had  been  raining,  and  she  was  draggled  to  the 
knees.  I  inquired  whose  children  they  were. 
"  Mine,  madam,"  was  the  answer.  "Art  thou  mar- 
ried?" I  asked.  She  replied,  "No,  ma'am;  their 
father,"  so  and  so.  "We  came  to  the  conclusion, 
after  seeing  that  woman,  the  lowest  could  find  a 
mate.  "What  are  we  to  think  of  the  state  of  so- 
ciety where  such  enormities  prevail  everywhere? 
It  caused  our  spirits  to  die  within  us  at  what  we 
saw  and  heard.  Marriages,  we  were  told,  seldom 
occur  among  any  class,  while  the  streets  are  lined 
with  children.  This  is  much  the  case  on  all  the 
islands, — being  the  direful  result  of  slavery,  and 
like  our  Southern  planters,  the  whites  disapprove 
12* 


134  JOURNAL. 

of  amalgamation.  We  even  told  them  we  should 
like  to  see  precept  and  example  agree  better  than 
it  did  there.  It  is  a  remarkable  fact  that  the  chil- 
dren of  a  white  father,  as  far  as  our  observation 
went,  are  generally  white,  or  nearly  so ;  but  when 
the  mother  is  white  and  father  colored,  the  chil- 
dren generally  are  very  dark.  Now,  we  gave  no 
counsel  as  to  union  between  the  races,  viewing  it 
as  a  matter  of  taste ;  if  an  honorable  marriage 
takes  place,  we  felt  we  had  no  business  with  the 
subject;  but  did  feel  if  girls  of  color  were  suited 
for  the  mates  of  white  men,  they  were  suited  for 
their  brides  as  well ;  and  he  must  be  one  of  the 
low  and  degraded  of  the  earth  who  could  act 
otherwise.  Now,  I  know  this  will  be  termed  in- 
delicate to  treat  on  this  subject  at  such  length, 
but  how  are  we  to  find  a  remedy,  save  in  out- 
spoken truths? 

We  rode  out  every  day  to  different  estates,  and 
once  called  on  an  overseer,  a  Dane,  who,  with  his 
wife,  gave  us  much  useful  information  relative  to 
what  could  be  done,  would  the  owners  pay  twen- 
ty cents  per  day.  They  do  not  like  the  Coolies. 
He  told  us  great  difficulty  was  created  by  com- 
pelling the  laborers  to  remain  such  a  length  of 
time  on  certain  plantations,  saying,  "They  should 


SCHOOLS.  135 

be  well  paid,  and  never  detained  against  their 
will."  He  spoke  of  the  schools  as  of  but  little 
account.  Children  may  attend  them  until  ten 
years  of  age,  but  gave  the  same  version  of  their 
acquirements  as  others  had  done,  that  few,  when 
they  left  school,  could  read  or  write ;  so  they  are 
growing  up  in  ignorance  as  well  as  bad  habits. 
He  told  us  people  would  have  more  self-respect 
if  educated;  that  most  who  came  there  from 
Barbadoes  could  read  and  write. 

21st.  First  day.  I  attended  a  Swedenborgian 
meeting.  They  are  a  little  company,  the  master 
of  which  was  the  kind  man  who  invited  us  to 
hold  a  meeting  in  his  commodious  parlor,  when 
we  could  obtain  a  place  nowhere  else.  I  felt  it  a 
duty,  and  gave  them,  at  the  close,  some  suitable 
counsel,  which  was  kindly  received.  We  have 
ardently  desired  to  attend  strictly  to  the  point- 
ings of  truth,  long  having  felt  a  strong  desire  to 
visit  these  islands;  but  was  so  ill  when  leaving 
home,  I  did  not  expect  to  attend  one  meeting, 
only  as  way  has  opened  for  it  in  the  truth.  As 
the  people  made  the  appointments,  in  every  in- 
stance, we  attended  them,  to  the  peace  of  our 
own  minds,  and,  we  trust,  the  counsel  left  with  all 
classes  will  not  be  forgotten,  but  like  "bread  cast 


136  JOURNAL. 

on  the  waters,  will  be  found  after  many  days." 
Our  abolition  views  and  feelings  were  repulsive 
to  some;  while  to  others  nothing  could  have 
been  more  encouraging. 

Yesterday,  twenty-third,  spent  some  time  writ- 
ing our  friends,  and  the  day  following  took  a 
ride  to  Mount  Victory,  but  our  horse  did  not 
prove  adequate  to  the  trip,  and  we  had  to  return. 
This  island  exceeds  all  others  for  charming  walks 
and  drives,  leaving  out  the  sad  sights  seen  in  all 
directions;  of  poor  old  bowed  men  and  women 
returning  from  work,  with  heavy  loads  of  grass, 
or  little  sticks,  from  some  far-off  spot  in  the  in- 
terior, where  they  had  been  procured  by  hard 
labor,  for  which  three,  or  at  most,  four  cents,  are 
all  they  get  for  them.  It  is  against  the  law  for  a 
slave  to  cut  a  stick  large  enough  for  a  cane,  or 
to  pull  a  bunch  of  grass.  We  often  saw  them 
gathering  sticks  and  thorns  to  cook  their  meals 
with,  and  we  were  told  they  made  soup  from  the 
wild  cactus,  which  is  abundant  on  the  islands. 
The  natives  told  us  their  having  been  compelled 
to  go  so  much  among  them  with  their  bare  feet, 
had  produced  elephantiasis  in  their  feet  and 
limbs,  although  my  dear  husband  said  there  was 
another  cause. 


SEA-SHORE.  137 

We  have  now  been  mostly  in  our  chamber  for 
several  days;  the  wind  having  been  southeast, 
quite  cool,  and  a  great  draught  in  our  room,  we 
find  it  quite  uncomfortable.  Towards  evening  we 
went  on  the  plaza,  for  a  short  time,  but  found  it 
too  cool,  and  soon  after  had  cough  and  pain  in 
the  side,  but  after  using  the  restoratives  pre- 
scribed by  my  dear  husband,  I  began  to  improve, 
and  it  was  not  long  before  I  was  nearly  as  well  as 
ever,  as  the  weather  changed  and  became  mild. 
We  often  rambled  on  the  sea-shore,  and  gathered 
shells  and  other  curiosities.  We  brought  a  large 
quantity  with  us  to  the  United  States,  which,  with 
many  West  India  fruits  preserved  in  glass  jars, 
have  been  highly  interesting  to  our  friends  and 
others  who  have  visited  us. 

We  have  some  of  our  friends  here  from  St. 
Thomas,  on  whom  we  called  to-day. 

29th.  We  took  a  ride  along  the  sea  about  five 
miles.  The  road  is  much  as  if  prepared  for  cars 
to  run  on, — so  smooth  and  level ;  trees  of  various 
kinds,  very  beautiful.  What  a  sad  reflection, 
that  where  our  good  Father  has  scattered  His 
blessings  with  so  liberal  a  hand,  that  all  should 
have  been  prostituted  to  the  curse  of  slavery! 
On  our  way  back  we  passed  many  graves,  near 


138  JOURNAL. 

the  bank,  along  the  sea-shore.  We  could  scarcely 
conjecture  why  the  inhabitants  chose  that  spot, 
but  were  told  the  graves  were  made  there  before 
they  began  to  have  grounds  appropriated  for  that 
purpose  only.  Some  of  them  had  an  air  of  gran- 
deur, with  splendid  ornamental  trees  waving  over 
them.  Some  said  families  find  rest  there,  but  it 
seemed  to  us  of  little  importance  any  way.  We 
visited  an  estate  at  La  Grange,  on  our  return  from 
Ham's  Bluff",  where  sugar-making  was  going  on ; 
but  it  has  been  described,  and  needs  no  further 
comment.  The  syrup  is  called  "sling,"  and  is 
used  in  the  place  of  butter. 

The  day  is  fine;  thermometer  from  seventy- 
five  to  eighty.  We  now  begin  to  long  for  the 
comforts  of  home.  Near  this  time  a  fellow-com- 
panion arrived  from  New  York,  who  appeared  in 
the  last  stage  of  consumption,  son  of  J.  Shotwell. 
He  remained  with  us  while  we  stayed  on  the 
island,  and  after  we  left  took  passage  for  New 
York,  in  company  with  Dr.  Henderson  and  wife, 
from  New  Jersey,  but  died  on  the  passage  home. 
His  remains  were,  however,  not  committed  to 
the  watery  elements,  as  is  generally  the  case,  but 
carried  into  his  native  city,  where  his  friends 
could  have  the  sad  satisfaction  of  seeing  the  life- 


MOUNT    VICTORY.  139 

less  remains  deposited  in  the  home  of  his  child- 
hood, before  laying  it  away  in  one  of  the  silent 
halls  of  death.  lie  was  an  interesting  young 
man,  and  gained  the  love  and  good-will  of  all 
who  knew  him.  Such  is  human  life;  "in  the 
morning  the  flower  flourisheth,  and  groweth  up; 
in  the  evening  it  is  cut  down  and  withereth." 

"We  have  held  two  meetings  at  the  house  of 
Elizabeth  Brady,  our  hostess,  a  very  kind  woman. 

Third  month,  8th.  We  took  another  ride  to 
Mount  Victory,  and  were  highly  delighted  with 
the  beautiful  scenery.  The  cone-like  hills  rising 
in  the  distance,  covered  with  rich  foliage,  gave 
them  a  splendid  appearance.  The  horses  here 
are  small  and  poorly  kept,  but  sometimes  they 
become  quite  unmanageable,  as  we  proved  more 
than  once, — coming  near  losing  our  lives,  as  we 
were  riding  out,  on  two  occasions ;  we  were  only 
saved  after  the  horse  had  run  for  a  considerable 
distance,  and  seemed  bent  on  diving  into  the  sea. 
By  means  few  would  have  thought  of,  my  dear 
husband  succeeded  in  changing  his  course,  and 
ran  him  into  a  stack  of  sugar-cane  stalks,  which 
some  laborers  and  the  proprietor  seeing,  ran  to 
our  assistance  and  saved  our  lives.     We  after- 


140  JOURNAL. 

ward   had   another   narrow   escape,  but   not   so 
alarming  as  the  first. 

As  we  rode  along,  we  passed  fields  of  sugar- 
cane, reaching,  in  many  places,  the  very  summit 
of  the  hills,  six  to  seven  hundred  feet  above  the 
ocean.  Along  this  enchanting  road  we  travel  on. 
Leaving  Sprat's  Hall  on  the  left,  we  ascend  a 
long  winding  hill  to  Mount  Victory.  The  estate 
is  owned  by  William  Moore,  and  is  the  country 
residence  of  his  family  in  the  summer.  The 
mansion  is  placed  in  a  valley,  surrounded  by 
high  hills,  on  which  you  look  from  every  quarter, 
covered  with  sugar-cane,  or  planted  in  grass. 
Leaving  this  estate,  we  passed  Rose  Hill,  on 
which  a  windmill  is  situated,  on  a  little  peak  of 
a  mountain ;  and  passing  by,  we  soon  came  on 
the  Annaly  Estate,  which  is  large,  and  sold  not 
long  since  for  forty  thousand  dollars.  Here  we 
turn  short  to  the  right,  and  pass  around  a  cooper- 
shop,  and  take  the  Mahogany  Road,  by  another 
estate  of  William  Moore,  called  Oxford,  and 
managed  by  McGivan,  who  treated  us  kindly. 
He  said  Moore  owned  twelve  estates  on  the 
island,  and  makes  about  three  thousand  hogs- 
heads of  sugar  annually  from  the  estates.  We 
here  have  a  fine  view  of  the  sea  and  lagoon,  with 


TREES.  141 

numerous  spurs  of  hills  interlocking  each  other, 
rising  one  above  the  other,  presenting  a  variety  of 
separate  mounds,  beautifully  cultivated  with  cane, 
or  fields  of  grass,  on  which  cattle  and  sheep  and 
mules  graze  in  great  numbers.  The  road  is  ser- 
pentine, and  descends  for  miles  on  a  gentle  slope, 
and  shaded  with  filbert  trees,  sapodillas,  and 
tamarinds,  and  several  other  trees  of  the  forest. 
Near  this  spot,  a  man  of  color  procured  a  cocoa- 
nut  flower,  very  beautiful,  which  I  preserved,  and 
now  have  in  my  home;  also  the  bread  fruits,  and 
many  others.  After  leaving  this  beautiful  land- 
scape, we  pass  along  Jolly  Hill  and  La  Grange, 
owned  by  Colonel  Logans,  and  coming  in  by  the 
seaside,  we  took  the  left  to  Frederickstadt,  one 
mile. 

Third  month,  14th. — Nothing  has  occurred  of 
sufficient  importance  to  note  since  last  date.  I 
now  resume  my  journal  by  stating  that  we  have, 
within  the  last  week,  sent  off  many  letters  by 
G.  W.  Smith  and  J.  Milligan,  who  expect  to  be, 
by  first  of  fourth  month,  in  ISTew  York. 

Frederickstadt  is  situated  on  the  east  margin 
of  the  sea;  its  harbor  is  protected  by  Ham's 
Bluff  on  the  north,  and  a  point  of  land  projecting 
into  the  sea  on  the  south,  on  which  is  a  lagoon  of 

13 


142  JOURNAL. 

two  miles  in  extent,  without  any  apparent  inlet 
or  outlet  into  the  sea;  the  water  is  soft  and  looks 
muddy,  forming  a  white  foam,  like  soapsuds,  as 
it  flows  toward  the  shore.  This  neck  of  land  is 
overgrown  with  all  kinds  of  shrubbery.  The 
bay  is  as  placid  as  a  river,  except  when  west- 
wardly  winds  prevail ;  it  then  becomes  rough  and 
insecure.  There  are  three  schooners  that  trade 
regularly  between  this  place  and  St.  Thomas ; 
they  are  the  West  End  Packet,  Captain  James ; 
the  Maggie,  Captain  Watlington ;  and  Starlight, 
Captain  Golder;  of  which  there  is  little  choice, 
— our  party  preferring  one,  another  party  the 
other,  and  so  on. 

The  buildings  are  constructed  with  stone  base- 
ments, and  frame  dwellings  above,  having  large 
windows,  chiefly  without  sashes  or  glass.  Some 
have  Venitian  blinds,  others  close  shutters,  to  keep 
out  the  storms.  The  houses  are  mostly  white- 
washed. The  streets  run  at  right  angles.  We  oc- 
cupy a  house  fronting  a  flower  garden  above  Bay 
Street.  The  market  is  near,  but  very  poor,  either 
for  meats,  vegetables,  or  fruits.  The  poorest 
meats  we  ever  saw  are  offered  in  these  markets. 
Poultry  does  not  appear  to  have  been  fattened  at 
all.     Vegetables   and   fruits  scarce,  and  of  the 


DECAY    OF    ESTATES.  143 

most  inferior  quality,  orange  groves  having  been 
cut  down,  as  we  were  told,  to  prevent  the  laborers 
from  selling  them.  As  an  evidence,  one  of  our 
boarders,  being  an  invalid,  passing  some  orange 
trees  on  a  plantation,  inquired  of  a  colored  man 
near  if  he  could  have  half  a  dozen  of  those 
oranges.  After  receiving  them  he  gave  the  man 
fifty  cents ;  the  owner  heard  of  it  and  took  the 
amount  off  the  man's  wages,  nearly  covering  the 
labor  of  a  week. 

This  state  of  things,  and  want  of  supplies,  is 
attributed  to  emancipation.  We  told  them  it 
was  deeper  than  that, — the  system  of  slavery  be- 
fore emancipation,  and  now  in  its  second  advent. 

The  old  inhabitants  had  lived  extravagantly, 
and  involved  themselves  in  debt,  from  which 
they  were  unable  to  extricate  themselves.  Many 
of  them  dying,  their  estates  were  sold,  and  be- 
came the  property  of  foreign  creditors,  and  were 
given  over  to  attorneys  and  managers.  It  being 
no  longer  desirable  to  keep  up  those  costly  man- 
sions, all  that  could  be  gleaned  was  sent  away  to 
remunerate  the  proprietors ;  the  consequence  is, 
the  estates  are  going  down,  owners  are  weary  of 
them,  throw  them  into  market,  and  they  are 
purchased  by  the  attorneys  and  managers,  many 
of  them  Irish,  who  cannot  afford  to  make  the 


144  JOURNAL. 

necessary  outlay  to  restore  them  to  their  former 
beauty.  We  believe  the  time  will  come  when 
every  man,  irrespective  of  color,  will  occupy  his 
own  estate,  and  sit  under  his  vine  and  fig  tree, 
where  none  can  make  him  afraid. 

Birds  are  very  scarce  on  this  island ;  no  deer, 
squirrels,  rabbits,  or  game  of  any  description,  ex- 
cept a  few  quails.  We  are  more  convinced  every 
day  that  it  will  require  a  great  length  of  time  to 
bring  this  people  out  of  their  degradation. 

Third  month,  28th,  second  day  morning. — The 
weather  is  boisterous  and  stormy,  and  the  wind 
blows  tremendously;  wind  east-southeast.  This 
is  a  holiday.  A  party  came  from  St.  Thomas  to 
enjoy  a  festival,  or  picnic.  The  rain  must  have 
interfered  considerably  with  their  hilarity,  not- 
withstanding it  was  to  take  place  on  Prospect 
Estate.  We  visited  Edward  Hart  and  wife,  from 
New  York,  last  night,  who  have  taken  board 
with  the  Widow  Foster.  It  seemed  quite  home- 
like to  mingle  with  people  from  my  native  State. 
We  met  with  a  gentleman  there  who  had  ex- 
plored the  cave  on  the  estate  of  Elizabeth  Brady. 
It  was  found  to  contain  several  different  apart- 
ments, and  the  ceilings  were  covered  with  forma- 
tions of  coral  of  a  very  curious  variety.  We 
brought  home  some  specimens  with  us. 


CHAPTER  X. 

Departure — St.  Thomas — Trip  to  Barbadoes. 

Third  month,  30th,  1864. — Feeling  as  if  our 
time  was  nigh  at  hand  for  leaving  the  island,  the 
object  for  which  we  were  induced  to  come  being, 
as  far  as  appearances  indicate,  pretty  well  estab- 
lished, we  left  this  beautiful  island  in  the  morn- 
ing, about  eleven  o'clock,  without  much  regret, 
in  the  schooner  Maggie,  under  the  command  of 
Captain  Watlington,  for  St.  Thomas.  We  were 
seven  hours  and  forty  minutes  performing  the 
trip. 

I  felt  gratified  at  the  prospect  of  paying  visits 
to  other  islands,  but  on  leaving  this  could  use 
the  words  of  Cowper :  "  With  all  thy  faults  I 
love  thee  still."  So  charmingly  beautiful,  the 
day  so  calm,  so  lovely,  and  so  bright,  seemed 
like  "the  bridal  of  the  earth  and  sky."  "We  re- 
mained on  the  deck  of  our  little  vessel  until  I 

13* 


146  JOURNAL. 

became  seasick,  but  recovered  towards  evening 
to  see  the  silver  orbed  moon  and  brilliant  stars 
walk  forth  in  their  beauty.  I  had  watched  the 
broad  hills  we  had  left,  until  nothing  but  the 
gray  outlines  remained,  overhung  with  fleecy 
clouds,  tinged  with  purple  and  gold ;  and  now, 
in  the  shadows  of  evening,  we  disembarked  from 
our  little  boat,  and  were  again  on  soil  our  feet 
had  pressed  before.  All  seemed  glad  to  see  us 
with  whom  we  had  formed  acquaintance.  On 
repairing  to  our  hotel  found  it  full,  and  we 
sought  a  resting-place  at  one  nigh  at  hand,  for  a 
short  time,  waiting  for  the  arrival  of  an  English 
steamer  to  take  us  to  Barbadoes.  We  had  left 
most  of  our  baggage  in  care  of  the  housekeeper 
of  our  hotel  before  we  left  this  island.  "We  now 
gathered  all  together,  not  expecting  to  make 
another  stop  there.  We  added  some  more  fine 
specimens  of  coral  to  our  already  accumulated 
stock,  and  put  all  in  order,  ready  for  our  trip  to 
Barbadoes.  I  must  not  omit  saying  that  we  were 
pleased  with  our  accommodations  at  the  latter 
hotel,  kept  by  an  Englishman  named  Bonelli,  the 
fare  good  and  house  well  kept. 

I  omitted  stating  the  day  before  our  departure 
the  Episcopal  minister  made  a  formal  call  on  us. 


SUGGESTIONS.  147 

He  appeared  a  kind,  affable,  and  agreeable  man. 
We  had  much  conversation  together  on  various 
subjects,  all  calculated,  we  hope,  to  make  a  good 
impression.     Before  we  parted  I  told  him  there 
was  one  thing  I  wished  to  enjoin  upon  him,  and 
as  he  was  a  professed  minister  of  the  Gospel,  I 
thought  he  must  feel  the  force  of  the  proposition, 
which  was  the  great  importance  of  holding  lec- 
tures every  evening  during  the  week  for  the  ad- 
vancement of  moral  culture.     We  had  travelled 
much  in  the  United  States,  Europe,  and  many 
other  places,  but  in  all  our  lives  before,  condens- 
ing the  whole  of  the  immoralities  we  had  ever 
seen,  they  would  poorly  compare  with  the  Danish 
Islands,  especially  St.  Croix,  adding,  "  Would  it 
not  be  a  feasible  measure,  as  well  as  greatly  to 
the  improvement  of  all  classes,  to  assemble  with 
the   better   class  of  people  on   the  island,  and 
make   this   proposition,    setting    forth   how   the. 
immoralities  looked  to  the  people  visiting  their 
island."     His  answer  was,  "Madam,  if  you  will 
find  out  the  better  class,  and  let  me  know,  I  will 
try  to  do  it;  I  should  not  know  where  to  find 
them.     I  have  been  here  so  long,"  naming  the 
time,  "  but  I  do  not  think  I  shall  remain  much 
longer."    I  believe  I  rightly  remember  his  words, 


148  JOURNAL. 

which,  I  think,  was  responded  to  by  one  of  the 
Islanders.  Notwithstanding,  there  had  been  one 
hundred  members  confirmed  by  a  bishop  from 
Barbadoes,  some  two  weeks  previous,  in  the  same 
church  in  which  he  presided. 

The  English  steamer  expected  to-night,  fourth 
month,  2d.  The  steamer  Shannon  arrived  last 
night,  and  fired  her  salute-gun  at  six  o'clock. 

Fourth  month,  3d.  This  morning  my  dear  hus- 
band went  on  board  the  Thames  to  take  our 
state-rooms  for  Barbadoes.  The  steward  told 
him  he  could  not  give  us  a  state-room  until  the 
passengers  of  the  Shannon  were  accommodated, 
on  account  of  its  being  another  English  steamer. 

At  nine  o'clock  next  morning,  the  Thames  fired 
her  signal-gun,  and  the  passengers  understood 
that  in  one  hour  she  would  sail.  We  went  on 
board  at  once,  and  took  a  state-room  outside,  and 
near  the  ladies'  drawing-room ;  it  was  small,  but 
cool,  and  we  got  on  very  well.  About  ten  o'clock 
a.m.,  we  weighed  anchor  and  left  the  port  of  St. 
Thomas  for  Barbadoes.  The  day  was  fine ;  sea 
calm;  wind  ahead,  making  the  atmosphere  de- 
lightful and  cool.  Passed  St.  John's,  and  the 
Sugar-loaf  Rock,  that  stands  elevated  and  alone 
in  the  sea,  St.  John's,  Tortola,  and    St.  Croix, 


CARIBEE    ISLANDS.  149 

not  far  distant,  whose  beautiful  mountain-peaks 
kept  in  sight  until  about  four  o'clock,  when  the 
mist  that  hung  over  them  closed  them  from  our 
view. 

These  Caribee  Islands  are  of  great  beauty, 
and  are  covered  with  verdure;  all  accounts  well 
correspond  as  to  their  productiveness  and  fertil- 
ity. It  is  wonderful  to  see  so  many  of  them,  in 
the  midst  of  the  sea,  but  fit  habitations  for  man. 
"What  blessings  are  scattered  around  us  every- 
where !  as  every  clime  has  its  multiplied  advan- 
tages. These  islands  may  well  be  called  "gems 
of  the  ocean," — so  fraught  with  beauty  and  love- 
liness. "We  remained  on  deck  as  long  as  our  eyes 
felt  like  watching  the  surging  waves  of  the  broad 
ocean.  The  stars  looked  down  upon  us  in  silent 
grandeur,  telling  mysterious  tales  of  spheres  equal 
as  well  as  far  more  wonderful  and  magnificent 
than  our  own;  proclaiming  with  silent  though 
imposing  eloquence  the  same  Almighty  Power 
that  made  us  what  we  are;  made  mankind  as  well, 
each  to  perform  a  special  mission,  while  harmony 
was  the  crown  of  all;  the  latter  with  capacities  of 
mind  for  penetrating  into  the  vast  expanse  of  the 
solar  system.  Through  science,  worlds  and  sys- 
tems of  worlds  have,  of  latter  time,  been  brought 


150  JOURNAL. 

into  view,  unknown  to  man,  save  by  tlie  wonder- 
ful power  of  genius  furnished  by  their  Great 
Original.  The  astronomer  points  his  telescope 
to  the  heavens,  and  penetrates  the  fields  of  blue 
ether,  revealing  to  man  the  wonders  of  other 
worlds ;  though  "  no  larger  in  appearance  than 
the  diamond  that  glitters  on  a  lady's  ring,  it  is 
really  a  mighty  globe."  We  indulged  in  these 
reflections  until  the  time  for  rest  called  us  to 
our  state-room,  where  all  looked  very  comforta- 
ble for  shipboard.  We  committed  ourselves  to 
"  tired  nature's  sweet  restorer,  balmy  sleep,"  after 
looking  over  in  what  manner  we  had  spent  the 
day  just  gone  from  us;  ever  bearing  in  mind  the 
importance  of  doing  the  work  of  each  day,  as  it 
passes,  that  "  no  follies  we  may  have  to  lament," 
or  that  "  we  have  lost  a  day." 

We  arose  next  morning  before  day,  in  order  to 
see  the  sun  rise.  It  is  a  sublime  sight  to  see  the 
sun  rise,  or  set,  at  sea,  appearing  as  if  it  rose  out 
of,  or  set  in,  the  ocean's  broad  bosom.  The  sur- 
rounding scenery  is  beautiful. 

A  nice  warm  breakfast,  and  then  to  our  writ- 
ing quietly  on  deck,  where  we  saw  much  that 
was  interesting. 

Our  passengers  were  about  thirty  in  number, 


ST.   kitt's.  151 

chiefly  Islanders  and  English,  and  were  mostly 
Southern  sympathizers.  "We  got  along  very  well, 
and  enjoyed  the  trip  much;  our  gentlemanly 
captain,  a  most  affable  and  agreeable  person, 
adding  to  our  comfort,  whose  kindness  we  never 
can  forget. 

The  morning  of  the  sixth  brought  us  opposite 
the  harbor  of  St.  Kitt's,  or  St.  Christopher's,  so 
called  by  some.  The  country  looked  mountain- 
ous, with  beautiful  lowland  skirting  the  margin 
of  the  sea.  It  was  cultivated  with  sugar-cane ; 
and  deep  green  foliage  was  seen  from  the  gorges. 
Small  cottages  were  numerously  placed  on  vari- 
ous estates,  for  the  accommodation  of  laborers, 
but  we  saw  no  splendid  establishments  for  the 
aristocracy. 

We  anchored  about  six  and  a  half  o'clock,  oppo- 
site the  town  of  Basitar,  where  a  number  of  pas- 
sengers were  added  to  our  list,  amongst  whom 
was  the  Archbishop  Gibbs,  of  the  Episcopal 
Church,  going  to  visit  some  of  his  parishes.  He 
looked  like  a  genteel  English  Friend,  dressing 
in  a  plain  frock  coat,  large  hat,  white  cravat, 
&c.  Here  we  procured  some  grapes,  that  were 
brought  on  board  by  colored  men.  They  were 
not  quite  ripe,  but  answered  better  than  nothing. 


152  JOURNAL. 

The  Bishop  informed  us  that  St.  Kitt's  was  one  of 
the  most  fertile  and  productive  of  the  British 
Islands;  that  their  treasury  was  full;  and  that 
their  laborers  were  paid  from  ten  cents  to  one 
shilling  a  day.  The  fields  looked  green  and 
beautiful,  and  the  hilltops  were  clothed  with  ver- 
dure to  their  summits.  The  town  is  small,  and 
wore  the  appearance  of  age  and  neglect;  the 
architecture  much  the  same  as  at  St.  Croix. 

We  passed  the  Island  of  Nevis,  which  is  sepa- 
rated by  a  strait  of  about  one  mile  wide.  It 
resembles  St.  Kitt's  in  appearance;  mountain 
rising  above  mountain ;  one  overtopping  all  the 
rest,  hiding  the  peak  from  our  view.  Passing 
these  beautiful  works  of  the  Great  Creator,  our 
admiration  was  not  merely  confined  thereto,  but 
often  had  we  to  look  from  Nature's  works  to  Na- 
ture's God.  We  passed  another  solitary  rock  in 
the  sea,  projecting  sixty  or  one  hundred  feet 
above  the  water.  Not  far  distant  was  the  Island 
of  Monserrat,  which  we  passed  without  stopping. 
It  presented  to  our  view  a  conglomeration  of 
rocks,  rising  into  mountains,  with  occasional 
peaks,  covered  with  shrubbery.  We  saw  very 
little  cultivation,  but  were  told  a  few  estates  were 
cultivated  on  it.     It  is  here  Joseph  Sturge  had 


ANTIGUA.  153 

estates,  a  celebrated  English  philanthropist.  We 
were  told  one  of  his  heirs  had  lately  been  on  a 
visit  to  them.  Off  this  island  we  saw  a  shoal  of 
whales,  and  were  informed  that  several  vessels 
had  been  employed  in  the  trade  from  one  of  the 
islands. 

About  three  o'clock,  we  anchored  in  the  har- 
bor of  Antigua,  called  English  Harbor.  It  is  a 
small  harbor,  but  well  protected  from  storms. 
There  is  no  town  here ;  merely  a  landing-place, 
and  machine  shops,  and  barracks  for  soldiers. 
As  we  passed  along  the  coast  we  saw  very  little 
culture;  a  ridge  of  hills  extending  along  the 
island,  some  distance  from  the  coast,  behind 
which,  we  were  informed,  some  few  estates  lie. 
We  passed  Guadaloupe  about  twelve  o'clock  at 
night,  without  having  any  opportunity  of  see- 
ing what  it  was  like.  Here  we  left  the  mail  at 
Point-a-Pitre. 

Moonlight  over  these  islands  adds  greatly  to 
the  interest  as  we  pass  onward.  Sitting  on  the 
deck  of  our  noble  steamer,  with  shadows  resting 
on  both  land  and  sea,  the  sight  was  often  too 
grand  to  tempt  us  to  go  below,  so  that  we  sat  in 
the  moonlight  until  a  late  hour  at  night ;  some- 
times in  contemplation,  or  prayerfully  desiring 

14 


154  JOURNAL. 

that  we  might  be  led  about  and  instructed 
by  Him  who  knows  what  is  best  for  us;  who 
will  direct  all  our  steps,  as  we  look  to  Him  as  our 
polar  star.  The  seed  of  Divine  life  has  been 
planted  in  the  Eden  of  every  soul.  "  We  have 
all  been  without  sin  there,  until  iniquity  has  been 
found  in  us."  It  is  taking  the  government  in 
our  own  hands,  that  has  driven  so  many  out  of 
Eden!  For  although  the  seed  sown  may  not 
vegetate  early  and  bear  fruit,  if  it  is  not  trodden 
down  and  crushed,  the  sunlight  of  truth  will 
ripen  it  into  a  full  development  of  its  power, — 
evincing  that  it  is  "  world-wide,  as  well  as  world- 
old,  in  its  growth,"  and  even  beyond;  as  "before 
the  mountains  were  brought  forth,  or  the  hills 
were  formed,"  this  same  principle,  or  heavenly 
seed,  was  with  the  divine  Eternal  One,  as  cer- 
tainly as  the  day  and  time  in  which  we  live.  My 
contemplations  often  wandered  off  in  this  direc- 
tion, as  I  mused  in  the  moonlight,  on  the  "beau- 
tiful sea,"  beside  the  object  of  my  happiest 
earthly  hopes ;  but,  alas,  now  no  more  beside  me, 
but  encircled  in  the  icy  arms  of  death.  Severe 
has  been  the  blow,  although  directed  in  wisdom ; 
but  well  do  I  know  Thou  only,  oh  Lord,  canst 
healing  bring !     Thou  only  can  calm  the  troubled 


DOMINICA.  155 

spirit!  and  cause  my  poor  soul  to  cling  closer  to 
Thee,  in  entire  resignation  and  holy  confidence, 
"  that  Thou  doest  all  things  well." 

At  five  and  a  half  o'clock  came  to  the  Island  of 
Dominica,  another  French  island,  which,  like  its 
fellow,  presents  a  ridge  of  hills  with  barren  tops. 
A  plantation  without  improvements  was  accident- 
ally seen  along  the  coast.  We  left  the  mail  at  the 
town  at  Prince  Rupert,  which  lies  under  high 
hills  of  irregular  formation.  There  a  number  of 
boatmen  came  alongside  with  fruit,  as  oranges, 
bananas,  shaddocks ;  also,  potatoes  and  eggs. 
Their  violent  gesticulations  and  unknown  gib- 
berish, made  a  scene  of  confusion,  and  French- 
manlike, it  seemed  as  if  every  minute  it  would 
terminate  in  a  violent  battle ;  but  fortunately  it 
passed  off  without  any  harm  being  done.  The  day 
continued  fine,  sea  delightful,  and  temperature 
very  agreeable,  and  we  pursued  our  voyage  with 
renewed  feelings  of  hope  that  all  things  would 
go  on  favorably. 

About  ten  o'clock  a.  m.  we  came  to  the  town  of 
St.  Pierre,  in  Martinico,  where  we  left  the  mail. 
The  town  looks  old  and  dilapidated  for  want  of 
paint.  There  are  no  fine  houses  seen  from  ship- 
board, but  shade  trees  are  in  great  abundance. 


156  JOURNAL. 

This  is  a  French  island,  and  presents  a  better  ap- 
pearance than  any  we  have  passed.  It  is  also 
mountainous,  with  deep  gorges  between  them, 
interlocking  each  other,  and  forming  a  channel 
for  the  water  that  trickles  down  the  mountains. 
Beneath  these  a  strip  of  lowland  is  spread  out,  on 
which  numerous  small  cottages  for  laborers  are 
placed,  and  fields  of  cane  are  cultivated  in  small 
patches,  presenting  a  picturesque  scene,  that  is 
highly  pleasing  to  the  sight.  The  mountains 
back  rise  in  magnificent  grandeur,  and  are  cov- 
ered with  shrubbery  and  stately  trees  of  the 
forest.  We  are  told  Port  Royal  stands  on  the 
east  side  of  the  island,  and  is  the  seat  of  govern- 
ment and  chief  place  of  trade.  The  land  slopes 
off  to  the  south,  with  undulating  hills,  without 
much  appearance  of  improvement.  Small  cot- 
tages are  seen  in  various  directions,  but  it  would 
seem  as  if  this  part  of  the  island  had  not  attracted 
much  attention. 

As  we  leave  Martinico  on  the  south,  with  a 
rock  elevated  fifty  feet  above  the  sea,  we  see  as  in 
a  mist  the  Island  of  St.  Lucia,  and  steering  south- 
east, in  a  few  hours  had  a  view  of  its  mountains 
and  valleys.  There  is  nothing  in  the  prospect 
that  strikes  us  as  possessing  anything  different 


ST.    LUCIA.  157 

from  the  other  islands,  except  its  barren  condi- 
tion. We  see  but  little  culture,  and  no  estates 
furnished  with  mansions  and  cottages;  neither 
windmills  or  other  factory  for  preparing  sugar. 
The  mountains  are  covered  with  shrubbery.  We 
entered  the  harbor,  on  which  stands  Castries,  the 
seaport.  It  is  a  small  place  and  has  but  little 
interest.  A  fortress  is  on  the  top  of  one  of  the 
hills  to  the  south.  A  few  houses  are  scattered 
about  the  hills, — these  are  the  residences  of  the 
grandees  of  the  place. 

Leaving  our  mail,  we  took  a  backward  direc- 
tion, and  rounded  the  northwest  end  of  the  island, 
and  directed  our  course  on  the  east  side  to  Bar- 
badoes.  Night  closed  upon  us  soon  after  leaving 
the  harbor.  This  is  an  English  possession,  and 
of  little  value,  having  very  little  exports  or  cul- 
tivation. The  day  has  been  pleasant,  although 
the  thermometer  is  from  eighty  to  eighty-six  de- 
grees. There  was  a  fair  wind,  which  rendered 
the  atmosphere  highly  delightful. 

Mght  closing  upon  us,  and  taking  a  retrospec- 
tive glance  of  life,  felt  nothing  but  poverty  of 
spirit.  A  prayerful  desire  to  be  furnished  with  a 
measure  of  Divine  love  was  the  silent  interces- 
sion of  the  soul. 

14* 


CHAPTER  XL 

Barbadoes — St.  Vincent — Landing  at  Demerara — 
Drives — Departure. 

The  night  was  passed  in  sweet  sleep,  and  on 
waking  found  ourselves  near  the  south  end  of 
Barbadoes.  As  we  approached  we  discovered  a 
ridge  of  hills  running  the  length  of  the  island, 
and  forming  the  backbone,  with  here  and  there 
a  copse  of  cocoanut  trees,  crowning  the  topmost 
peaks.  The  land  from  the  sea  rises  in  a  succes- 
sion of  small  hills,  thickly  dotted  with  small 
cottages,  and  cultivated  with  sugar-cane,  which 
the  planters  were  engaged  in  grinding,  chiefly  by 
windmills.  There  is  very  little  woodland  seen ; 
every  spot  capable  of  cultivation  is  put  into  sugar- 
cane. 

We  reached  the  harbor"  of  Bridgetown  about 
eiffht  and  a  half  o'clock.  The  town  stands  on 
the  bay,  and  extends  for  a  mile  along  the  margin 
of  the  sea.  The  houses  look  poor,  but  as  we 
pass  onward  present  a  more  inviting  appearance. 


REFLECTIONS.  159 

It  contains  twenty-six  thousand  inhabitants,  and 
is  the  capital  of  the  island. 

Here  we  parted  with  most  of  the  passengers, 
and  much  of  the  cargo,  and  remained  until  twelve 
o'clock,  when  we  weighed  anchor  and  proceeded 
on  our  voyage  to  Demerara,  with  about  twenty 
passengers,  most  of  whom  resided  there.  The 
day  was  fine,  sky  clear,  thermometer  eighty-six 
degrees,  with  southeast  wind,  which  prevented 
our  feeling  the  excess  of  the  heat.  About  four 
o'clock  we  lost  sight  of  land  for  the  first  time 
since  leaving  St.  Thomas. 

Let  us  pause  to  reflect  on  the  majesty  of  the 
Almighty  power  who  has  created  this  scene,  and 
given  genius  to  man,  to  enable  him  to  construct 
the  vast  machinery  to  plough  the  ocean,  and  nav- 
igate the  bark  to  distant  climes,  bringing  the  in- 
habitants into  unity  and  social  intercourse  one 
with  another,  extending  arts,  science,  and  civili- 
zation over  the  habitable  world.  May  we,  the 
workmanship  of  His  hands,  properly  appreciate 
these  blessings,  and  render  all  thankfulness  to 
the  great  Author.  "  Thus  doth  our  spirit  mag- 
nify Thy  adorable  name,  and  crave  light  and 
knowledge  to  perform  the  end  of  our  creation." 
Night  closed  upon  us  soon  after  six  o'clock,  and 


160  JOURNAL. 

the  sea  becoming  rather  rough,  we  retired  to  our 
state-room  to  think  over  the  occurrences  of  the 
day,  and  examine  our  hearts,  whether  in  the 
sight  of  Him,  who  created  us  for  His  glory,  we 
have  spent  the  time  agreeably  to  His  divine  will ; 
then  committing  our  spirits  to  Him  who  gave 
them,  we  quietly  sank  to  sleep. 

We  awoke  as  we  entered  the  harbor  of  St. 
Vincent,  about  five  o'clock.  The  sea  was  a  little 
rough,  wind  southeast,  thermometer  eighty ;  felt 
summer  clothing  very  agreeable. 

Fourth  month,  6th. — Another  day  has  passed ; 
our  sail  has  been  smooth  and  agreeable,  nothing 
occurring  to  break  in  upon  the  tranquillity  of  the 
scene.  We  changed  our  state-room  for  one  larger, 
but  much  more  exposed ;  it  being  in  the  middle 
of  the  deck,  we  felt  the  jar  of  the  engine;  still 
the  change  was  for  the  better.  The  morning 
was  fine,  the  thermometer  was  eighty  degrees, 
wind  southeast;  there  are  a  few  flying  clouds, 
but  no  land  to  be  seen. 

One  of  our  passengers,  a  kind  and  humane 
man,  gave  us  a  very  interesting  account  of  his 
experience  with  the  freedmen.  Some  nine  years 
since  he  went  out  into  the  interior  and  procured 
a  large  tract  of  laud,  requiring  great  labor  and 


THE    FREEDMEN.  161 

toil  to  bring  under  a  state  of  cultivation ;  suc- 
ceeding in  hiring  for  a  fair  price,  if  I  mistake  not, 
three  hundred  colored  men  with  their  families. 
Few  if  any  of  the  number  had  been  legally  mar- 
ried. He  told  them  this  must  be  the  first  step  to 
their  elevation ;  this  was  done,  and  the  rites  of 
marriage  were  from  that  time  looked  on  as  sa- 
cred. He  set  all  to  work,  either  on  the  planta- 
tions, or  in  the  erection  of  tenements  for  their 
abodes,  which,  rude  and  humble  as  they  were, 
were  their  homes,  and  no  doubt  for  the  first  time 
caused  them  to  feel  their  manhood.  They  had 
the  assurance  that  their  lives  had  fallen  in  pleas- 
ant places,  with  a  good  man,  who  took  them  by  the 
hand  to  help  them  out  of  their  degradation.  He 
was  a  Moses  unto  them,  delivering  them  from  the 
bondage  of  corruption,  and  the  cupidity  of  ungodly 
men,  and  they  confided  in  him  as  a  father.  His 
name  is  Barlow.  We  seemed  drawn  to  him,  in 
nearness  of  spirit,  at  our  first  introduction,  with 
strong  desire  to  accept  his  kind  invitation  to  pay 
him  a  visit,  and  "  see  for  yourselves,"  quoting  his 
words,  "  how  the  free  labor  system  works."  As  his 
home  was  sixty  miles  in  the  interior,  we  thought 
it  not  practicable.  Since  our  return  we  regretted 
much  we  could  not  pay  the  visit.     This  true  phi- 


162  JOURNAL. 

lanthropist  and  Christian  told  us  all  went  wil- 
lingly to  work — little  or  no  remonstrance  had 
been  required ;  the  proceeds  of  their  labor  paid 
well.  He  was  their  minister,  and  had  built  a 
chapel  on  the  estate.  The  same  in  regard  to 
schools;  he.  had  been  the  principal  for  many 
years ;  he  placed  a  high  value  on  their  literary 
improvement ;  in  short,  it  was  evident  to  us  that 
he  was  the  man  to  lay  the  foundation  for  a  reform 
in  all  slave  countries,  which,  when  others  see, 
they  may  feel  disposed  to  go  and  do  likewise. 
Much  may  be  done  in  this  way  toward  advancing 
the  great  millennium  day,  "  when  the  kingdoms 
of  this  world  shall  become  the  kingdom  of  our 
Lord  and  of  his  Christ;"  this  being  His  power 
working  in  the  hearts  of  his  children  in  bringing 
forth  good  fruits.  All  effort  then  to  do  His  will 
in  our  duty  to  our  brother,  white  or  black,  is  so 
far  advancing  Christ's  peaceable  kingdom  of 
righteousness,  peace,  and  joy  in  the  Holy  Spirit! 
This  knowledge  of  what  one  man  is  doing,  raised 
the  inquiry  in  our  minds,  If  so  much  is  being 
done  by  one  towards  the  elevation  of  the  down- 
trodden, should  a  community  engage  alike  in 
this  cause,  might  not  every  abuse  of  power  be 
restrained,  while  all  would  alike  stand  upright  ? 


THE    FREEDMEN.  163 

This  Christian  man  told  ns,  "  He  had  not  felt  at 
liberty  to  unite  himself  with  any  professing  body 
for  twenty-six  years,  all  appearing  to  him  more 
or  less  sectarian.  He  said  he  believed  in  but  one 
church,  and  that  the  church  of  Christ ;  that  its 
members  were  scattered  the  world  over;  that 
Christianity  is  to  be  applied  to  daily  life,  having 
nothing  to  do  with  sects  or  creeds ;"  saying,  "  I 
can  subscribe  to  many  of  the  tenets  held  by  all, 
but  to  none  of  their  dogmas  or  prejudices."  His 
life  seemed  devoted  to  the  improvement  and  ele- 
vation of  the  emancipated,  both  mentally  and 
physically.  From  what  we  could  judge,  nothing 
he  can  do  for  that  people  is  left  undone.  On  his 
domain  all  are  well  paid.  Each  man  can  earn 
from  twelve  to  fifteen  dollars  per  month,  the  labor 
being  performed  by  tasks,  which  requires  seven 
hours.  A  man  may,  if  disposed,  complete  two  of 
these  per  day,  worth  one  dollar.  All  cannot  per- 
form the  same  amount  of  labor.  Women  work 
in  the  fields  :  they  earn  almost  as  much  as  the 
men,  but  they  are  mostly  employed  as  house- 
keepers and  waiters.  Large  numbers  of  the  la- 
borers have  houses  and  lots  of  their  own,  while 
emigrants  and  others  less  thriving,  have  houses 
found  them,  with  as  much  land  as  they  can  culti- 


164  JOURNAL. 

vate.  Their  medical  attendance  is  gratis,  as  well 
as  the  privilege  of  schools.  All  emigrants  are 
well  paid  by  the  employers ;  some  of  them  have 
been  with  them  a  long  time. 

Nine  o'clock.  Sea-water  light  green,  then  it 
became  muddy;  at  ten  o'clock  we  descried  a 
steamer  to  the  south,  also  a  brig.  Saw  with  a 
glass  the  flag-ship.  The  tide  being  low,  we 
steered  on  for  an  hour  below  the  mouth  of  the 
River  Demerara.  "We  crossed  the  bar  about  three 
o'clock,  and  came  to  anchor  opposite  George- 
town, about  four  o'clock. 

Little  did  we  think,  on  leaving  home,  we  should 
have  extended  our  wanderings  so  far,  and  being 
about  to  land,  with  prayerful  hearts,  and  in  good 
health,  looked  forward  to  leaving  the  steamer.  It 
was  amusing  to  hear  the  crowing  of  fowls,  cack- 
ling of  chickens,  and  quacking  of  ducks  from 
our  deck,  a  goodly  number  always  being  carried, 
as  if  they  really  knew  we  had  reached  our  desti- 
nation, and  they  joined  in  hilarity  with  those  on 
board.  It  seemed  as  if  those  in  charge  of  clear- 
ing up  and  putting  all  to  rights,  moved  every- 
thing capable  of  transit,  while  water  was  thrown 
in  every  direction,  scrubbing,  dashing  over  every 
part  above  us,  so  that  it  was  not  safe  to  venture 


DEMERARA.  165 

on  deck,  unless  one  required  a  general  ablution. 
We  had  first-rate  fare  on  this  trip,  and  our  gen- 
tlemanly captain,  and  his  amiable  and  engaging 
manners,  will  long  live  in  our  remembrance. 
His  name  is  Hole,  of  the  steamer  Thames.  We 
hope  we  have  not  seen  this  worthy  man  for  the 
last  time.  We  had  no  sea-sickness  since  leaving 
Barbadoes,  for  which  we  felt  very  thankful. 

The  pilot  informed  us  that  the  business  part  of 
the  city,  called  Water  Street,  had  recently  been 
destroyed  by  fire.  On  first  day,  the  third,  it  com- 
menced, whilst  church  was  in  session,  and  was 
not  entirely  extinguished  until  next  day.  The 
destruction  was  very  great,  estimated  at  three 
millions  of  dollars. 

We  landed  about  four  o'clock,  after  much  dif- 
ficulty, which  arose  from  the  turbulence  and  bad 
temper  of  the  boatmen,  who  are  more  violent  on 
these  islands,  as  they  come  out  with  their  boats, 
than  any  other  class  of  people  with  whom  we 
have  met.  Each  seemed  determined  to  get  all  the 
passengers  in  his  boat.  Their  conduct  amounted 
to  desperation.  We  were  afraid  to  go  with  them, 
and  told  them  we  would  not,  unless  they  would 
be  quiet.  The  captain  forbade  them  coming  on 
deck,  when  one  of  those  in  whose  boat  we  thought 

15 


166  JOURNAL. 

we  should  go,  jumped  on  to  the  stairs,  as  if  to 
come  up;  that  moment  the  fourth  officer  had 
taken  me  by  the  arm  to  assist  me  down  the  stairs, 
while  my  dear  husband  was  just  behind  us,  with 
some  of  our  baggage.  The  officer  gave  the  man 
on  the  stairs  a  shove,  which  we  feared  would 
make  trouble,  throwing  him  back  into  his  boat. 
He  got  up  instantly,  and  with  his  iist  or  some  in- 
strument, knocked  the  officer  down  with  great 
force;  at  the  same  time  my  dear  husband  was 
thrown  with  violence  against  the  boat,  producing 
considerable  injury  to  his  face.  I  fully  believe  he 
would  have  been  overboard,  and  might  have  been 
drowned,  had  I  not  sprung  and  caught  him  as  he 
was  going  into  the  water. 

He  soon  recovered,  however,  and  we  were 
seated  together  in  safety,  and  we  left  the  pell- 
mell  host  behind,  after  several  of  this  class  of 
boatmen  had  received  a  few  showers  of  water 
on  their  heads,  from  the  ship. 

Took  a  carriage  for  Hamilton  Hotel,  which 
was  full  to  overflowing,  as  was  every  other  public 
house  in  the  city,  in  consequence  of  the  late  fire, 
which  was  still  burning. 

"We  should  have  had  no  accommodations  here, 
had  we  taken  no  for  an  answer.     My  dear  hus- 


ACCOMMODATIONS.  167 

band  proposed  we  should  look  further.  I  told 
him  I  would  see  what  I  could  do.  I  went  to  the 
landlady  and  asked  her  if  we  could  rest  in  an 
upper  hall,  on  the  sofa,  until  dinner;  she  said  we 
might.  In  an  hour  she  came  up,  when  I  began 
to  feel  myself  quite  at  home.  I  told  her  I  wanted 
to  go  up  stairs  with  her;  she  said,  well,  and  we 
went  into  every  room  that  would  admit  us ;  but 
all  were  to  be  filled  that  night.  At  last  I  spied  a 
little  door  some  distance  off,  to  which  1  stepped, 
and  said,  "Is  this  occupied?"  She  answered,  "I 
don't  think  it  will  be  to-night;  but  it  is  for  only 
one  person."  "Oh!"  said  I,  "it  is  sufficient  for 
us."  When  I  told  my  dear  husband  he  laughed 
heartily  at  my  perseverance,  as  well  as  contriv- 
ance. 

The  people  in  this  warm  climate  are  not  so 
fastidious  as  in  our  country;  they  are  glad  to 
get  accommodations  in  almost  any  way.  For 
ourselves  we  thought  it  a  great  favor  to  get  a 
single  bed  in  a  room  almost  without  furniture, 
while  I  eked  it  out  with  chairs;  although  we  paid 
the  same  as  if  it  had  been  a  fine  large  room. 

I  procured  some  beautiful  specimens  of  quartz, 
and  other  curiosities,  several  curious  nests  of 
South  American  wasps,  which  now  are  highly 


168  JOURNAL. 

valued,  and  grace  one  of  my  cabinets.  They  are 
of  singular  construction,  showing  that  the  great 
power  of  genius  is  not  confined  to  the  human 
mind.  The  intelligence  of  many  animals  is  won- 
derful, and  none  more  so  in  the  construction  of 
dwellings  than  the  bee  family.  One  of  these 
dwellings  is  two  stories  high,  constructed  of 
bark,  so  closely  inlaid  as  to  form  walls  twice  the 
thickness  of  heavy  pasteboard,  and  curiously 
wrought,  with  cells  in  the  upper  and  lower 
stories,  showing  much  artistic  skill,  being  beauti- 
fully mottled,  and  smooth  as  glass.  A  door  of 
entrance  is  above  the  first,  so  as  to  escape  to  the 
second  in  case  of  invasion  from  below ;  or,  as  one 
observed,  who  was  examining  it,  perhaps  it  was 
appropriated  to  all  the  children  in  the  stately 
mansion. 

The  birds  here  are  of  surpassing  beauty,  but 
as  our  curiosities  had  already  accumulated  to  a 
great  amount  for  travellers,  we  had  to  forego  the 
pleasure  of  procuring  a  collection  of  birds  and 
shining  insects.  "We  procured  one  charming 
bird,  called  the  cock  of  the  rock,  being  gold 
color,  with  a  splendid  comb.  It  is,  I  think,  about 
the  size  of  a  goldfinch. 

Our  kind  host  invited  us  to  take  a  ride  through 


PLANTS.  169 

the  burnt  district,  which  we  did.  The  fire  has 
consumed  a  large  portion  of  the  business  part  of 
the  town.  In  our  ride  we  saw  the  situation  of 
the  place  and  public  buildings.  The  town  is  laid 
out  in  sectional  streets,  crossing  each  other  at 
right  angles,  with  a  canal  running  through  the 
centre,  ornamented  on  its  banks  with  oleanders. 
The  houses  stand  apart,  two  or  three  stories  high, 
receding  a  little  from  the  street,  and  having  gar- 
dens front  and  back.  They  are  built  light  and 
airy,  and  the  streets  being  wide  and  near  the  sea, 
a  fine  breeze  is  generally  felt,  carrying  off  the 
heat,  so  that  in  reality  we  do  not  feel  it  so  sensi- 
bly as  our  own  summer  heat ;  the  thermometer 
is  from  eighty  to  eighty-five  degrees  in  the  shade. 
In  one  of  our  rambles  we  took  a  walk  through 
a  very  beautiful  public  garden.  The  exotics  here, 
as  well  as  in  all  other  warm  countries,  grow  to 
much  greater  size  and  perfection  than  with  us ; 
the  same  species  seem  like  other  plants  of  mam- 
moth growth.  Many  fine  specimens  of  roses 
grow  to  good-sized  trees,  and  cactus  from  thirty 
to  sixty  feet  in  height.  We  saw  in  many  places 
oleanders  quite  as  large  as  many  of  our  fruit 
trees;  indeed,  there  appeared  few  in  that  splen- 
did garden  that  could  be  rightly  called  flowering 

15* 


170  JOURNAL. 

plants  or  shrubbery ;  no  winter  being  there,  they 
grow  on  from  age  to  age  without  any  interrup- 
tion. Not  unfrequently  the  seeds  from  different 
trees,  more  particularly  the  cactus,  are  carried  by 
the  wind  to  other  trees,  and  find  entrance  in  every 
cavity  that  can  be  found,  where  they  vegetate 
and  take  root,  and  other  trees  branch  out  not  at 
all  of  the  same  species.  It  is  something  like  our 
mode  of  grafting,  only  this  is  self-performing, 
and  that  with  seeds  rather  than  shoots.  "We  saw 
plenty  of  them  thus  growing,  and  on  our  depar- 
ture our  kind  hostess  filled  a  small  basket  with 
these  plants,  and  we  carried  them  to  Barbadoes 
on  our  return  there,  intending  to  take  them  to 
the  United  States. 

At  this  place  we  met  some  New  Yorkers,  and 
greeted  each  other  with  much  delight;  and 
although  we  had  never  been  acquainted  before, 
the  very  fact  of  being  citizens  of  the  same  place, 
and  a  knowledge  of  each  other's  families,  brought 
us  together  in  feeling.  The  time  passed  very 
pleasantly  while  in  this  city. 

Next  morning  we  arose,  and  in  company  with 
a  very  agreeable  young  Englishman,  wTho,  as  well 
as  ourselves,  was  exploring  the  country,  rode  out 
and  spent  most  of  the  day.     On  returning,  we 


SUGAR    ESTATES.  171 

took  a  narrow  way,  which  is  often  inundated  with 
water  waist  deep,  making  it  necessary  to  travel 
about  in  boats.  Vigilance,  Belfield,  &c,  are  all 
miserable-looking  places — dirty  within,  not  a  ray 
of  comfort  about  them.  There  is  much  marshy, 
low  land  along  the  railroad,  covered  with  rush 
or  bushes,  whilst  higher  up  were  seen  cane  and 
cotton  fields.  The  improvements  all  stand  back, 
so  that  we  saw  only  one  or  two  during  the  ride. 
We  are  told  the  dwellings  are  plain,  but  the  fix- 
tures for  sugar-making  are  fine.  One  estate  has 
made  twenty-five  thousand  hogsheads  of  sugar  in 
a  year,  and  cleared  sixty  thousand  dollars.  We 
saw  other  estates,  not  so  large,  but  fine  and  pro- 
ductive; they  are  drained  by  dykes  running  from 
the  sea  to  the  interior,  as  we  could  see.  The 
whole  country  is  flat,  and  subject  to  floods.  It  is 
rich  and  productive,  but  destructive  to  health 
and  morals. 

We  are  told  it  is  a  fair  sample  of  the  country 
of  Demerara,  though  some  parts  of  British 
Guiana  are  better,  and  in  the  mountainous  re- 
gions fine  timber  and  stone  are  in  abundance, 
and  gold  has  recently  been  discovered,  and  likely 
to  be  profitable. 

The  population  of  British  Guiana  is  about  one 


172  JOURNAL. 

hundred  and  sixty  thousand.  Many  of  the  col- 
ored are  in  a  very  demoralized  condition,  living 
in  idleness  and  immorality.  From  all  the  in- 
formation we  received  here,  as  well  as  from  what 
we  saw,  they  are  greatly  debased  for  want  of 
schools  and  incentives  to  elevation.  We  saw 
many  of  the  Coolies,  as  well  as  natives,  working 
in  the  water  waist  deep.  The  country  about 
looked  terrible,  as  if  a  malaria  might  have  pre- 
vailed there.  This  place,  as  well  as  the  other 
islands  we  visited,  might  be  entirely  changed  if 
the  interests  of  colored  and  whites  were  consid- 
ered, as  there  are  great  facilities  here  for  im- 
provement. With  all  their  disadvantages,  some 
of  the  most  intelligent  informed  us  that  since 
emancipation  their  exports  had  been  far  greater 
than  during  the  whole  term  of  the  existence  of 
slavery,  and  might  have  been  greatly  enhanced 
by  the  culture  of  cotton  and  rice,  had  not  the 
English  Government  placed  all  the  staples  grown 
on  free  soil  on  a  par  with  those  of  Cuba,  Porto 
Rico,  and  other  slave-grown  labor.  They  thought 
it  very  unjust,  and  petitioned  the  general  gov- 
ernment for  protection,  praying  that  the  duties 
on  their  exports  might  be  removed,  as  they  found 
there  was  no  inducement  to  raise  many  of  their 


JOHN    BRIGHT.  173 

commodities  while  the  duties  were  so  heavy  on 
them.  John  Bright  and  others  advocated  their 
cause,  hut  were  compelled  to  give  it  up,  after 
having  made  many  enemies.  What  a  Christian 
philanthropist  is  that  noble-souled  man,  John 
Bright!  His  large  humanity  extends  to  all; 
his  spirit  is  world-wide  and  Godlike,  and  his 
good  name,  like  some  in  our  own  land,  will  go 
down  to  posterity  encircled  with  a  halo  of  sun- 
light, as  one  of  the  friends  of  human  kind,  and 
saviours  of  his  race !  He  knows  no  distinction 
of  labor  or  caste,  but  is  ever  pleading  for  the 
rights  of  all.  I  hope  to  be  permitted  to  live  to 
see  and  press  the  hand  so  often  raised  in  his  elo- 
quent pleadings  for  suffering  humanity ! 

We  now  returned  home,  riding  much  of  the 
way  on  the  seaside,  visiting  the  Arsenal,  and 
many  other  public  places.  We  arrived  in  time 
for  dinner  at  six  o'clock. 

After  we  had  taken  a  good  dinner  we  took  a 
carriage  and  drove  round  to  some  parts  of  the 
city  not  before  visited,  and  saw  more  of  their 
public  buildings  and  works. 


CHAPTER   XII. 

Eeturn  to  Barbadoes — Appearance  of  the  Country — 
Kindness  and  Hospitality — Friends'  Burial-grounds 
— Keligious  Meetings. 

We  had  advanced  now  far  in  fourth  month, 
1864,  and  were  fearful  of  meeting  excessively 
warm  weather  on  the  islands  we  were  yet  to 
visit.  Accordingly,  as  soon  as  the  steamer  was 
in  readiness,  we  once  more  embarked  on  the 
Thames,  with  much  regret,  as  we  felt  our  stay 
had  been  quite  too  short.  We  took  leave  of  our 
kind  host  and  hostess  with  feelings  of  near  re- 
gard, hoping  we  might  meet  them  again  in  time. 
If  not,  we  can  say  to  all  our  friends  whose  faces 
may  be  turned  thitherward,  try  to  find  their  good 
house. 

That  night  the  wind  was  high  and  the  sea 
boisterous ;  we  both  were  extremely  seasick,  and 
retired  to  our  state-room,  but  not  to  sleep. 
When  morning  came,  we  found  ourselves  better. 
A  good  breakfast  being  set,  we  went  down  to 


BARBADOES.  175 

the  table,  but  soon  feeling  extremely  sick,  I  re- 
sumed my  berth  as  soon  as  possible,  where  I 
remained  most  of  the  passage  until  we  made 
port,  and  dropped  anchor  oft'  the  Island  of  Bar- 
badoes. 

"We  went  on  shore  with  Captain  "Williams,  and 
felt  a  great  deliverance  in  not  having  to  en- 
counter those  ill-bred  boatmen.  We  took  lodg- 
ings at  Hoad's  Hotel,  where  we  were  nicely 
accommodated,  the  proprietor  and  wife  being 
equally  kind  as  at  Demerara. 

We  took  a  walk  the  same  evening  to  one  of 
their  markets,  the  owners  being  people  of  color. 
The  meats  and  vegetables,  as  well  as  fruits, 
seemed  quite  indifferent  to  us.  We  made  some 
purchases  of  fruits,  strolled  about  for  awhile,  and 
returned  to  our  hotel,  rather  favorably  impressed 
with  the  condition  of  the  freed  people.  They 
seemed  more  civilized,  and  we  did  not  hear  the 
wrangling  and  fighting  as  on  the  Danish  Islands. 
We  found  an  overwhelming  population  of  this 
class;  far  too  many  for  the  cultivation  of  the 
island. 

Fourth  month,  11th;  second  day.  We  have 
taken  three  walks  over  the  city,  and  find  it  a 
considerable  place ;  the  houses  are  compact,  two 


176  JOURNAL. 

and  three  stories,  built  of  stone  and  plastered; 
the  streets  are  irregular  and  macadamized  with 
limestone,  so  that  the  reflection  from  the  white 
surface  is  trying  to  the  eyes,  and  when  it  rains,  a 
white,  sticky  mud  adheres  to  the  feet  and  clothes. 
The  principal  streets  are  Broad,  Swan,  High, 
James,  and  Milk  Streets.  It  contains  about  nine- 
teen thousand  inhabitants;  the  island,  one  hun- 
dred and  sixty  thousand.  Colored  people  are 
the  most  numerous.  The  pure  blacks  are  of  the 
lower  class;  the  mulatto  takes  a  middle  rank. 
Some  fill  conspicuous  stations,  as  merchants,  me- 
chanics, and  municipal  officers.  There  are  a 
number  of  churches,  hospitals,  schools,  &c,  but 
little  provision  for  the  poor  and  destitute. 

"We  attended  the  "Wesleyan  meeting  last  even- 
ing. There  was  a  respectable  assemblage  of 
people,  white,  mulatto,  and  black.  The  black 
generally  took  the  galleries.  There  were  among 
the  mixture  some  almost  white.  There  might 
have  been  four  hundred  composing  the  congre- 
gation. 

We  find  the  people  kind  and  accommodating. 
Have  done  some  shopping;  the  stores  good  and 
assortment  general.  The  thermometer  in  shade, 
eighty-five;  in  sun,  ninety,  at  one  o'clock  p.m. 


friends'  burial-ground.  177 

There  was  a  little  rain  this  morning.  We 
went  to  the  Wesleyan  mission-house,  which 
stands  on  the  lot  once  occupied  by  "  Friends  "  for 
their  meeting-house  and  burial-grounds.  The 
dwelling  is  supposed  to  be  a  part  of  the  meeting- 
house. It  seemed  very  solemn  to  us  to  walk  over 
the  grounds  where  repose  the  ashes  of  those  once 
in  communion  with  us,  and,  as  the  expansive 
trees  waved  over  the  place  where  their  remains 
are  deposited,  it  seemed  almost  like  a  funeral 
dirge  to  their  memory.  No  mark  is  visible  to 
give  any  account  of  their  names,  the  stones  hav- 
ing been  laid  a  considerable  distance  below  the 
surface.  A  very  interesting  account  was  given 
us  of  the  Friends  who  once  lived  there,  and  we 
could  but  attribute  to  their  influence  the  better 
condition  of  the  people,  both  colored  and  white. 
Although  they  have  long  since  passed  away,  it 
seemed  to  us  that  the  Scripture  text  would  apply, 
"  They  being  dead,  yet  speak;  "  "  Go  and  do  thou 
likewise," — the  condition  of  all  classes  on  this 
island  being  in  advance  of  all  others  we  have  yet 
visited.  The  burial-ground  is  situated  on  James 
Street,  above  Lucas.  It  was  sold,  we  were  in- 
formed, by  a  Friend,  named  Gordon,  who  was 

16 


178  JOURNAL. 

the  last  relic  of  Quakerism  here,  bj  what  au- 
thority we  did  not  learn. 

In  the  evening  we  went  to  the  mission-house, 
by  invitation,  and  took  a  cup  of  tea  with  the 
minister  and  his  wife,  Henry  and  Clarissa  Hurd. 
He  was  engaged  in  church  service,  but  returned 
to  tea,  and  we  found  him  a  most  agreeable,  inter- 
esting and  intelligent  man,  and  his  wife  a  noble- 
souled  Christian,  and  highly  gifted  woman.  She 
has,  for  many  years,  been  in  the  habit  of  going 
about  in  different  parts  of  the  city,  administering 
to  the  wants,  both  spiritual  and  temporal,  of  the 
"weary  and  heavy  laden."  I  never  saw  any  one 
who  appeared  more  entirely  in  her  place;  both 
day  and  night  is  she  going  about  among  them, 
as  a  missionary  of  mercy  and  love.  Long  will 
the  memory  of  that  dear  family  be  precious  to 
me,  and  it  was  equally  so  to  my  husband. 

We  met  there  numbers  of  distinguished  per- 
sons from  the  islands;  among  them  Anthony 
G.  Ward,  who  was  a  minister  of  the  Methodist 
persuasion,  though  he  appeared  more  like  a 
Friend,  We  found  him  a  young  man  of  great 
worth,  and  we  felt  no  disposition  to  say  he  was 
not  in  his  place.     He  extended  to  us  an  invita- 


LABORING    CLASSES.  179 

tion  to  attend  his  meeting,  twelve  miles  distant, 
at  Sprightstown,  on  the  following  sixth  day. 

We  rode  out  on  the  island,  and  in  the  south- 
east part  found  the  city  quite  extensive,  with  fine 
improvements,  the  residences  of  merchants  and 
wealthy  persons,  of  both  colors.  Along  some  of 
the  streets  are  small  one-story  dwelling-houses, 
the  abodes  of  the  colored  and  laboring  classes, 
chiefly  owned  by  themselves,  and  would  cost  two 
or  three  hundred  dollars  to  build,  and  rent  from 
five  to  twelve  dollars  a  month.  The  laboring 
class  look  comfortable  and  well  clad;  quite  as 
well  as  with  us,  if  not  superior  to  many  in  our 
obscure  streets.  They  have  some  pride  of  charac- 
ter, and  look  to  elevation  through  their  conduct. 
The  country  houses  are  fine  and  the  estates  rich. 

We  passed  through  the  military  garrison, 
which  consists  of  fine  buildings  and  extensive 
parade-grounds.  We  saw  some  soldiers  parad- 
ing, and  others  exercising  their  arms,  &c.  I  felt 
sad,  that  the  object  of  man's  creation  should  be 
so  perverted  as  to  be  trained  to  killing  his  brother 
man.  We  were  highly  delighted  with  the  ride, 
and  have  to  acknowledge  we  have  seen  nothing 
so  civilized  and  comfortable  since  leaving  the 
United   States.      The   island   is   level   and   well 


180  JOURNAL. 

adapted  to  agricultural  purposes.     A  small  river 
runs  into  the  sea  at  this  end  of  the  city. 

12th.  Fair  morning;  thermometer  eighty-four; 
nice  breeze.  Rose  at  five  o'clock,  and  took  a 
ride  eight  miles,  to  the  Harrington  Estate.  We 
found  the  manager  very  civil,  highly  intelligent, 
and  well  posted  in  American  affairs.  It  was  a 
delightful  ride,  along  the  south  side  of  a  beauti- 
ful valley,  handsomely  cultivated  with  fields  of 
cane,  iu  different  stages  of  growth.  This,  is  the 
sugar-making  season,  and  most  of  the  cane  being 
fit,  we  saw  the  laborers  cutting  it  down  and  cart- 
ing the  stalks  to  the  mill,  where  other  hands  were 
employed,  grinding,  boiling,  distilling,  &c.  We 
were  told  this  estate  yields  from  three  to  four 
hundred  hogsheads  of  sugar  annually,  unless 
drought,  or  other  mishap  befalls  it.  Their  works 
are  propelled  by  steam;  and  here  we  saw  a 
steam-plough  of  fourteen-horse-power,  and  was 
told  it  operated  well.  The  agent  is  an  intelligent 
man,  and  understood  the  cause  of  our  war  better 
than  any  Englishman  with  whom  we  have  ever 
conversed.  The  country  is  sufficiently  rolling 
for  all  purposes  of  drainage.  The  roads  are  cut 
through  limestone,  which  forms  the  foundation, 
and  is  kept  in  repair  by  sand,  gravel,  and  some 


LABORING    CLASSES.  181 

other  material  placed  upon  it  as  occasion  re- 
quires. We  observed,  in  every  direction,  cot- 
tages dotted  over  the  country,  in  close  proxim- 
ity, and  in  many  places  forming  small  villages ; 
these  are  the  houses  of  laborers ;  some  belong  to 
the  estate,  and  are  rented ;  others  are  owned  by 
the  occupants.  The  number  of  laborers  con- 
stantly employed  here  is  not  more  than  fifty  to 
one  hundred  on  a  plantation  ;  at  the  time  of  crop- 
ping they  require  many  more,  and  hire  by  the 
day,  giving  two  to  four  shillings,  according  to 
the  work  they  do.  The  laboring  population  is 
much  more  numerous  on  these  islands  than  is 
necessary, — hence  emigration  must  take  place,  at 
some  future  time,  to  a  great  extent.  The  climate 
being  warm,  and  their  wants  few,  they  make 
little  answer,  and,  no  doubt,  will  remain  as  long 
as  they  can  procure  the  necessaries  of  life. 
There  is  very  little  forest  here ;  mahogany,  wild 
fig,  tamarinds,  &c,  abound.  We  were  told  the 
maguey  tree  has  a  powerful  preserving  quality, 
and  will  preserve  meat  for  a  long  time.  It  is 
used  in  hospitals  at  Demerara  for  this  purpose, 
with  good  effect.  There  are  a  few  fields  of  cot- 
ton, but  it  does  not  look  flourishing,  owing  to  the 
cane  absorbing  the  general  attention. 

16* 


182  JOURNAL. 

13th.  We  had  an  appointed  meeting  this  even- 
ing in  the  Wesleyan  meeting-house,  on  James 
Street,  near  the  milk  market,  at  the  invitation  of 
the  minister,  Henry  Hurd — the  house  one  hun- 
dred and  eight  feet  long  by  sixty  wide,  with  gal- 
leries on  three  sides.  It  was  filled  to  overflowing, 
and  the  yard  was  also  crowded, — the  largest  as- 
semblage known  there  for  a  long  time.  The 
meeting  was  given  up  to  us  to  be  held  according 
to  our  form,  and  after  a  suitable  time  the  text 
was  brought  into  view — "Who  shall  ascend  into 
Heaven  to  bring  Christ  down  from  above,"  &c.,I 
think  understanding^  and  clearly  to  most  minds, 
from  the  expression  after  the  close  of  the  meet- 
ing. They  were  called  to  the  power  of  Christ 
within  themselves ;  there  they  would  find  their 
duty  opened  in  the  clearness,  and  required  neither 
men  or  books  to  reveal  it.  The  people  sat  still 
some  time  after  the  announcement  that  the  meet- 
ing had  closed,  and  did  not  move  until  we  passed 
away.  We  made  no  arrangement  for  any  of  the 
meetings,  but  an  announcement  was  made  that  a 
meeting  would  be  held  at  Bethel  Chapel  the  fol- 
lowing evening,  at  which  we  would  be  present. 

14th.  We  rose  early  and  took  a  walk  down 
town,  along  Cheapside  Street,  and  passed  many 


RELIGIOUS   MEETINGS.  183 

very  neat  and  comfortable  dwellings,  the  resi- 
dences of  the  rich  citizens.  Their  houses  are 
surrounded  with  flowering  trees  and  shrubbery — 
the  oleander  grows  here  from  twenty  to  thirty 
feet  high,  and  the  flowers  are  also  very  large. 
The  lots  go  down  to  the  seaside.  We  passed  one 
mansion  that  had  an  arbor  of  bamboo,  leading 
from  the  porter's  lodge  to  the  circle  before  the 
door;  its  appearance  was  quite  pretty. 

Thermometer  eighty  to  eighty-two  degrees; 
gentle  breeze ;  feels  quite  pleasant  in  the  shade. 
We  are  to  take  tea  at  William  Heath's  this  even- 
ing, and  attend  the  Bethel  meeting.  We  are 
informed  by  him  that  there  is  great  poverty 
amongst  the  laboring  classes;  they  would  work 
if  they  could  get  anything  to  do,  but  the  popula- 
tion is  too  great  for  the  wants  of  the  island,  and 
hundreds  must  perish  if  rain  does  not  favor  the 
crops;  there  are  thousands  that  waken  in  the 
morning  and  know  not  where  they  can  get  a 
meal,  yet  as  we  pass  about  making  our  observa- 
tion, this  class  generally  look  comfortable.  The 
greatest  destitution  is  in  the  country. 

15th.  We  attended  Bethel  meeting  last  even- 
ing ;  W.  Heath,  the*  pastor,  is  a  man  of  kind  feel- 
ings, with  whom  we  took  tea, — going  from  his 


184  JOURNAL. 

house  to  the  meeting,  which  was  full  to  overflow- 
ing, this  being  the  largest  audience  we  have  met 
here  or  elsewhere  for  a  long  time.  The  assem- 
blage was  composed  of  both  colored  and  white. 
The  former  were  well  dressed,  the  females  wear- 
ing white  turbans  around  their  heads.  All  be- 
came quiet,  and  after  a  time  the  text  was  ex- 
plained— "  Necessity  is  laid  upon  me,  and  woe  is 
unto  me  if  I  preach  not  the  Gospel,"  calling  the 
attention  of  the  people  to  practical  righteousness, 
good  fruits,  &c.  The  people  were  attentive,  and 
seemed  satisfied  with  what  they  heard.  The 
destitute  claimed  our  attention,  the  kind  minister 
offering  to  distribute  whatever  we  had  to  bestow. 
"We  expect  to  go  to  Sprightstown  to  attend  a 
meeting  there  this  afternoon. 

16th.  We  took  the  omnibus  at  four  o'clock  for 
Sprightstown  —  Anthony  G.  Ward,  Methodist 
pastor,  who  had  appointed  a  meeting  for  us.  We 
arrived  in  good  time,  took  tea  at  the  parsonage, 
and  went  to  meeting  at  seven  and  a  half  o'clock, 
where  were  assembled  a  large  audience  of  white, 
colored,  and  black, — many  more  whites  than  I 
expected  to  see  there.  The  meeting  was  given 
up  entirely  to  us,  and  condticted  after  our  own 
order.     After  sitting  quiet  for  twenty  minutes, 


friends'  burial-ground.  185 

during  which  great  stillness  was  observed,  the 
subject  was  opened  relating  to  the  nature  of  that 
worship  which  is  acceptable  in  the  Divine  sight, 
"  God  is  a  spirit,"  &c.  The  Christian  religion  is 
simple  and  easily  to  be  understood, — love  to  God 
and  love  to  man.  The  text  was  enlarged  upon, 
and  allusion  made  to  the  new  birth  through  which 
true  righteousness  is  to  be  attained.  The  people 
were  exhorted  to  refrain  from  intemperance  and 
all  manner  of  evil,  and  come  home  to  the  gift  nigh 
in  the  heart.  They  were  remarkably  still,  and  lis- 
tened attentively  for  an  hour.  The  minister  ob- 
served afterwards  that  it  was  remarkable,  for  they 
generally  became  restive  after  half  an  hour's  dis- 
course. The  meeting  ended  satisfactorily,  many 
expressing  their  desire  for  us  to  hold  another. 

We  lodged  with  our  young  friend  Ward,  and 
took  breakfast.  We  rose  early  and  attempted  to 
visit  a  graveyard  once  used  by  Friends,  who  had 
a  meeting-house  here ;  but  it  began  to  rain,  and 
I  thought  best  to  return.  My  dear  husband  con- 
tinued on  for  half  a  mile  to  the  Episcopal  Church, 
at  the  upper  end  of  Sprightstown,  which,  with 
the  burial-ground,  is  inclosed  with  a  substantial 
stone  wall.  He  was  taken  to  the  old  part  of  the 
yard,  and  there  was  a  tomb,  with  a  flat  stone 


186  JOURNAL. 

lying  on  the  top,  the  inscription  nearly  obliter- 
ated. The  only  words  he  could  make  out  were 
John  W.,  1673.  There  were  two  other  graves 
with  marble  sides,  head  and  foot,  without  any 
inscription.  There  stands  near  the  church  an  old- 
looking  marmee  tree,  and  growing  near  there  is 
a  jessamine,  with  purple  and  white  flowers.  Near 
the  gateway  is  the  tomb  of  Benjamin  Collins, 
M.D.,  who  wras  a  reputed  Friend,  and  practised 
medicine  in  Sprightstown.  Inscribed  on  the 
tombstone  is  the  following:  Benjamin  Collins, 
M.D.,  who  departed  this  life  April  26th,  1826, 
aged  68  years. 

This  tribute  of  grateful  remembrance  is  paid 
by  his  affectionate  wife: 

"  Generous,  cheerful,  and  in  friendship  true, 
He  calmly  paid  the  debt  to  Nature  due; 
Blessed  son  of  Genius,  whose  capacious  mind, 
Open  to  Science,  to  no  branch  confined, 
He  dauntless  skilled  Botanic's  art  to  trace, 
The  many  plants  that  do  this  island  grace; 
His  country's  boast,  for  talents  found  so  rare, 
Who  knew  him  best  will  heave  a  sigh  sincere." 

We  do  not  find  any  Friends  residing  on  this 
island.  The  hand  of  time  hath  wrought  great 
changes  in  this,  as  well  as  the  other  graveyard 


A   SLAVER.  187 

we  visited.  The  ruin  seemed  to  us  deep  and  im- 
pressive. 

The  country  through  which  we  passed  was  a 
tine  agricultural  district,  containing  many  hand- 
some estates.  Numerous  little  cottages  line  the 
road  for  many  miles,  and  great  numbers  of  chil- 
dren were  running  about,  and  seemed  very  happy. 

A  friend  from  Philadelphia,  G.  W.  Loud,  called 
upon  us,  and  invited  us  to  tea  at  Joseph  Drum- 
mett's,  in  company  with  Henry  Paclgham,  a  min- 
ister, and  his  wife,  T.  J.  Cummins,  a  magistrate, 
with  many  others,  white  and  colored.  Henry 
Padgham  is  about  sailing  to  England ;  he  preached 
at  St.  James  Church  his  farewell  discourse  when 
we  attended. 

This  morning  Dr.  Hurd  preached,  on  Faith  and 
Hope,  a  good  logical  discourse. 

18th.  Called  this  morning  on  Trowbridge,  the 
American  Consul,  and  a  banker  named  Carpen- 
ter, and  some  others.  Found  it  very  warm,  and 
soon  returned  to  our  lodgings.  These  visits  were 
made  preparatory  to  our  leaving  for  Trinidad. 

An  incident  related  by  the  magistrate  above 
alluded  to  must  not  be  omitted.  "There  had 
been  a  suspicious-looking  vessel  sailing  about 
in  the  harbor  for  a  considerable  time ;  the  cap- 


188  JOURNAL. 

tain  and  some  of  the  men  on  board  would  fre- 
quently come  on  shore,  especially  in  the  evening, 
and  mingle  with  the  people  of  color ;  they  being 
white  men,  it  created  surprise.  At  last  it  came 
out  that  they  wished  to  take  some  emigrants  to 
a  certain  island,  where  they  would  receive  large 
wages  and  superior  accommodations  for  them- 
selves and  families.  As  soon  as  this  was  made 
known  the  colored  people  were  advised  to  be- 
ware ;  but  they  told  a  fair  story,  and  said  a  writ- 
ten contract  should  be  made  with  every  family 
to  carry  out  all  they  had  promised.  The  colored 
people  were  still  advised  to  be  very  cautious,  as 
all  might  not  be  right;  contracts,  however,  were 
made  out,  some  money,  perhaps,  paid  to  each. 
A  large  number  were  thus  entrapped,  probably 
sufficient  to  fill  the  vessel.  All  looked  very  fair, 
and  they  were  told  she  would  not  sail  until  a 
certain  period,  and  they  would  have  sufficient 
time  to  prepare  everything  they  wished  to  take 
with  them.  Soon  after  this  the  crew  came  to 
shore  one  night  with  a  number  of  boats,  made  a 
hasty  call  at  each  dwelling,  told  the  people  it  was 
an  imperative  command  from  the  captain  that  all 
should  be  on  board  that  night,  as  he  would  sail 
very  early  in  the  morning.      They  accordingly, 


A    SLAVER.  189 

having  all  confidence  in  the  captain,  made  ready 
as  soon  as  possible,  and  went  on  board.  As  soon 
as  they  were  all  snugly  settled  on  the  vessel  the 
captain  gave  orders  to  put  her  under  way.  The 
people  immediately  became  much  alarmed,  but 
they  were  ordered  to  be  quiet,  and.  no  notice 
taken  of  their  complaints.  They  now  saw  they 
were  decoyed,  and  that  the  vessel  was  actually  a 
slaver.  One  man  said — '  I  will  not  go ;  put  me 
on  shore.'  They  ordered  him  below,  and  told 
him  he  had  contracted  to  go,  and  should  go.  He 
instantly  jumped  overboard,  and  being  a  good 
swimmer,  reached  the  pier  from  which  he  started, 
and  ran  up  into  the  town  with  great  speed.  Stop- 
ping near  this  magistrate's  house  to  give  the 
alarm,  he  told  us  he  was  awakened  in  great  sur- 
prise by  the  cries  of  the  people  of  color.  He 
went  out  to  see  what  was  the  matter,  and  found 
them  crying  bitterly  that  their  fathers  and  friends 
had  all  been  carried  into  slavery,  which  we  feared 
might  be  true.  Information  was  conveyed  as  quick 
as  possible  to  the  Governor.  He  immediately  sent 
out  small  vessels  in  all  directions,  if  possible  to 
overtake  them  and  bring  the  people  back.  It 
was  of  no  avail.  They  returned  to  bring  the  sad 
tidings  to  their  friends,  who  were  inconsolable  at 

17 


190  JOURNAL. 

the  loss."  We  remained  on  the  island  near  two 
weeks,  but  nothing  had  been  heard  from  them 
previous  to  our  leaving. 

Is  it  not  clear  to  every  thinking  mind,  that  so 
long  as  slavery  exists  under  the  Spanish  gov- 
ernment, that  free  people  are  liable  to  be  kid- 
napped at  any  hour  ?  The  presumption  was  when 
we  were  in  Barbadoes,  that  they  had  been  taken 
to  the  Island  of  Cuba,  and  there  sold  as  slaves. 
Would  it  not  be  well  for  the  friends  of  the  slave 
everywhere  to  look  about  and  see  what  we  have 
to  do?  that  we  maybe  instrumental  in  "  unbind- 
ing every  heavy  burden,  and  letting  the  oppressed 
go  free." 

We  took  leave  of  this  magistrate,  and  the 
friends  that  we  met  there,  with  feelings  of  in- 
terest and  sympathy  not  soon  to  be  forgotten, 
many  of  them  desiring  us  to  forward  our  like- 
nesses after  our  return.  Great  numbers  called 
on  us  previous  to  our  leaving  the  island,  many  of 
them  requiring  aid,  which  it  was  our  pleasure  to 
bestow.  We  then  bade  a  long,  and  perhaps  last 
farewell  to  them  all,  having  spent  our  time  most 
agreeably,  receiving  great  kindness  and  atten- 
tion, which  we  have  much  desired  to  reciprocate 
at  our  own  home. 


FLYING-FISH.  191 

On  this  island  only,  we  saw  an  abundance  of 
flying-fish,  which  the  Islanders  consider  a  great 
delicacy.  We  found  them  quite  palatable,  but 
have  seen  no  fish  on  any  of  the  islands,  or  in 
South  America,  to  compare  with  our  own,  al- 
though we  had  no  cause  to  complain  of  our 
fare  on  this  island.  No  island,  of  all  we  visited, 
had  so  much  the  appearance  of  freedom.  The 
great  difficulty  seems  an  overgrown  population. 
We  could  say  with  the  lecturer  on  this  subject, 
that  little  elevation  could  be  arrived  at  until 
the  people  had  the  opportunity  to  bring  out  their 
talent  for  enterprise  and  perseverance,  which,  we 
believe,  many  would  evince  were  the  means  put 
in  their  power.  Great  care  should  be  taken  in 
the  proper  selection  of  a  home  in  some  distant 
land,  to  which  they  would  be  willing  to'  emi- 
grate, as  most  who  might  feel  inclined  to  do  so, 
are  like  children,  always  having  been  under  the 
control  of  others.  Much  would  be  required  to 
make  them  comfortable,  until  they  were  in  cir- 
cumstances to  care  for  themselves,  and  they 
would  be  in  great  danger  of  being  abducted  by 
the  cupidity  of  the  whites  to  some  slave  market, 
if  not  protected  by  the  English  government.  A 
large  number  of  English  families  reside  here. 


CHAPTER  XIII. 

St.  Vincent — Grenada — Trinidad — Coolies. 

Fourth  month,  20th. — We  again  embarked  on 
board  the  Thames  with  our  gentlemanly  captain, 
who  seemed  to  us  like  an  old  friend.  We  ar- 
rived at  St.  George's,  on  the  Island  of  St.  Yin- 
cent,  in  the  night.  We  had  but  an  obscure  view 
of  the  harbor  and  its  surroundings.  Continuing 
on  our  route,  we  reached  Grenada  about  seven 
o'clock  a.m.,  and  landing,  spent  the  day  in  that 
uninteresting  town  called  St.  George's,  on  the 
Isle  of  Grenada. 

We  first  made  our  way  up  a  very  high  hill  to 
a  poor  hotel.  We  went  through  the  town  and 
visited  the  fortifications.  The  town  is  built  on  a 
hill,  and  is  either  ascending  or  descending  in  all 
directions.  Houses  old  and  poor,  and  trade  next 
to  nothing.  We  went  into  half  a  dozen  stores  to 
purchase  shoestrings,  but  could  find  none  for 
sale.  Had  it  not  been  for  the  kindness  of  an 
apothecary,  we  should  not  have  been  able  to  pro- 


TRINIDAD.  193 

cure  them ;  he  induced  a  shoe  merchant  to  take 
them  out  of  a  pair  of  shoes  and  let  me  have 
them. 

There  is  a  vacant  square  in  the  centre  used  as 
a  market-place,  around  which  the  stores  are 
placed.  We  went  on  hoard  our  steamer  at  five 
o'clock,  but  did  not  leave  until  eight  o'clock.  It 
is  here  the  family  of  Captain  Hole  reside;  his  wife 
came  on  board  at  St.  Vincent ;  we  spent  the  day 
at  his  home  whilst  the  ship  was  loading.  The 
hills  look  very  barren,  covered  with  shrubbery 
of  a  wild  leafless  aspect.  A  few  fine  houses 
are  situated  on  high  hills,  overlooking  the  town. 
The  captain's  family  occupy  one  of  these. 

Continuing  on  our  voyage  we  reached  the  Port 
of  Spain,  in  the  Island  of  Trinidad,  at  seven  and 
a  half  o'clock,  on  sixth  day,  fourth  month,  22d, 
1864.  On  landing,  we  proceeded  to  Mary 
O'Brien's  hotel.  She  is  a  colored  woman,  and 
her  house  is  thought  the  best  in  the  town.  One 
of  her  daughters  is  married  to  a  white  man,  who 
looked  very  respectable,  and  they  live  well.  Her 
son  is  a  distinguished  ornithologist,  and  has  a 
vast  collection  of  birds  from  all  the  different 
islands,  as  well  as  from  South  America.  We 
felt  interested  in  this  family. 

17* 


194  JOURNAL. 

After  breakfast  we  took  a  carriage  and  drove 
through  the  town  and  its  environs.  The  streets 
run  at  right  angles.  King  Street,  being  the 
principal  street,  is  very  wide,  with  four  rows  of 
shade  trees  and  a  fountain  of  surpassing  beauty. 
The  houses  are  built  two  stories,  and  have  stores 
in  the  basement,  and  dwellings  above,  with  ve- 
randas in  front  of  them.  This  is  the  general 
style  of  building  on  these  islands.  In  our  ride 
we  called  at  the  Mission  House,  and  were  met  by 
the  minister,  Dr.  Hosford,  with  a  letter  from  Min- 
ister Iiurd.  He  had  been  apprised  of  our  coming, 
and  he  and  his  family  received  us  with  every 
kindness.  They  told  us  how  glad  they  would 
be  to  make  way  for  us  to  hold  a  meeting  there, 
and  said  they  had  made  an  appointment  for  us  to 
do  so  that  evening,  when  they  should  expect  a 
full  attendance,  and  desired  us  to  take  the  con- 
trol of  the  meeting,  and  hold  it  in  our  own  way. 
What  an  example  of  liberality,  and  how  will  it 
compare  with  our  tour  in  Europe  a  few  years 
since!  The  children  of  the  Lord  know  each 
other  in  spirit  in  every  clime,  being  taught  of 
Him.  They  sympathize  with  each  other  in  en- 
tertaining strangers,  believing  it  possible,  in  the 
words  of  Scripture,  that  in  doing  this,  they  may 


TRINIDAD.  195 

sometimes  "  entertain  angels  unawares."  We 
accepted  the  kind  invitation  for  the  meeting; 
and  having  been  invited  to  tea,  after  it  was  over 
went  directly  to  the  meeting.  Notwithstanding 
the  time  was  short,  the  meeting  was  crowded 
to  overflowing  with  all  classes.  After  a  solemn 
pause,  they  were  addressed  from  the  text,  "Ver- 
ily, I  perceive  God  is  no  respecter  of  persons," 
&c. ;  and  applying  it  to  every  class  and  nation, 
opened  the  means  of  salvation  through  obedience 
to  the  power  of  God  in  the  heart.  Those  in  high 
standing  were  exhorted  to  remember  those  of 
low  degree,  by  lifting  the  heavy  weight  from 
their  shoulders,  and  speaking  in  the  expressive 
language  of  conduct,  "Rise  up  and  walk."  The 
people  were  told  if  they  wished  to  improve  their 
island  and  the  condition  of  the  lower  classes, 
they  must  do  all  in  their  power  to  educate  and  en- 
courage morality  and  industry.  While  this  class 
were  exhorted  to  do  all  in  their  power  for  their 
own  elevation,  it  was  but  too  evident  that  a  vast 
amount  was  to  be  done  by  those  called  the  higher 
classes.  After  the  meeting  the  people  seemed 
riveted  to  their  seats,  having  to  be  told  more  than 
once  that  the  services  of  meeting  were  over.  We 
returned  to  the  Mission  House,  many  accompa- 


196  JOURNAL. 

nying  us  there.  It  was  evident  a  chord  of  feeling 
had  been  touched  that  produced  a  general  vibra- 
tion. This  kind  minister  waited  on  us  to  our 
lodgings,  and  spent  an  hour  in  friendly  and  in- 
teresting conversation. 

On  taking  leave  of  him,  he  said,  "  I  hope  to 
visit  the  United  States,  and  should  I  come  to 
Philadelphia,  your  house  would  be  the  one  I 
should  seek."  "We  told  him  that  would  be  ex- 
tremely gratifying  to  us,  and  wished  him  to  make 
our  house  his  home.  We  then  retired  for  the 
night,  in  humble  thankfulness  for  the  "  privilege 
of  breaking  bread  among  the  multitude,  who 
were  hungering  and  thirsting  for  the  bread  of 
life." 

I  omitted  to  say,  in  coming  from  Barbadoes  to 
Trinidad,  we  met  some  most  agreeable  persons, 
John  Clairmont  and  wife,  with  their  little  daugh- 
ter. His  wife  had  known  me  in  New  York, 
years  ago,  and  our  meeting  was  highly  pleasing. 
Her  husband,  an  English  gentleman,  made  him- 
self very  agreeable.  An  invitation  was  extended 
to  make  them  a  visit,  a  few  miles  out  of  the  city, 
which  we  did. 

The  meeting  with  this  lovely  young  woman 
carried  me  back   to  my  earlier  life,  when   she 


OLD    ACQUAINTANCES.  197 

knew  me  in  my  dear  native  land,  where  I  used 
oft  to  mingle  in  sweet  fellowship  with  warm  con- 
genial hearts.  But  where  are  they  now?  Gone! 
many  of  them  forever  gone  from  earthly  vision  ! 
But,  although  we  see  them  here  no  more,  or  en- 
joy their  sweet  companionship,  we  may  behold 
them  in  mental  vision,  translated  from  earth  to 
heaven,  like  so  many  bright  gems  added  to  the 
Father's  crown,  while  we  feel  bound  to  them 
by  mystic  bands,  that  even  death  cannot  sever. 
This  lovely  young  creature  had  left  every  kin- 
dred tie,  and  all  the  endearments  of  home,  leaving 
behind  her  a  fond  and  loving  mother,  and  came 
to  a  land  of  strangers  to  reside.  I  felt  great 
sympathy  for  her,  still  in  her  youth,  sweet  and 
lovely.  Her  husband,  a  most  polite  and  accom- 
plished gentleman,  appeared  to  leave  nothing  un- 
done to  promote  her  happiness ;  but  it  was  too 
evident  that  the  want  of  a  mother's  loving  coun- 
sel was  felt.  It  seemed  as  if  she  could  have  ex- 
claimed, in  the  beautiful  lines  of  the  poet, — 

"  Backward,  turn  backward,  oh  Time,  in  your  flight! 
Make  me  a  child  again,  just  for  to-night. 
Mother,  come  back  from  the  echoless  shore  I 
Take  me  again  to  your  heart,  as  of  yore. 


198  JOURNAL. 

Kiss  from  my  forehead  the  furrows  of  care, 
And  smooth  the  brown  locks,  once  ringlets  so  fair. 
Slumber's  soft  calm  o'er  my  heavy  lids  creep, — 
Bock  me  to  sleep,  mother,  rock  me  to  sleep. 

"  Come,  let  your  brown  hair,  just  lighted  with  gold, 
Fall  on  my  shoulders  again,  as  of  old ; 
Let  it  drop  over  my  forehead  to-night, 
Shading  my  faint  eyes  away  from  the  light ; 
For,  with  its  sunny  edge  shadows  once  more, 
Happy  will  linger  the  visions  of  yore ; 
Lovingly  soft,  its  bright  billows  sweep, — 
Kock  me  to  sleep,  mother,  rock  me  to  sleep." 

THE    ANSWEK. 

"  My  child,  my  child,  thou  art  weary  to-night ; 
Thy  spirit  is  sad,  and  dim  is  the  light ; 
Thou  longest  again  for  my  loving  care, 
For  my  kiss  on  thy  lips,  for  my  hand  on  thy  hair ; 
But  angels  around  thee  their  loving  watch  keep ; 
And  angels,  my  child,  will  rock  thee  to  sleep. 

"  Thou  shouldst  not  weary,  my  child,  by  the  way ; 
But  watch  for  the  light  of  that  brighter  day. 
Count  not  thy  trials  or  efforts  in  vain ; 
They  will  bring  the  light  of  thy  childhood  again. 
Tire  not  of  sowing,  for  others  to  reap; 
For  angels,  my  child,  will  rock  thee  to  sleep. 

"  Nearer  thee  now,  than  in  days  that  are  flown  ; 
Purer  the  lovelight  encircling  thy  home  ; 


OLD     ACQUAINTANCES.  199 

Far  more  enduring  the  watch  for  to-night, 
Than  e'en  a  mother's  presence,  away  from  this  light. 
Soon  the  dark  shadows  will  linger  no  more, 
Nor  come,  at  thy  call,  from  the  opening  door; 
But  know  thou,  my  child,  that  angels  watch  keep  ; 
And  soon,  very  soon,  will  rock  thee  to  sleep." 
****** 


What  seemed  an  additional  weight  of  care  on 
the  mind  of  this  young  creature  was,  they  had 
one  darling  little  girl,  a  rosebud  of  six  years,  the 
pride  and  sunbeam  of  the  household,  whom  they 
were  going  to  take  to  England  to  be  educated, 
and  leave  her  with  her  husband's  family,  prob- 
ably for  many  years, — schools,  such  as  they 
thought  suitable,  could  not  be  found  on  the 
island.  They  were  to  embark  in  a  short  time. 
We  parted  from  them  with  much  regret,  and 
could  but  hope  we  might  meet  again. 

During  the  time  of  our  stay  with  them  they 
drove  us  through  different  parts  of  the  island. 
We  went  out  on  the  savanna,  a  beautiful  spot, 
where  stands  a  neat  cottage,  which  had  been 
built,  not  long  before,  for  the  reception  of  the 
Prince  of  Wales. 

I  omitted  to  mention  that  Conrad  F.  Stoll- 
meyer  called  upon  us,  soon  after  our  arrival  on 


200  JOURNAL. 

the  island.  He  married  a  daughter  of  Jacob 
Snyder,  of  Philadelphia.  He  heard  of  us  from 
the  manager  of  the  London  and  Colonial  Bank, 
in  Trinidad,  and  on  mentioning  our  names  to  his 
wife,  she  recollected  that  my  dear  husband  had 
attended  her  mother  in  her  illness,  in  years  gone 
by.  She  requested  her  husband  to  call  on  us, 
which  he  did.  He  informed  us  that  he  had 
edited  a  newspaper  in  Philadelphia,  some  years 
since,  advocating  Abolition  views,  and  received 
much  reproach  in  consequence;  that  he  was  in 
Philadelphia  at  the  time  the  Pennsylvania  Hall 
was  burned,  &c.  We  found  him  a  very  communi- 
cative man,  and  highly  intelligent;  presuming 
from  what  we  heard,  that  he  was  president  of  the 
Pitch  Lake  Company,  and  engaged  in  a  general 
commission  business.  A  very  pressing  invitation 
was  sent  by  the  wife  to  take  tea  with  them  the 
next  evening,  which  we  accepted. 

That  day  we  had  driven  through  a  mountain- 
ous country,  along  Maraval  Valley,  the  wild- 
est and  most  picturesque  scenery  we  beheld  on 
any  of  the  islands.  This  valley  has  a  reser- 
voir, that  supplies  the  town  with  water.  We 
fulfilled  our  promise  with  the  Stollmeyers,  and 
took  tea  with  them.    We  spent  a  couple  of  hours 


COOLIES.  201 

very  agreeably,  and  found  them  highly  interest- 
ing people,  and  were  conducted  to  our  lodgings 
by  father  and  son,  who  promised  to  see  us  on 
board  of  the  steamer  next  morning.  They  ac- 
cordingly called,  and  having  engaged  a  boat  for 
our  use,  we  were  placed  on  board  in  good 
time.  Our  visit  to  this  interesting  family  will 
long  be  held  in  remembrance.  They  gave  us 
some  beautiful  specimens  of  minerals,  and  nut- 
megs, cinnamon,  and  vanilla  beans,  all  produc- 
tions of  the  island.  Since  our  return  we  have 
been  in  correspondence  with  them. 

The  people  on  this  island,  proprietors  of  plan- 
tations, brought  over  large  numbers  of  Coolies, 
many  years  ago,  but  of  whom  they  now  appear 
to  be  heartily  sick, — many  of  them  being  im- 
moral in  their  habits  and  extremely  idle.  We 
saw  them  in  considerable  numbers  lounging  care- 
lessly about  under  the  trees,  appearing  to  do 
nothing  for  their  own  support.  The  Islanders 
would  be  glad  to  encourage  emigration  from  the 
United  States,  as  a  great  portion  of  their  island 
is  uncultivated.  It  is  thought  the  example  of 
the  Coolies  has  had  a  very  deleterious  eifect  upon 
the  people  of  color,  and  they  wish  to  rid  them- 
selves of  them,  if  possible.     The  population  of 

18 


202  JOURNAL. 

colored  people  does  not  seem  sufficient  to  culti- 
vate that  island,  which  is  the  cause  of  their  de- 
sire to  promote  emigration.  "We  heard  of  no 
unkind  treatment  to  the  freed  people,  and  saw 
less  degradation  than  on  any  other  island  we  vis- 
ited, except  Barbadoes.  The  Port  of  Spain  is 
rather  a  clean  and  pretty  city  for  the  West  In- 
dies. Main  Street,  with  four  rows  of  trees,  and 
fountains,  with  a  cathedral  at  the  upper  end 
standing  in  the  centre,  makes  quite  a  handsome 
appearance.  The  houses  are  two  stories,  with 
stores  below,  dwellings  above;  with  verandas, 
which  make  them  cool  and  pleasant.  There  is  a 
square,  with  trees  and  walks,  opposite  the  public 
buildings,  and  the  citizens'  dwellings  are  scat- 
tered throughout  the  city  and  environs.  The 
Governor's  house  forms  a  place  of  attraction. 
It  is  a  large  and  pretty  building.  The  Ice  House 
is  a  place  of  great  note  for  anything  desired  in 
the  way  of  delicacies.  The  proprietor  told  us 
the  ice  business  alone  would  be  a  poor  concern, 
but  when  connected  with  other  things,  it  is  made 
to  answer  a  good  purpose.  We  saw  but  little  of 
the  improvements  of  the  island. 

Pitch  Lake  is  a  place  of  attraction ;  a  large 
collection  of  asphaltum  is  constantly  collecting; 


PORT   OF   SPAIN.  203 

in  many  places  it  is  hard  enough  to  bear  a  horse 
and  rider,  in  others  there  is  water  flowing.  The 
pitch  is  in  a  fluid  state. 

The  staples  here,  as  on  the  other  islands,  are 
sugar,  molasses,  and  rum.  Some  cotton  and 
coffee  are  raised,  but  sugar  is  the  great  staple. 


CHAPTER   XIV. 

Barbadoes — St.  Vincent — Burial  at  Sea — Martinique 
— Dominica — Guadaloupe — Antigua — St.  Kitt's — Re- 
turn to  St.  Thomas. 

Fourth  month,  24th,  1864.  On  first  clay  morn- 
ing, at  six  o'clock,  we  left  for  the  ship,  and  got 
under  way  for  St.  Thomas  about  eight  o'clock 
a.  m.,  directing  our  course  west  to  Grenada, 
reaching  the  town  about  five  o'clock.  The  cap- 
tain visited  his  family,  whilst  the  ship  remained 
at  anchor  until  twelve  o'clock,  when  we  again 
got  under  way. 

The  harbor  is  surrounded  with  high  hills,  and 
has  in  front  a  rock,  on  which  stands  a  fortifica- 
tion that  shuts  the  harbor  out  from  view  of  the 
sea,  making  it  as  clear  as  a  river.  It  is  a  very 
mountainous  island,  with  little  appearance  of  cul- 
ture along  the  sea-coast.  Through  the  interior 
sugar,  cocoa,  and  cotton  are  cultivated. 

As  in  most  other  places,  the  poor  colored  man 
is  here  in  degradation ,  held  up  as  lazy  and  worth- 
less, and  always  spoken  of  as  little  above  the 


INTOLERANCE.  205 

brutes,  and  only  fit  for  servants, — views  we  could 
not  entertain.  In  our  conversations  with  the 
whites  and  mulattoes,  who  were  as  intolerant  of 
color  as  the  whites,  we  constantly  maintained 
that  the  treatment  they  received  from  the  higher 
classes,  as  they  called  themselves,  tended  to  de- 
grade them  in  their  own  estimation,  and  although 
there  were  many  exceptions  to  this  rule,  yet  they 
must  acknowledge  their  habits  and  want  of  self- 
respect  kept  them  in  a  wretched  and  degraded 
state,  and  that  the  conduct  of  the  whites  towards 
them,  tended  to  establish  it;  while  kindness  and 
Christian  counsel  and  assistance  would  promote 
different  feelings,  and  induce  them  to  rise  in  the 
scale  of  human  existence. 

Many  were  the  conversations  we  had  with  the 
would-be  lords  of  the  Caribees  against  the  course 
they  were  pursuing  towards  them.  A  man  and 
his  wife,  who  came  on  board  at  Grenada,  under- 
took to  defend  them,  saying  they  were  an  idle, 
worthless  set  of  beings;  that  it  was  force  only 
that  induced  them  to  labor,  and  they  would 
never  be  anything  else  but  degraded.  We  told 
them  we  believed  it  under  their  present  system. 
He  then  said,  "  You  do  not  suppose  we  get 
along  here  without  whipping,  do  you  ?     If  you 

18* 


206  JOURNAL. 

do,  you  are  greatly  mistaken  ?"  I  told  him  I  did 
not  suppose  that  barbarity  was  still  practised ;  he 
said  it  is,  and  on  other  islands  too,  and  it's  all 
right.  He  then  turned  to  me  and  said,  "Are  you 
writing  a  book?"  I  said,  I  can  scarcely  answer 
that  question.  He  then  said,  "  Do  you  suppose 
you  are  capable  of  giving  a  correct  account  of 
the  West  India  Islands  the  little  time  you  have 
been  on  them?"  Without  answering  his  ques- 
tion, I  asked  him  if  he  thought,  had  he  been  six 
months  in  the  United  States,  and  a  close  observer 
of  all  that  he  saw  or  heard,  whether  he  would 
consider  himself  possessed  of  sufficient  informa- 
tion to  write  a  book  ?  His  answer  was  "  I  don't 
know."  I  told  him  I  thought  it  was  very  easy 
to  know.  I  then  reminded  him  of  one  of  their 
countrywomen,  Harriet  Martineau,  who  went  fly- 
ing through  the  United  States  a  few  years  ago, 
and  with  telegraphic  speed,  and  it  appears  she 
was  able  to  write  a  book,  and  thought  she  had 
become  thoroughly  conversant  with  the  manners 
and  customs  of  the  people  of  the  United  States, 
and  every  incident  connected  therewith,  and  I 
think  the  time  was  very  short  she  spent  in  Amer- 
ica. They  soon  left  us,  and  we  saw  no  more  of 
them. 


THE   VOYAGE.  207 

We  arrived  at  St.  Vincent  at  six  o'clock  a.  m.  ; 
we  did  not  land  at  this  time,  the  steamer  only  re- 
maining long  enough  to  change  the  mail.  Leav- 
ing about  seven  o'clock,  we  directed  our  course  to 
Barbadoes,  in  the  harbor  of  which  we  arrived  at 
seven  o'clock  p.  m.,  but  did  not  go  ashore. 

We  had  been  extremely  seasick  nearly  all  the 
passage  from  Trinidad  to  this  port,  which  makes 
one  feel  wretchedly,  and  not  unfrequently  calls 
forth  the  exclamation,  "  Oh !  if  I  ever  reach  land 
again,  this  will  be  my  last  sea-voyage."  Such  a 
conclusion  is  often  like  writing  in  the  sand;  and 
when  again  seated  on  deck,  with  interesting  com- 
pany of  a  moonlight  evening,  and  the  sea  calm 
and  beautiful,  we  more  often  say,  "What  a  lux- 
ury !  how  charming  a  moonlight  evening  at  sea!" 

Fourth  month,  25th,  1864. — A  fine  shower  of 
rain  fell  through  the  night,  which  refreshed  the 
atmosphere.  Here  we  were  joined  by  an  acces- 
sion of  passengers,  among  the  number  our  young 
friend  A.  G.  Ward,  the  minister  at  Sprightstown, 
on  his  return  to  England.  By  him  we  received  a 
note  from  Clarissa  Hurd,  whose  delicate  health 
prevented  her  from  coming  on  board,  as  was  an- 
ticipated, to  bid  us  farewell. 

We  had  on  the  ship  a  number  of  sick  soldiers, 


208  JOURNAL. 

whom  we  had  brought  on  from  one  of  the  other 
islands.  It  was  soon  ascertained  one  of  them 
was  likely  to  die.  That  evening  young  Ward 
was  summoned  to  his  bedside.  He  told  us  on 
his  return  the  man  seemed  entirely  tranquil,  and 
desired  to  go  home,  then  saying,  "I  expect  to 
meet  my  wife  in  Heaven;"  he  said  but  little 
more  before  he  closed  his  eyes  in  death.  His 
remains  were  then  wrapped  in  a  tarred  sail-cloth, 
and  next  morning  at  eight  o'clock  preparations 
were  made  for  the  funeral.  Everything  was  re- 
moved from  the  lower  deck  near  the  wheel- 
house  ;  a  bier  was  placed  upon  the  platform  that 
overhangs  the  sea,  on  which  the  remains  were 
deposited,  with  the  English  colors  thrown  over 
it.  All  the  sailors  were  dressed  in  their  best 
attire — I  think  in  white.  It  was  truly  a  most 
solemn  and  imposing  scene.  The  passengers 
stood  around,  all  who  were  able  to  come  on 
deck,  where  sorrow  could  be  seen  on  every  face. 
Our  humane  and  dignified  captain  read  the 
church  service  in  a  most  impressive  manner,  and 
when  he  came  to  that  part  of  the  service,  "We 
commit  dust  to  dust,  and  ashes  to  ashes,"  he 
changed  the  words,  by  saying,  "  We  commit  this 
body  to  the  deep,"  when  some  of  the  officers  that 


BURIAL   AT   SEA.  209 

stood  near  the  bier  gently  allowed  it  to  slide 
noiselessly  from  its  place,  without  even  removing 
the  colors.  A  dash  was  heard  in  the  sea — the 
waves  had  swallowed  up  the  lifeless  remains — 
the  sea  had  received  its  dead,  aud  all  was  over! 
I  cast  my  eyes  around  over  the  passengers  and 
sailors,  and  believed  there  was  not  one  in  whose 
eye  the  tear  did  not  gather;  all  were  made  to 
feel  that  this  man,  too,  was  their  brother.  It 
was  with  some  difficulty  the  tender-spirited  com- 
mander could  read  the  service,  he  seemed  to  feel 
so  deeply  the  solemnity  of  the  occasion.  For  my- 
self, I  had  often  heard  of  "  burials  at  sea,"  but 
none  can  form  an  adequate  conception  of  the 
solemnity  that  comes  over  every  mind  when  the 
sad  scene  is  carried  out  in  their  midst.  We  are 
led  to  reflect  on  the  short  life  of  man,  the  termi- 
nation of  all  his  designs  and  hopes,  the  silence 
that  now  reigns  over  him,  who  a  little  while  ago 
was  so  busy  and  so  gay.  The  end  of  all  things 
here  is  vividly  portrayed  on  such  an  occasion. 
Home  and  friends  the  lone  one  hoped  soon  to 
meet ;  all  had  to  be  given  up ;  the  mandate  of 
Death  had  gone  forth,  and  would  not  be  denied. 
I  rejoiced  in  spirit  to  find  that  his  hopes  were 
fixed  on  that  higher  life  beyond  the  narrow  con- 


210  JOURNAL. 

fines  of  the  grave ;  that  his  spirit  would  witness 
a  transition  to  that  blest  abode  where  angels 
only  dwell,  and  years  have  no  ending !  There 
we  will  leave  this  solemn  scene. 

26th.  Leaving  Barbadoes  and  its  harbor  about 
three  o'clock  p.m.,  we  passed  on  to  Castries,  the 
town  of  entry  to  St.  Lucia,  at  six  o'clock  p.m., 
and  after  a  short  trip  passed  St.  Pierre,  in  Mar- 
tinique, about  twelve  o'clock  at  night.  It  is  one 
of  the  French  islands,  and  said  to  be  in  a  better 
state  of  cultivation  than  most  of  the  English 
ones.  Thence  to  the  Island  of  Dominica,  which 
is  a  small  place,  by  five  o'clock  a.m.  ;  thence  to 
Bastaire,  on  the  Island  of  Guadaloupe,  which  is 
also  held  by  the  French,  by  ten  o'clock.  It  is 
an  old-looking  place,  standing  on  the  harbor, 
with  a  boulevard  and  ornamental  trees,  giving 
it  an  airy  and  pleasant  appearance.  The  country 
is  hilly,  but  we  saw  in  passing  along  the  coast 
more  of  cultivation  than  in  some  of  the  other 
islands.  We  came  again  to  the  English  harbor 
of  Antigua  at  five  o'clock  p.m.  "We  passed  St. 
Kitt's  at  six  o'clock  p.m.,  and  landed  our  friend 
Ward  at  twelve  o'clock  at  night. 

Continuing  our  passage,  we  arrived  in  the  har- 
bor of  St.  Thomas  at  three  o'clock  p.m.,  having 


ST.    THOMAS.  211 

been  extremely  sick  during  the  passage  from 
Trinidad.  We  now  bade  adieu  to  our  kind  Cap- 
tain Hole  and  crew  of  the  Thames,  with  whom 
we  had  been  agreeably  associated  for  one  month 
among  the  Caribee  Islands  and  South  America. 

We  found  here  our  faithful  boatman,  as  on 
former  occasions,  ready  to  take  us  on  shore,  and 
went  directly  to  the  Commercial.  Our  landlord 
had  been  apprised  of  our  coming,  and  had  a 
room  ready  for  us.  Our  old  waiter,  John  Shil- 
ling, we  found  here,  as  well  as  the  kind  colored 
housekeeper,  Martina.  We  remained  at  this 
place  until  the  vessel  was  ready  to  sail  for  Ber- 
muda. Finding  Captain  Watlington  at  this  port, 
he  gave  us  an  account  of  some  of  our  fellow- 
boarders  at  Santa  Cruz,  who  had  gone  on  to  the 
United  States, — among  these  Dr.  Henderson  and 
wife  from  New  Jersey,  and  Shotwell  from  New 
York,  of  whom  we  have  spoken. 

The  day  following  our  arrival  numbers  of  our 
fellow-boarders  came  on  from  Santa  Cruz  to 
St.  Thomas;  among  them  Breneman,  wife  and 
daughter,  from  Pennsylvania,  Dr.  Shippen, 
mother  and  sister,  from  Philadelphia,  with  a 
highly  respectable  colored  man  in  attendance, 
all  waiting  for  a  passage  to  the  United  States. 


212  JOURNAL. 

Some  of  them  sailed  before  our  steamer  was 
ready,  and  others  followed  after  us. 

As  we  were  detained  on  the  island  awaiting 
the  steamer,  we  concluded  one  morning  to  ascend 
its  highest  peak.  It  required  two  hours  for  us 
to  walk  up.  On  the  way  we  stopped  many  times 
to  admire  beautiful  shrubs,  wild  flowers,  and  or- 
namental trees  that  skirted  either  side  of  the 
road.  To  our  surprise  we  saw  on  many  of  the 
trees  huge  protuberances,  some  of  them  of  great 
size,  one  being  two  feet  in  diameter.  They  re- 
sembled a  black  bag.  Some  were  suspended 
from  the  trees,  others  snugly  fastened  among  the 
limbs,  and  others  again  were  near  the  roots  of 
the  trees.  We  could  not  imagine  what  they 
were,  as  we  had  never  seen  anything  of  the  kind 
before.  Each  of  us  having  a  stick,  we  thought 
we  would  give  one  near  the  foot  of  the  tree  a 
little  strike,  when  lo  and  behold  !  out  jumped  an 
innumerable  army  of  ants,  like  grasshoppers  for 
multitude,  as  they  could  not  be  numbered.  They 
ran  to  and  fro,  and  seemed  disposed  to  make  war 
upon  us,  as  we  had  attacked  their  strong  citadel, 
and  fearing  their  anger  we  hastened  from  them 
with  much  speed. 

The  mountain  which  we  ascended  I  think  must 


ANTS.  213 

be  many  thousand  feet  above  the  principal  part 
of  the  town.  On  the  top  of  the  highest  peak  we 
found  a  splendid  dwelling,  the  habitation  of  some 
of  the  aristocracy  who  have  passed  away.  The 
place  looked  as  if  little  interest  was  manifested 
in  keeping  it  in  order ;  every  part  seemed  dilapi- 
dated. We  wandered  about  some  time  among: 
the  rocky  cliffs.  We  saw  no  one  about  save  an 
old  colored  cook;  but  on  descending  met  several 
young  men  on  horseback  going  up  the  declivity. 
The  aged  woman  told  us  they  had  rented  the 
premises  for  a  retreat  during  the  hottest  part  of 
the  season,  when  liberated  from  business.  It  is 
considered  a  great  feat  for  strangers  to  ascend  to 
the  top.  In  our  descent  we  were  very  careful 
not  to  place  ourselves  in  battle  array  with  the 
army  of  ants  we  met  in  ascending. 

It  reminded  us  of  the  army  of  ants  we  saw  in 
Cuba,  six  miles  out  of  Havana,  where  we  went 
on  an  excursion  with  a  friend  from  the  British 
Provinces.  Those  were  far  more  docile;  for 
although  we  disturbed  their  repose  in  their  quiet 
resting-place,  they  seemed  entirely  harmless,  com- 
ing out  a  living  army,  walking  with  nice  precis- 
ion Indian  file,  each  with  a  complete  umbrella 
over  his  head.     This  seems  almost  an  incredible 

19 


214  JOURNAL. 

relation,  but  has  been  given  with  strict  regard  to 
truth. 

We  called  each  other  to  the  novel  scene,  and 
examined  carefully  of  what  the  umbrellas  con- 
sisted, and  found  them  to  be  a  piece  of  delicate 
leaf  over  every  head.  These  were  the  large 
black  ants.  Does  it  not  wonderfully  illustrate 
the  wise  provision  made  by  the  Creator  for  all  his 
creatures,  giving  even  the  little  emmet  tribe  suf- 
ficient reason,  or  instinct,  to  build  houses  and 
shield  themselves  from  the  tropical  sun,  as  well 
as  to  provide  sustenance  to  sustain  life  ? 

We  are  still  waiting  here  for  a  vessel  to  sail  to 
Bermuda,  and  the  people  were  desirous  we  should 
be  present  at  another  of  their  meetings;  we  have 
concluded  to  assemble  with  them  at  Cocoanut 
Square. 

There  was  a  great  concourse  of  people  gath- 
ered, from  white  to  ebony.  After  a  solemn  pause 
the  subject  was  illustrated — "He  is  a  free  man 
whom  the  truth  makes  free,  and  all  are  slaves 
beside,"  desiring  the  people  to  reflect  how  this 
text  should  be  applied;  and  now  that  the  chains 
of  bodily  servitude  had  been  broken,  did  they 
sufficiently  appreciate  the  sacred  boon  of  liberty, 
or  did  they  abuse  it  by  habits  of  intemperance, 


A   SERMON.  215 

idleness,  and  debauchery?  Although  this  was 
the  result  of  the  slave  system,  and  they  were 
laboring  under  great  disadvantages,  yet  all  peo- 
ple had  it  in  their  power  to  be  moral,  and 
refrain  from  habits  of  intemperance;  that  I 
noticed  in  the  first  story  of  our  hotel,  on  one 
side  a  place  of  business,  a  tailor  shop,  where 
many  were  industriously  engaged,  with  little  in- 
termission, from  early  morn  to  darksome  night, 
accumulating  substance  against  a  time  of  need; 
while  on  the  other  side  was  a  miserable  grog- 
shop, where  drinking,  carousing,  and  swearing, 
was  the  programme  for  each  succeeding  day. 
We  saw  them  staggering  from  the  door  into  the 
streets,  ready  for  any  kind  of  violence  that  might 
come  in  their  way. 

I  also  interrogated  the  whites  whether  they 
had  used  the  sacred  boon  of  freedom  as  God  had 
ordained?  Had  they  set  an  example  for  the 
people  of  color  worthy  of  imitation  ?  Had  those 
high  in  the  scale  of  human  existence  reached  out 
a  friendly  hand  for  their  help  ?  Had  they  lifted 
the  heavy  burden  from  their  shoulders  and  said, 
Arise  and  stand  upon  your  feet  ?  It  was  found 
this  had  not  been  the  case,  but  they  had  allowed 
the  downtrodden  to  continue  in  their  degrada- 


216  JOURNAL. 

tion,  without  much  feeling  on  the  subject.  The 
meeting  closed  under  a  feeling  of  much  solem- 
nity; many  came  to  take  us  by  the  hand,  and 
express  their  gratitude. 

Before  leaving  the  island  we  paid  a  visit  to  E.. 
Swift  and  daughter,  and  to  the  American  consul 
and  wife. 

The  steamer  for  Bermuda  did  not  arrive  until 
the  tenth.  "We  went  on  board  and  found  but 
few  passengers,  and  were  well  accommodated. 
There  was  a  sick  gentleman  on  board,  a  resident 
of  St.  Thomas.  Our  steamer  is  called  the  Alpha, 
Captain  Hunter.  We  weighed  anchor  at  three 
and  a  half  o'clock,  and  after  getting  out  of  the 
harbor,  directed  our  course  northward,  with  a 
fair  wind  from  southeast.  We  glided  along,  at 
the  rate  of  nine  knots,  for  our  destined  port, 
Bermuda,  passing  several  small,  barren  islands 
along  the  main  Island  of  St.  Thomas,  until  night 
appeared,  and  we  again  retiring  endeavored  to 
crave  the  protection  of  Him  who  suffereth  not  a 
sparrow  to  fall  to  the  ground  without  His  notice, 
and,  resigning  ourselves  to  His  almighty  care, 
sank  to  rest. 

Our  passengers  consisted  of  Isabella  Grinnell, 
wife  of  Robert  Grinnell,  of  the  firm  of  Grinnell 


BERMUDA.  217 

&  Minturn,  now  in  the  army ;  a  young  man  from 
St.  Thomas,  one  of  our  company,  whom  we 
found  a  very  agreeable  person,  was  on  his  way  to 
Philadelphia  to  consult  a  surgeon  in  reference  to 
a  diseased  jaw.  He  paid  us  a  visit  at  our  own 
house,  during  his  stay  in  this  city.  Weather  was 
fine  on  our  voyage,  but  sea  rough,  and  we  were 
both  very  seasick.  We  spoke  the  ship  Rio,  go- 
ing to  Baltimore. 

14th.  Rained  hard  through  the  day  and  night. 
It  was  quite  cool,  requiring  a  change  of  clothing; 
our  latitude  28°  30' ;  wind  southeast.  Both  are 
so  seasick,  we  made  up  our  minds  we  would 
have  enough  of  the  sea,  if  we  reached  home 
once  more. 

Wind  continues  fair,  temperature  cool,  and 
steering  forward  on  our  way,  we  expect  to  get 
into  harbor  by  twelve  o'clock.  Took  a  pilot 
about  eleven  o'clock. 

The  day  is  damp  and  foggy.  As  we  ap- 
proach St.  George,  Bermuda,  we  discovered  a 
group  of  islands,  green  and  beautiful,  but  with- 
out culture.  We  enter  the  harbor  of  St.  George 
through  a  narrow  frith,  and  coming  to  anchor 
about  twelve  o'clock  m.,  landed  in  a  small 
boat,  and  making  our  way  up  to  Hayward's  Ho* 

19* 


218  JOURNAL. 

tel,  found  we  could  not  be  accommodated,  and 
were  referred  to  the  other  hotel,  which  looked 
dark  and  uncomfortable.  Meeting  with  some 
of  the  boarders,  who  looked  like  blockade-run- 
ners, we  felt  glad  when  told  we  could  not  be 
accommodated,  as  they  also  were  full.  My 
dear  husband  went  in  pursuit  of  a  carriage  to 
convey  us  to  Hamilton.  As  a  favor,  procured 
one  sufficiently  large  to  take  ourselves  and  bag- 
•  gage.  Stopping  at  the  post-office,  we  received 
several  letters  from  our  friends,  giving  us  much 
intelligence,  our  friends  generally  well,  with  one 
or  two  exceptions,  and  anxiously  looking  for  our 
return. 

We  soon  ascertained  that  Thomas  W.  Godet, 
who  resides  near  Hamilton,  was  doing  business 
in  this  place.  We  made  ourselves  known  to  him, 
and  he  immediately  urged  our  acceptance  of  a 
visit  to  his  mother.  Our  ride  was  along  the 
margin  of  the  sea, — oleanders,  in  great  beauty, 
skirting  the  road  on  either  side.  We  rode  about 
twelve  miles  to  the  house  of  his  mother.  We 
found  her  a  most  kind  and  hospitable  woman, 
who,  with  her  three  lovely  daughters  and  the 
promising  young  man  who  accompanied  us,  with 
two  little  boys,  did  all  in  their  power  to  make  it 
agreeable  to  us. 


BERMUDA.  219 

We  also  visited  her  daughter  and  husband,  by 
the  name  of  Darrell,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the 
island,  son  of  Chief  Justice  Darrell,  at  whose 
house  we  visited, — a  fine  location,  not  far  from 
Hamilton.  We  spent  one  week  with  our  friends 
on  this  island. 

19th.  Spent  one  day  at  Elizabeth  Aletta 
Doyle's,  who  lives  in  a  fine  house  on  the  south 
side,  on  a  high  hill,  a  half  mile  off. 

20th.  Thermometer  70°;  windy  and  a  little 
rain.  Visited  the  Cove,  and  spent  the  evening 
at  Dr.  Gilbert's,  very  agreeably. 

21st.  We  were  taken  to  the  lighthouse  by  Dr. 
Harvey,  and  after  returning,  occupied  the  re- 
mainder of  the  day  in  getting  our  baggage  on 
board  the  Henrietta,  preparatory  to  sailing  to- 
morrow morning. 


CHAPTER   XV. 

Farewell — The  Kettjrn  Home. 

22d.  First  day.  We  took  leave  of  our  friends 
in  the  most  affectionate  manner,  the  young  man 
accompanjdng  us  to  the  boat,  and  remaining  with 
us  most  of  the  day,  as  we  did  not  sail  before  next 
morning  at  twelve  o'clock.  The  passengers  be- 
ing all  on  board,  the  wind  north  and  dead  ahead, 
and  tide  against  us,  we  could  not  pass  the  bar 
before  morning.  In  the  evening  we  held  a  very 
satisfactory  meeting  on  board.  The  subject  of 
practical  righteousness  was  illustrated.  We  re- 
tired to  rest  and  slept  soundly. 

Our  cargo  consisted  of  potatoes,  tomatoes, 
and  onions,  creating  a  great  heat  and  unpleasant 
odor,  making  many  very  sick. 

We  had  been  on  board  one  week  previous  to 
sailing,  in  order  to  choose  our  state-rooms,  when 
there  is  no  doubt  I  contracted  disease  from  the 
bad  odor  of  the  vessel,  it  being  appropriated  to 


ILLNESS   ON   BOARD.  221 

carrying  vegetables.  It  was  the  only  vessel  in 
which  we  could  procure  a  passage. 

Soon  after  I  was  on  board  I  was  attacked  with 
bilious  fever,  and  was  extremely  ill  during  the 
whole  of  the  passage,  so  that  my  dear  husband 
thought  my  recovery  very  doubtful.  There  had 
been  much  said  in  the  hearing  of  myself  and  hus- 
band relative  to  committing  corpses  to  the  sea, 
which  gave  him  great  concern,  so  much  so,  that  he 
afterward  told  me  his  spirit  almost  died  within 
him.  I  did  not  recover  from  the  fever  for  many 
long  months  after  my  return  home. 

On  leaving  Bermuda  we  passed  numerous 
little  islands  in  the  bay  and  over  the  shoals  that 
obstruct  the  channel,  passing  the  lighthouse  on 
one  side  and  the  dockyard  on  the  other.  It 
is  situated  on  Ireland  Island.  These  works  are 
extensive,  and  constitute  the  great  attraction  of 
visitors,  having  cost  the  government  an  immense 
amount  of  money,  and  consist  of  a  magnifi- 
cent dockyard  and  penitentiary  for  convicts. 
They  are  now  mostly  abandoned  and  kept  for 
the  repair  of  government  steamers,  and  a  barracks 
for  soldiers.  Fine  specimens  of  agate  are  found 
around  this  dockyard. 

Necessity  compelled  us  to  go  round  the  island, 


222  JOURNAL. 

and  passing  the  Georgetown  Heights  and  fort,  we 
landed  our  pilot,  and  continued  our  course  on  the 
west  side  of  the  island,  passing  the  lighthouse 
on  our  right,  took  our  course  northward  for  New 
York. 

The  wind  was  gentle,  and  the  sea  calm,  so  that 
on  third  day,  the  twenty-fourth,  at  four  o'clock, 
the  lighthouse  was  still  visible. 

30th.  Second  day.  Now  eight  days  since  we 
came  on  board.  Nothing  remarkable  has  taken 
place,  save  the  very  general  sickness  of  the  pas- 
sengers, and  variable  weather,  head  winds,  stiff 
breezes,  rough  sea,  &c,  &c,  I  myself  being  very 
ill  most  of  the  trip.  Thermometer  leaving  Ber- 
muda, seventy-two ;  to-day  it  is  sixty-eight. 

The  Island  of  Bermuda,  or  rather,  the  princi- 
pal one  among  them,  where  we  spent  most  of 
our  time  during  our  stay,  looks  fertile  and  ap- 
pears well  adapted  to  the  cultivation  of  grain, 
vegetables,  and  fruits.  To  our  surprise,  very 
little  is  cultivated,  except  a  few  kinds  of  vege- 
tables, which  they  carry  to  New  York  as  some  of 
the  earliest  of  the  season.  We  felt  satisfied  if 
any  encouragement  was  given  to  induce  the  freed 
people  to  industry,  by  allowing  them  to  cultivate 
as  much  land  as  their  capabilities  would  admit, 


THE    FREEDMEN.  223 

it  would  be  but  a  short  time  before  plenty  would 
crown  their  labors,  which  might  be  dispensed  to 
every  part  of  the  island.  They  now  depend 
on  the  United  States,  or  Europe,  for  most  of 
their  supplies.  "We  saw  great  tracts  of  country 
entirely  uncultivated,  grown  over  with  a  very  in- 
ferior kind  of  cedar,  while  great  numbers  of  the 
freed  people  remained  in  idleness  and  degrada- 
tion. This  ought  not  so  to  be.  All  might  be 
made  comfortable,  thriving,  and  happy,  if  the 
right  course  was  pursued  by  those  who  have  it 
in  their  power.  We  saw  clearly  the  cause  of  the 
poverty-stricken  condition  of  the  island.  None 
need  wonder  that  so  many  young  men  seek  other 
homes,  while  no  inducements  are  held  out  for 
them  to  remain, — no  business  of  any  account 
being  done  there,  and  the  folly  of  caste  was  too 
apparent.  This  will  have  to  be  laid  aside.  Peo- 
ple must  be  valued  for  their  worth  and  virtues. 
The  American  people  have  had  to  learn  hard 
lessons  on  this  subject;  many  of  them  written  in 
letters  of  blood.  I  hope  it  will  not  be  so  on  any 
of  the  islands,  but  it  seemed  to  us  the  measure 
of  iniquity  was,  on  some  we  visited,  wellnigh 
full. 

We  passed  a  bark  off  St.   George's  Bluffs, 


224  JOURNAL. 

going  to  Bermuda,  in  which  our  fellow  boarder 
Shotwell,  and  Dr.  Henderson,  took  passage  a 
month  since.     On  board  poor  Shotwell  died. 

31st.  Quite  cool ;  mercury  62° ;  fine  breeze. 
The  day  turned  out  fine,  the  wind  favorable,  and 
we  made  good  sail,  and  saw  land  at  five  and  a 
half  o'clock  p.  m.,  and  took  pilot  about  six  o'clock 
p.  m.  The  wind  soon  died  away,  and  we  moved 
moderately  through  the  night;  nevertheless,  it 
brought  us  to  the  Hook  at  six  o'clock.  Ther- 
mometer 67°,  and  prospect  of  a  fine  day. 

We  rose  in  time  to  see  Staten  Island  in  all  its 
gayety  and  beauty.  The  green  hills,  fine  dwell- 
ings and  improved  grounds,  were  in  such  striking 
contrast  to  what  we  had  seen,  that  I  had  to  re- 
mark, after  all,  we  have  seen  nothing  half  equal- 
ling the  beauty  now  before  us. 

We  soon  took  the  pilot  on  board,  and  next  the 
harbor-master,  and  arrived  at  Pier  27,  foot  of 
Vesey  Street,  about  six  o'clock  a.  m.,  where  we 
had  to  wait  for  the  custom-house  oflicer  until  past 
one  o'clock  p.  m.  After  being  released  by  him, 
took  carriage,  and  had  our  baggage  and  effects 
taken  to  the  station  for  Philadelphia,  at  the  foot 
of  Camden  Street  Wharf,  and  at  four  o'clock 
found  ourselves  on  the  railroad  for  Philadelphia, 


HOME.  225 

where  we  arrived  at  eight  and  a  half  o'clock  p.m. 
Found  our  house  all  prepared  for  our  reception, 
and  friends  to  receive  us,  and  with  thankful 
hearts  rejoiced  in  our  safe  arrival  at  our  own 
home,  amidst  our  many  dear  friends. 

My  own  health,  after  leaving  the  ship,  became 
better;  but  my  dear  husband's  continued  good, 
never  being  confined  to  his  bed  a  day  during  our 
travels.  I  subjoin  a  letter  written  by  him  to  our 
hostess  at  St.  Croix. 

Philadelphia,  Sixth  mo.  4th,  1864. 
Elizabeth  Brady. 

Esteemed  Friend  :  It  was  a  very  pleasant  morning  on 
the  first  of  June,  that  we  entered  the  Narrows  in  the  Bay  of 
New  York,  Staten  Island  on  the  left  and  Long  Island  on  the 
right,  commanding  the  narrow  frith  over  which  is  mounted  a 
number  of  large  implements  of  defence,  calculated  to  hurl  death 
and  destruction  to  any  who  dare  attempt  to  invade  our  country. 
As  we  looked  over  the  beautiful  hills  and  elegant  mansions  that 
are  scattered  all  over  the  island,  I  was  ready  to  cry  out,  "  Never 
have  I  seen  in  foreign  lands  anything  to  compare  to  the  beauty 
of  the  scene  before  me. ' '  Truly,  it  is  a  magnificent  sight  of  hills 
and  vales,  splendid  mansions,  green  fields  and  highly  culti- 
vated, with  lawns,  with  copses  of  trees  and  shrubbery  taste- 
fully intertwined,  giving  grace  and  beauty  to  the  splendid 
mansions  that  adorn  the  island.  Then  on  entering  New  York, 
at  the  foot  of  Vesey  Slip,  where  a  market  is  held  for  the  better 
accommodation  of  shippers  and  farmers'  craft,  we  see  a  great 

20 


226  JOURNAL. 

variety  of  meats  and  vegetables  of  the  finest  kinds,  which 
filled  my  soul  with  gratitude  to  the  Author  of  all  good  for  giv- 
ing us  a  fruitful  country,  and  inspiring  our  yeomanry  with 
industry  and  management  to  plant  and  reap  such  abundant 
harvests.  It  is  here  we  have  the  best  of  beef,  mutton,  veal, 
pork,  and  poultry  of  every  kind,  potatoes,  turnips,  cabbage, 
salad,  peas,  beans,  asparagus,  beets,  radishes,  tomatoes,  and  in- 
numerable other  vegetables  that  abound  on  every  man's  table. 
There  are  all  the  fruits  of  the  season,  as  strawberries,  cher- 
ries, apples,  gooseberries,  and  other  garden  fruits,  besides  your 
tropical  fruits,  far  excelling  anything  we  could  get  except  in 
Havana,  such  as  oranges,  lemons,  bananas,  pineapples,  &c. 
Thou  may  ask  where  are  the  sapodillas,  sugar-apples,  alligator 
pears,  water-lemons,  &c.  These  tasteless  things  we  leave  for 
islanders  to  luxuriate  upon.  Again  contemplate  with  won- 
der and  admiration  the  city  of  New  York,  second  to  none 
in  magnificence  and  grandeur,  containing  over  a  million  of 
inhabitants,  grown  up  to  importance  within  two  centuries, 
and  now  tied  to  every  part  of  the  country  by  iron  rails,  on 
which  run  with  steaming  swiftness  innumerable  cars,  con- 
veying men  of  business  and  pleasure  through  richly  cultivated 
countries,  on  which  abounds  wheat,  corn,  oats,  grass,  and  all 
kinds  of  produce  fit  for  the  consumption  of  man  and  beasts, 
and  you  have  but  a  faint  picture  of  what  we  have  returned  to 
enjoy.  Nowhere  is  there  to  be  found  on  this  habitable  earth 
(that  we  have  seen),  so  much  to  make  man  happy,  with  free- 
dom of  thought  and  liberty  of  action  (with  the  exception  of 
one  dark  spot  south),  as  this  "land  of  freedom  and  of  the 
brave." 

It  is  with  deep  concern  that  I  state  that  my  dear  wife,  on 
leaving  Bermuda,  had  on  shipboard  quite  a  smart  attack  of 


LETTER.  227 

bilious  fever ;  as  she  recovered  from  it,  and  crossed  the  Gulf 
Stream,  she  had  a  chill  succeeded  by  fever  and  cough,  which 
caused  my  spirit  to  sink  within  me,  though  we  live  in  hopes  of 
its  only  being  temporary. 

We  have  learned  since  arriving  in  New  York,  that  Shotwell 
died  on  his  passage  from  Bermuda  to  New  York,  and  that  his 
remains  were  conveyed  to  his  friends. 

"We  left  Bermuda  on  the  twenty-second  of  fifth  month,  and 
arrived  on  the  first  of  sixth  month,  making  our  passage  in  ten 
days,  experiencing  high  winds  and  calms,  turbulent  and  quiet 
sea,  sea-sickness  and  many  deprivations,  but  our  captain  made 
it  as  easy  and  comfortable  as  he  could.  We  had  on  board  fif- 
teen passengers,  and  our  cargo  consisted  of  potatoes,  onions, 
tomatoes,  and  a  few  other  vegetables.  The  odor  was  extremely 
unpleasant,  but  we  got  along  as  well  as  the  time,  conveniences, 
and  circumstances  would  admit.  Our  best  regards  salute  all 
who  may  like  to  hear  from  us,  including  friend  Dunlap,  whose 
kindness  we  shall  always  remember  with  gratitude,  in  which 
my  dear  wife  unites.     And  now  adieu. 

Thy  friend, 

J.  Wilson  Moore. 


CHAPTER  XVI. 

Conclusion. 

Having  returned  to  our  friends  and  to  our  na- 
tive land,  from  whom  we  had  long  been  separated, 
we  found  the  ravages  of  war  on  the  decrease;  al- 
though not  yet  terminated,  everything  appeared 
far  more  favorable  than  when  we  left  the  coun- 
try. At  that  time  rebellion  was  rife  in  all  the 
South,  and  found  many  sympathizers  in  the  North 
and  West.  The  Union  people,  the  lovers  of  free- 
dom, were  very  sanguine  as  to  the  result,  not- 
withstanding the  horizon  at  many  different  times 
was  dark  and  portending,  attended  with  the  thun- 
der of  cannon  and  roar  of  artillery,  and  the  loss 
of  great  numbers  of  valuable  lives,  which  caused 
the  spirits  of  many  to  die  within  them,  not  see- 
ing what  the  end  might  be.  But  the  masses  of 
the  people  felt  assured  they  had  a  veteran  at  the 
head  of  government,  the  friend  of  humanity,  a 
"good  man  and  a  just,"  who,  with  the  Divine 


REFLECTIONS.  229 

blessing,  was  capable  of  guiding  the  ship  of  state 
to  the  peaceful  and  honorable  port  he  and  they 
had  ever  kept  full  in  view,  until  rebellion  should 
be  crushed  and  made  to  "  appear  odious,"  even 
to  its  perpetrators,  while  the  fetters  of  the  bonds- 
men should  be  broken,  and  the  oppressed  and 
downtrodden  suffered  to  go  free.  All  we,  who 
were  anxiously  watching  for  the  dawn  of  that 
day,  were  made  to  rejoice  and  give  glory  to  Him 
who  can  turn  the  "  captivity  of  his  people,"  by 
instrumental  means,  when  the  intelligence  reached 
us,  and  went  forth  to  all  the  inhabitants  of  the 
land,  proclaiming  freedom  the  length  and  breadth 
thereof,  through  our  noble-souled  President,  Abra- 
ham Lincoln.  Our  prayers  and  thanksgiving  went 
up  to  Heaven  !  with  high  praises  to  Him  who  liv- 
eth  forever  and  ever,  in  that  His  arm  had  been 
raised  for  the  deliverance  of  the  oppressed. 

This  proclamation  brought  about  a  wonderful 
era  in  the  history  of  the  world.  Above  all  is  the 
record,  written  in  letters  of  gold,  on  the  tablet 
of  the  souls  of  the  four  millions  proclaimed  free ! 
with  "  a  Moses  at  their  head,  fleeing  from  the  op- 
pression of  Pharaoh!"  This  proclamation  called 
them  out  of  their  graves  to  such  a  resurrection 
as  the  world  never  saw;  not  all  the  annals  of 

20* 


230  JOURNAL. 

history  can  furnish  a  parallel  with  it.  Must  we 
not  believe  then  that  nothing  short  of  a  High 
Hand  and  Outstretched  Arm  could  have  effected 
a  miracle  of  so  great  magnitude,  so  fraught  with 
justice  and  humanity,  of  these  having  been  dead 
to  the  world,  but  now  called  to  come  forth,  to 
stand  up  like  men,  and  "  lay  aside  their  grave- 
clothes."  Large  numbers  of  them  had  escaped 
from  the  tyranny  of  their  oppressors  since  the 
commencement  of  the  war,  the  natural  result 
that  might  have  been  anticipated  by  their  short- 
sighted oppressors  as  the  sequel  of  their  rebel- 
lion. Numbers  of  them  went,  too,  into  the  Union 
army,  and  stood  up  like  men,  side  by  side,  with 
their  white  brethren,  discharging,  as  the  latter 
say,  their  duties  faithfully.  Who  can  doubt  the 
working  of  miracles  in  the  case  of  this  people? 
The  child  of  liberty  once  carried  through  the 
streets  in  effigy,  in  the  city  of  Boston,  placed  in 
a  coffin  covered  with  a  black  pall !  followed  by 
its  mourning  friends,  who  saw  it  deposited  in  the 
grave  yawning  to  receive  it,  scarcely  supposing 
it  possible  it  could  ever  know  a  resurrection, 
with  public  sentiment  crying  out  on  every  hand, 
"  Crucify  it,  crucify  it,  it  is  not  fit  to  live."  God's 
ways    are    higher    than    man's    ways,    and    His 


REFLECTIONS.  231 

thoughts  higher  than  man's  thoughts,  oft  bring- 
ing about  His  own  purposes,  through  the  very 
means  man  has  designed  for  their  overthrow. 
For  many  long  years  was  that  holy  child  of  lib- 
erty entombed  !  Few  dared  to  raise  a  voice  that 
it  would  ever  rise  again.  The  African  slave-trade 
brought  so  much  gain  to  the  craftsman,  that  not 
a  dog  dared  to  raise  his  tongue  against  it,  while 
its  proceeds  were  bringing  great  wealth  to  the 
North  as  well  as  South.  England  was  being  rich 
through  that  channel,  so  that  "  the  carpenter  en- 
couraged the  goldsmith,  and  he  that  smoothed 
with  the  hammer,  him  that  smote  the  anvil," 
until  it  was  ready  for  the  soldering,  when  they 
fastened  it  with  chains,  with  handcuffs  and  gags, 
that  it  should  not  be  moved.  All  this  was  done 
in  the  open  light  of  day,  while  the  people  stood 
aghast  and  looked  on  in  silence.  Those  were 
dark  days !  days  in  which  the  spirit  of  Antichrist 
had  great  power,  like  the  dragon  of  old,  whose 
tail  drew  the  third  part  of  professing  Christen- 
dom ;  but  his  power  could  not  continue ;  it  was 
in  the  hands  of  the  people,  and  for  them  to  say 
whether  it  should  be  crushed. 

Who  were  to  be  pioneers  in  the  great  work  ? 
was  the  question  that  oft  arose,  but  very  quietly, 


232  JOURNAL. 

among  the  friends  of  freedom.  Perhaps  Maria 
Child  was  the  first  who  wrote  a  work  on  the 
subject  when  it  was  agitated.  Her  book  was 
able  and  full  of  truth,  but  the  people  were  afraid 
to  read  it ;  it  was  sufficient  to  place  the  mark  of 
Cain  on  any  one  who  had  such  a  volume  in  his 
house.  Elias  Hicks,  one  of  the  apostles  of  this 
age,  bore  a  strong  testimony  against  this  great 
evil,  not  partaking  of  the  unrequited  labor  of 
slavery  for  a  long  feeries  of  years,  and  on  his 
deathbed,  when  past  speaking,  motioned  to  those 
around  him  to  remove  some  covering  from  his 
bed  that  contained  cotton  brought  from  the  Slave 
States.  Many  others  in  the  Society  of  Friends 
have  refrained,  as  well  as  he,  from  the  use  of 
slave-grown  labor.  About  this  time  Benjamin 
Lundy,  true  to  the  cause,  commenced  the  work, 
but  in  great  weakness,  finding  few  who  felt  will- 
ing to  engage  actively  with  him  in  it.  At  last 
he  determined  on  going  to  a  foreign  land  with  a 
large  number  of  the  people  of  color,  and  there 
by  kindness  and  industry,  under  the  hallowed 
influence  of  freedom,  show  to  the  world  what 
could  be  done  by  this  people  under  circumstances 
favorable  to  liberty  and  equal  rights.  He  de- 
signed to  give  his  whole  soul  to  the  work  as  a 


REFLECTIONS.  233 

letter  from  him,  now  in  my  possession,  will  show; 
but  he  did  not  live  to  perfect  his  philanthropic 
and  Christian  enterprise.  He  saw  it  was  out  of 
his  power  to  carry  out  his  project  in  this  pro- 
fessed "  land  of  the  free  and  home  of  the 
brave." 

Near  this  time  William  Lloyd  Garrison,  one  of 
the  invincibles,  came  forward  and  enlisted  in  the 
cause.  He  commenced  to  edit  a  paper  on  the 
subject,  under  the  most  unfavorable  circum- 
stances, being  poor  himself,  and  occupying  a 
small  house  and  shop.  In  order  to  write  for  his 
paper  he  had  to  resort  to  a  little  retired  closet 
adjoining  his  small  shop,  where  his  labors  were 
continued  until  he  had  the  paper  ready  for  the 
press,  and  when  it  came  out  it  caused  so  great  an 
excitement  that  nothing  but  his  life  could  pay  the 
penalty.  He  was  accordingly  dragged  through 
the  streets  of  Boston  with  a  rope  around  his 
neck,  after  giving  him  a  coat  of  tar  and  feathers, 
and  every  other  indignity  that  could  be  offered 
him ;  but  it  did  not  deprive  him  of  life,  as  the 
poor  deluded  people  supposed  it  would. 

A  higher  life  was  before  him,  and  he,  like  all 
other  reformers,  saw  his  course  was  up  the  rugged 
Alpine  rocks,  with  footprints  marked  with  blood; 


234  JOURNAL. 

but  for  all  this  he  did  not  slacken  his  hand.  His 
noble  soul,  being  the  embodiment  of  freedom 
and  right,  still  stood  forth  undaunted,  publishing 
his  paper  amid  showers  of  invective  and  abuse, 
simply  following  that  voice  that  leads  its  votaries 
by  a  way  they  know  not,  until  they  are  brought 
to  "  a  good  land  and  a  large,  where  there  are 
springs  and  pools  of  water."  This  has  been  ful- 
filled to  the  letter  with  the  pioneers  of  liberty! 

We  can  trace  that  little  band,  who  first  enlisted 
in  this  cause,  from  stage  to  stage  as  they  pro- 
gressed— 

"  Brave  and  undaunted  in  their  Master's  cause, 
Bold  in  contending  for  Messiah's  laws." 

That  was  a  day  that  tried  men's  souls ;  "  but  the 
friends  of  the  holy  child  that  had  been  put  in  the 
sepulchre  saw  by  the  light  of  Bethlehem's  star 
that  in  God's  own  time  it  must  have  a  resurrec- 
tion ;"  that  its  birth  was  in  Divinity,  undying  in 
its  very  nature ;  that  neither  death,  hell,  or  the 
grave  could  hold  it ;  that  angels  watched  over  to 
guard  it  until  "death  and  hell  should  deliver  up 
its  dead,"  having  power  to  burst  the  bands  of 
death,  to  feel  its  new  life,  though  "  crucified  in 
spiritual  Sodom  in  Egypt,"  where  this  divine  life 
and  birth  in  all  ages  has  met  with  a  like  fate. 
The   little  band  continued  to  increase.     The 


REFLECTIONS.  235 

darkness  that  had  hung  over  the  land  seemed  to 
portend  the  dawning  of  a  better  day.  They  felt, 
as  they  braved  the  rough  sea  of  life  and  encoun- 
tered all  that  the  enemies  of  freedom  could  heap 
upon  them,  so  much  greater  would  be  their  joy 
when  that  port,  long  looked-for,  should  be  gained. 
These  labored  on  amid  floods  of  calumny  that 
were  cast  out  of  the  mouth  of  the  dragon,  with- 
out fear  or  dismay,  no  difficulties  being  too  great 
for  them  to  encounter,  no  mob  violence  deterring 
them  from  going  steadily  forward  in  the  work. 

Among  these  were  both  men  and  women,  who 
braved  the  current  of  public  opinion.  They  had, 
with  heavy  hearts,  gone  round  the  broken  walls 
of  freedom  like  some  in  olden  time.  They  saw 
the  gates,  too,  were  burned  with  fire,  while  few 
had  yet  come  to  the  work ;  the  cry  of  those,  like 
Sanballat  and  Tobias,  going  forth  on  every  hand, 
that  all  their  efforts  to  build  the  walls  were  so 
weak  and  vain,  that  a  "fox  running  thereon 
would  prostrate  it  to  the  ground."  They  heeded 
not  such  discouraging  views,  although  they  often 
encountered  Foxes  "  no  better  than  Herod." 
They  continued  to  work  on,  regardless  of  being 
stigmatized  as  fanatics.  They  found  it  needful, 
while  building  the  walls,  as  Kehemiah  did,  to 


236  JOURNAL. 

hold  "  the  weapons  of  defence  in  one  hand  while 
they  built  with  the  other,"  which  weapons  were 
love  to  God  and  man. 

Many  of  these  might  truly  be  called  saviours 
of  their  race,  having  thrown  their  whole  souls  in 
the  work. 

Among  these  was  the  intrepid  Lucretia  Mott, 
the  persevering  and  whole-souled  Esther  Moore, 
and  a  host  of  others,  who  engaged  in  the  same 
cause  with  them.  Not  fearing  to  be  found  at  the 
burning  of  Pennsylvania  Hall,  where  an  Aboli- 
tion meeting  was  then  being  held,  or  where  mobs 
were  gathered  as  they  held  their  meetings  at  other 
places ;  or  in  court  rooms,  where  poor  downcast 
fugitives  were  to  be  tried  and  condemned  for  en- 
deavoring to  gain  their  liberty.  "Who  can  wonder 
that  war  came?  This  last  was  considered  a  sin 
of  the  deepest  dye,  and  worthy  of  death.  These 
noble  women  followed  them  in  the  dark  recesses 
where  they  were  oft  secreted  for  a  sham  trial, 
and  in  almost  every  instance  sent  back  again 
into  slavery.  These  friends  of  humanity  re- 
mained by  their  side,  striving  to  pour  balm  into 
their  afflicted  hearts,  telling  them  a  better  day  was 
coming, — little  thinking  this  better  day  would 
come  in  this  generation.     The  writer  of  this  has 


REFLECTIONS.  237 

been  present  with  them  on  such  occasions.  These 
were  called  fools,  as  well  as  madmen,  while  their 
souls  glowed  with  the  light  of  God's  spirit.  Not 
only  was  this  work  progressing  amid  the  tumult 
and  noise  in  the  North,  but  it  was  carried  on  in 
the  far  sunny  South : 

"  Ordained  to  be  the  pride  of  lands, 
Whose  joyous  spring  should  bloom  as  Eden, 
And  rivers  sweep  o'er  golden  sands." 

But  not  without  the  risk  of  life  or  limb ;  as 
where  freedom  lies  buried,  all  iniquity  abounds. 
No  one  who  ventured  there  could  indulge  the 
fond  belief  that  he  should  return  unscathed.  To 
this  general  rule  there  were  exceptions;  those 
who  would  not  harm  the  head  of  any  one,  and 
whose  kindness  to  the  writer  of  this  article  will 
never  be  forgotten.  They  were  the  opponents 
of  slavery — lawyers  and  judges — but  they  were 
weak.  Judge  Bullock,  of  New  Orleans,  among 
these,  and  lawyer  Hen  nan,  both  eminent  in  their 
profession,  were  exceedingly  kind  to  me  after 
my  return  from  the  calaboose,  where  I  went  with 
my  friends  from  the  North  and  in  company  with 
the  mother  of  lawyer  Hennan.  We  saw  there 
barbarities  too  shocking  for  humanity  to  perpe- 

21 


238  JOURNAL. 

trate,  and  which  I  shall  ever  regret  were  not 
made  public  on  my  return;  but  it  will  not  do  to 
look  back,  the  great  work  is  now  before  us. 

The  subject  of  emancipation  found  its  way  to 
our  legislative  halls  at  an  early  day  of  the  Aboli- 
tion movement;  but  was  found  needful  to  bring 
it  before  Congress  or  the  Senate  with  great  care, 
as  the  slaveholders  were  sanguine  in  the  belief 
that  the  child  of  liberty  had  been  buried  so  deep, 
and  "  watch  so  strictly  kept,"  that  no  legislative 
action  could  penetrate  the  dark  recesses  where 
they  had  laid  the  body,  and  where  the  seal  of 
compromise  had  been  placed  upon  the  stone  at 
the  mouth  of  the  sepulchre. 

We  see  a  parallel  case  with  poor  benighted 
Cuba,  as  well  as  all  the  other  islands  where  sla- 
very now  exists.  They  are  all  wallowing  in 
blood,  dirt,  and  filth,  while  Catholicism  and 
priestcraft  reign  supreme,  and  the  priests  are 
daily  seen  going  to  their  devotions  in  long  robes. 
But  God  is  just,  and  his  justice  will  not  forever 
slumber.  We  oft  asked  each  other  the  question, 
are  these  ministers  of  Christ,  who  like  the  Apos- 
tle Paul,  felt  that  "necessity  was  laid  upon  him, 
and  woe  would  be  unto  him  if  he  preached  not 
the  Gospel  ?"    If  they  were  ministers  of  the  Word 


REFLECTIONS.  239 

of  God  would  they  not  be  "preaching  liberty  to 
the  captives,  and  the  opening  of  the  prison  house 
to  those  that  are  bound?"  and  make  it  their 
business  to  leave  nothing  undone  to  "  unbind 
heavy  burdens,  and  let  the  oppressed  go  free  ?" 
to  break  every  yoke,  to  inquire  "  of  the  Divine 
oracle  what  they  should  do  to  be  saved?"  and 
bring  to  mind  the  law  of  God,  violated  in  their 
hearts,  both  past  and  present,  in  holding  the  lives 
of  their  fellow-creatures  in  the  same  way  the}' 
held  their  cattle,  having  no  more  regard  for  their 
feelings  of  affection  one  for  another,  "  than  the 
beasts  that  perish." 

John  Quincy  Adams  was  the  man  for  that  day 
and  hour,  but  he  could  only  bring  in  his  views  in 
the  most  cautious  manner  possible,  as  it  appeared 
very  likely  his  life  would  pay  the  penalty  if  he 
persevered  to  any  considerable  extent.  Not  long 
after  this,  other  speeches  were  made,  touching 
the  cause  of  freedom,  but  with  caution,  as  all 
knew  that  death,  or  the  most  violent  measures, 
would  be  used  against  any  one  who  dared  to 
come  forth  bold!jT,  and  place  the  enormous  crime 
in  its  proper  light. 

The  life  of  a  Lovejoy  was  at  that  time  sacri- 
ficed on  the  altar  of  slavery.     Many  others  met 


240  JOURNAL. 

with  the  same  fate,  while  our  modest  though 
noble-souled  Sumner,  came  out  against  the  giant 
cause,  in  strains  of  deeply  inspired  eloquence,  at 
different  periods  of  the  crusade,  for  which  the 
strongest  invective  was  poured  out  upon  him. 
He  heeded  it  not ;  he  knew  the  "  cause  was  holy, 
as  well  as  the  ground  on  which  he  stood."  He 
made  many  good  and  well-timed  speeches  on  the 
subject,  calling  the  system  "  barbarous."  Not 
only  Sumner  stood  forth,  in  those  days  of  peril, 
undaunted.  Stevens  well  knew  that  "  noble 
ends  required  noble  means"  to  carry  them  out. 
These  sons  of  the  morning  saw  the  bright  light, 
— the  star  of  immortal  glory, — high  up  in  heav- 
en, while  God's  work  and  image  was  being 
desecrated  before  "  the  shrine  of  Moloch,"  and 
galling  fetters  were  on  the  American  citizen, 
whose  cry  has  ever  been,  "  Am  I  not  a  man  and 
brother?"  Thaddeus  Stevens  has,  for  a  long 
series  of  years,  been  one  of  those  whole-souled, 
outspoken  men ;  he  has  stood  as  the  champion  of 
liberty,  advocating  the  cause  of  justice  and  hu- 
manity, "  firm  as  the  Rock  of  Gibraltar."  For 
many  years  has  this  subject  been  treated  in  Con- 
gress with  much  ability  and  zeal,  and  even  at 
this  time  the  aged  veteran  is  standing  forth  in 


REFLECTIONS.  241 

our  legislative  halls,  as  in  the  vigor  of  youth,  and 
with  strength  of  mind  as  in  early  manhood.  I 
have  been  watching  his  movements  during  the 
past  winter  and  have  found  him  truly  great. 

If  prayer  will  prove  effective  in  holding  him 
to  the  warm  hearts  of  the  friends  of  justice  and 
right,  he  will  still  live  on,  pleading  the  cause  of 
injured  innocence.  But  should  the  slender 
thread  of  life,  in  the  providence  of  God,  be  cut 
asunder,  may  his  mantle  fall  on  one  or  many 
spirits  worthy  to  plead  the  cause  he  has  so  long 
and  so  ably  advocated. 

Truly  this  is  a  wonderful  age  in  which  we  of 
this  generation  live, — an  age  of  soul-stirring  and 
thrilling  incidents^— ^an  age  of  great  discovery  in 
the  arts  and  sciences.  The  submarine  telegraph 
being  the  topmost  round  on  the  ladder  yet 
reached, — daily  bringing  the  occurrences  and  in- 
cidents of  foreign  lands  in  connection  with  our 
own;  wonderfully  calculated  to  promote  peace 
and  happiness  in  every  clime.  Much  more  might 
be  said  of  science  and  the  arts,  but  the  present 
must  suffice.  This  is  an  age,  too,  of  light  and 
shadow,  which  have  been  signally  intermingled 
in  the  cause  of  justice  and  the  equal  rights  of 
all;    an  age  in  which    the  most  unusual  course 

21* 


242  JOURNAL. 

has  been  pursued.  In  the  passage  of  laws  by  our 
last  Congress,  histor}7  cannot  furnish  a  parallel. 
Little  necessity  has  been  felt  for  the  co-operation 
of  the  successor  of  our  late  dearly  loved  and 
lamented  President,  whose  spirit,  as  it  winged 
its  flight  to  a  higher  sphere,  seemed  to  rest  on 
many  he  left  behind,  whose  light  has  shone, 
since  his  departure,  with  greater  lustre,  seeming 
to  have  caught  the  same  inspiration  as  his  mantle 
fell. 

His  speech  in  Independence  Hall,  in  our  city 
of  Philadelphia,  is  now  brought  to  mind,  as  he 
was  going  on  to  Washington,  before  his  inaugur- 
ation :  "If  he  was  favored,  after  he  was  placed  in 
office,  to  lift  the  heavy  burdens  from  the  shoul- 
ders of  the  oppressed,  he  should  feel  himself  the 
happiest  of  men ;  but  should  he  be  unsuccessful 
in  his  efforts  to  do  this,  he  would  much  rather 
suffer  death  on  that  spot."  This  was  the  whole- 
souled  man,  and  happy  instrument  in  the  hand  of 
God,  in  "  proclaiming  liberty  thoughout  the  land, 
to  all  the  inhabitants  thereof;"  in  unbinding 
heavy  burdens;  and  he  was  the  man  for  that 
"hour," — the  right  man  in  the  right  place — 
letting  the  oppressed  go  free.  Sad  indeed  is  the 
retrospect,  and  our  hearts  sicken  ;it  the  thought, 


REFLECTIONS.  243 

that  his  useful  and  valuable  life  was  sacrificed  to 
pay  the  penalty  for  his  devotion  to  the  cause  of 
humanity.  He  was  assassinated  the  spring  fol- 
lowing our  return  from  the  West  Indies,  at  the 
close  of  the  late  calamitous  war,  by  those  who 
should  have  honored  and  reverenced  him  as  the 
deliverer  of  this  great  nation  from  the  thral- 
dom of  slavery,  without  the  shedding  of  a  single 
drop  of  blood.  Had  he  lived,  his  deep  and  think- 
ing mind  would  have  kept  those  who  called 
themselves  the  "  chivalry,"  so  much  in  check, 
that  long  ere  this,  in  all  probability,  they  would 
have  been  sutficiently  humbled  to  have  come 
back  into  the  Union,  with  a  sense  of  their  folly 
and  madness  in  promoting  rebellion,  in  order  to 
subdue  the  North,  and  carry  their  abominable 
idol  of  slavery  over  its  fair  domain.  But  with 
the  encouragement  received  from  our  present  in- 
cumbent, they  have  tried  in  vain  to  throw  off  the 
shame  and  mortification  of  their  doings,  he  hav- 
ing acted  in  concert  with  them  in  their  wild 
schemes  again  to  bring  about  slavery  in  its 
second  advent;  to  bind  fetters  on  the  emancipa- 
ted, or  compel  our  government  to  pay  a  price  for 
them ;  either  of  which  would  be  unreasonable 
and  monstrous. 


244  JOURNAL. 

Some  of  the  States  lately  in  rebellion  have 
concluded  that  "  discretion  is  the  better  part  of 
valor,"  and  are  now  submitting  to  the  benign 
laws  enacted  during  the  past  winter  by  the  late 
Congress.  Such  a  Congress,  in  the  absence  of  a 
President,  as  will  astonish  the  world  in  all  com- 
ing time  with  its  history.  Such  a  Congress  as 
the  fathers  of  the  Revolution,  great  as  they  were, 
were,  in  the  estimation  of  the  writer,  weak  in 
comparison  with  the  one  just  passed.  Such  a 
Congress  as  has  carried  death  and  destruction  to 
slavery,  by  the  powerful  arm  of  legislation. 
Their  thrilling  words  of  justice  and  humanity 
have  pierced  the  vitals  of  the  rebels  of  the 
South,  as  well  as  their  sympathizers  of  the  North, 
like  a  "  well-directed  arrow  from  a  bow."  Such 
a  Congress  as  has  caused  the  very  ground  on 
which  they  stand  to  feel  its  shock,  as  of  an  earth- 
quake, ready  to  swallow  them  up.  Indeed,  a  vol- 
canic shock  has  been  felt  by  them,  during  the 
last  eventful  session,  while  large  numbers  of 
them  felt  its  force  in  the  speeches  held  forth, 
with  undaunted  courage,  by  the  venerable  Stev- 
ens, by  a  Sumner,  a  Howard,  a  Wilson,  a 
Wade,  and  a  Butler,  as  well  as  our  own  William 
D.  Kelley,  and  many  others  who  stood  firm  and 


REFLECTIONS.  245 

unwavering  in  the  cause  of  justice  and  right. 
We  love  to  linger  over  speeches  so  full  of  soul 
that  not  one  dark  spot  dims  their  lustre. 

But  how  is  it  with  the  poor,  fallen  South  ? 
Those  who  said,  not  long  since,  the  "  man  of 
color  had  no  rights  that  the  white  man  was 
bound  to  respect,"  which  I  readily  admit  to  be 
true  while  they  deprive  them  of  their  God-given 
rights.  A  change  has  come  over  their  dreams ; 
and  the  change  is  so  great  in  their  tone  of  feel- 
.ing  as  to  solicit  the  vote  of  the  colored  man,  in 
order  to  restore  a  lost  reputation,  and  place  them 
where  they  were  six  years  ago.  Some  of  the 
States  have  elected  colored  municipal  officers,  in- 
stead of  the  whites ;  the  colored  being  now 
eligible  for  any  office  in  the  gift  of  the  people. 
Even  the  most  sanguine  Abolitionist  could  not 
have  believed  it  possible  that  such  a  change 
would  have  come  over  this  nation  in  five  short 
years.  Had  any  one  prophesied  such  a  state  of 
things  would  have  been  brought  about  in  this 
country,  we  should  have  said,  perhaps,  as  one  of 
old,  "  If  the  Lord  should  make  windows  in  heav- 
en, might  this  thing  be."  But  we  see  "  with 
God  all  things  are  possible;"  that  he  has  opened 
the  windows  of  heaven,  and  has  poured  out  one 


246  JOURNAL. 

of  the  greatest  blessings  upon  this  nation,  while 
he  has  ordained  that  the  "  transgressions  of  the 
wicked  shall  correct  them,  and  their  backslidings 
reprove  them, — -justice  and  mercy  being  the  habi- 
tation of  his  throne."  And  now,  at  the  time  I 
am  writing,  comes  the  intelligence  from  our  State 
Legislature,  that  all  prohibition  is  removed  rela- 
tive to  allowing  colored  persons  to  ride  in  our 
city  cars.  For  all  which  we  praise  and  magnify 
the  great  Being  who  "  turns  the  captivity  of  his 
people  as  the  streams  of  the  south." 

I  have  written  the  foregoing  article,  not  only 
to  diffuse  correct  information  in  some  parts  of 
our  own  country,  but  think  this  work  may  find 
its  way  in  the  "West  Indies,  and,  possibly,  in 
South  America;  greatly  desiring  that  it  should 
reach  slave-land,  on  the  Island  of  Cuba.  They 
will  see  what  oppression  and  tj'ranny  have  done 
for  all  lands,  sooner  or  later.  The  sum  of  all 
villanies  is  now  in  the  zenith  of  its  power  on 
that  island.  But  it  has  but  a  short  race  to  run ; 
the  sands  in  the  glass  are  but  few,  and  the  meas- 
ure of  iniquity  wellnigh  full,  as  we  saw  it  in 
mental  vision  when  there,  and  have  oft  seen  it 
since.  The  day  of  retribution  is  at  hand,  as  they 
that  "  bow  not  in  mercy  will  bow  in  judgment." 


REFLECTIONS.  247 

The  "Babylon"  slavery  is  destined  to  fall,  and 
it  will  there  as  certainly  as  it  has  in  this  land  ; 
and  "great  has  been  the  fall,"  desolating  the 
Southern  States  with  blood  and  carnage.  Now, 
poverty  and  famine  are  staring  the  people  of  the 
South  in  the  face;  they  are  merely  preserved 
from  starvation  by  begging  from  the  Union 
people  of  the  North,  against  whom  they  have 
been  fighting. 

The  deluded  slaveholders  have  brought  them- 
selves to  poverty  and  disgrace,  through  cupidity 
and  wicked  devices,  to  continue  those  they  had  so 
long  oppressed  in  perpetual  slavery.  Let  this 
condition  of  things  be  a  warning  to  all  who  still 
cling  to  the  barbarous  system.  Remember  a  day 
of  retribution  is  at  hand,  when  the  judgments  of 
an  offended  God  will  be  poured  out  upon  all 
those,  while  they  will  be  the  authors  of  their  own 
destruction,  as  this  is  the  portion  of  the  wicked. 
Turn  then  from  the  evil  of  your  ways  and  doings, 
if  happily  you  may  find  forgiveness  through  sin- 
cere repentance. 

Well  may  a  lamentation  be  made  over  the 
cities  where  slavery  still  reigns,  as  it  was  over 
Jerusalem :  "  How  oft  would  I  have  gathered 
thee  as  a  hen  gathers  her  chickens  under  her 


248  JOURNAL. 

wings,  but  thou  wouldst  not,"  therefore  is  thy 
house  left  unto  thee  desolate,  and  the  things  that 
belong  to  thy  peace  hidden  from  thine  eyes.  At 
thy  fall,  as  of  Babylon  of  old,  many  will  stand 
afar  off  to  see  the  smoke  of  thy  burning,  "  weep- 
ing and  wailing,  saying,  Alas  !  alas !  for  this  great 
city,"  and  the  profitable  traffic  in  slaves,  which 
has  made  so  many  rich  through  the  abundance  of 
her  slave  labor,  for  no  man  buyeth  her  merchan- 
dise any  more.  But  all  nations  have  partaken  of 
the  wine  she  has  mingled,  flavored  with  the  odor 
of  the  sighs  and  groans  heard  on  plantations  un- 
der the  lash,  from  the  den  of  the  calaboose,  in 
painful  separations,  or  on  board  slavers  as  they 
pursued  their  course  over  the  trackless  ocean, 
freighted  with  human  flesh,  with  God's  image  in 
their  souls,  to  be  offered  for  sale  to  monsters  in 
human  shape,  to  men  who  heed  God's  law  no 
more  than  they  "glorifying  themselves  and  liv- 
ing luxuriously,"  saying  in  their  hearts,  "I  sit  as 
a  queen,  I  am  no  widow,  I  shall  see  no  sorrow." 
"  Therefore  shall  her  plagues  come  in  one  day, 
death,  mourning,  and  famine,  for  strong  is  the 
Lord  God  that  judgeth  her."  "  The  fruits  thy 
soul  lusted  after  are  departed  from  thee,  all  that  is 
dainty  and  goodly  has  departed  from  thee;"  and 


REFLECTIONS.  249 

thy  nefarious  traffic  in  slaves  has  departed  from 
thee,  which  was  thy  great  revenue.  Many  will  cry 
out,  "Alas!  for  that  great  city,  that  was  clothed 
in  fine  linen,  purple,  and  scarlet,  and  decked 
with  gold  and  precious  stones,  and  pearls,"  pro- 
cured by  the  slave  trade,  "  for  in  one  hour  is  so 
great  riches  come  to  nought."  As  of  old,  many 
will  "  cast  dust  on  their  heads,  weeping  and  wail- 
ing," while  the  "  light  of  a  candle  shall  be  no  more 
seen  in  thee,"  lighted  up  by  the  abomination  of 
slavery;  "neither  the  voice  of  the  bridegroom, 
nor  that  of  the  bride,"  decked  with  the  proceeds 
arising  from  twenty  to  twenty-two  hours  of  un- 
requited toil  from  the  poor,  hard-driven,  down- 
trodden slaves,  while  their  sighs  went  up  to 
Heaven,  with  every  passing  gale,  in  prayer  deep 
and  low  for  deliverance  from  the  barbarism  of 
those  who  required  this  of  them;  the  air  being 
tainted  with  the  pestilential  breath  of  slavery, 
from  sea  to  sea,  and  from  the  rivers  to  the  very 
ends  of  the  earth.  But  thanks  be  to  the  great 
Author  of  all  good,  in  that  our  land  is  now  the 
land  of  liberty,  and  America  an  asylum  for  the 
oppressed. 

May  we  now  and  ever  adopt  this  motto, 

All  hail  to  the  Land  of  the  Free  ! 
22 


MEMOIR 


DOCTOR  JOHN  WILSON  MOORE. 


GEORGE  TRUMAN,  M.D. 


DOCTOR  JOHN  WILSON  MOORE. 


The  memory  of  those  with  whom  we  have  had 
frequent  intercourse,  and  whose  qualities  of  mind 
endeared  them  to  us,  seem  to  call  after  their  de- 
parture from  our  midst,  for  some  proof  that,  in 
their  labors  and  walk  in  life,  we  remembered  and 
honored  them  because  of  their  devotion  to  truth ; 
to  their  endeavors  for  the  improvement  of  their 
race ;  to  their  warm  charities  dispensed  with  lib- 
eral hand ;  to  the  general  good  which,  like  a  light, 
shone  continually  about  them,  giving  proof  that 
they  were  way-marks  for  others, — "As  a  city,  set 
upon  a  hill,  which  cannot  be  hid." 

It  is  with  such  feelings  that  we  portray  the  life 
of  Doctor  John  Wilson  Moore,  believing  that  a 
recurrence  to  some  of  the  circumstances  con- 
nected with  his  earthly  pilgrimage,  may  be  the 
means  of  promoting  like  action  in  others. 

He  was  born  in  Talbot  County,  on  the  Eastern 
22* 


254  M  EMOIR. 

Shore  of  Maryland,  twelfth  month,  17th,  1789. 
His  parents  were  Robert  and  Mary  "Wilson  Moore. 
His  father  emigrated  in  1783  from  Ireland  in  his 
younger  life,  and  settled  in  that  part  of  Mary- 
land. Having  been  bred  a  physician,  he  engaged 
in  the  practice  of  his  profession  in  the  neighbor- 
hood of  Easton,  where  the  subject  of  our  memoir 
passed  his  earlier  life.  There  was  nothing  strik- 
ingly peculiar  that  marked  the  period  of  his 
youth  other  than  a  sweet  and  an  amiable  disposi- 
tion, which  endeared  him  to  those  of  every  class 
with  whom  he  mingled. 

In  1807  he  entered  the  Pennsylvania  Hospital, 
in  Philadelphia,  as  a  pupil  of  medicine ;  it  being 
the  custom  at  that  time  to  receive  such,  for  in- 
struction in  that  institution.  During  tins  noviti- 
ate he  pursued  his  studies,  attending  to  the  duties 
assigned  him  in  the  hospital,  as  well  as  the  usual 
courses  of  lectures  at  the  University,  where  he 
graduated  with  honor  about  the  year  1812.  Af- 
ter this  he  was  appointed  one  of  the  resident 
physicians  of  the  hospital.  From  this  period  his 
professional  success  realized  his  expectations. 
Naturally  of  an  affable  disposition,  the  bedside 
of  the  sick  tended  to  improve  it;  and  few  among 
his  fellow-practitioners  exhibited    more  of  that 


MEMOIR.  255 

tender  regard  and  kindly  interest  which  so  much 
attracts  the  patient,  and  induce  almost  unlimited 
confidence. 

In  consequence  of  this  he  became  a  favorite  in 
many  families  as  a  "  beloved  physician."  His 
politeness  seemed  peculiarly  his  own.  It  was  not 
imitation,  but  grew  out  of  an  innate  sense  of  the 
proprieties  of  demeanor  in  the  sick  chamber,  and 
in  social  intercourse,  which  ever  made  his  pres- 
ence agreeable.  It  was  the  politeness  of  the  true 
Christian,  and  showed  itself  equally  the  same  to 
all,  no  matter  what  their  position  in  life.  This 
maimer  attached  him  to  many  from  the  belief  of 
its  sincerity,  and  of  its  growth  out  of  a  pure  heart ; 
hence,  every  one  was  made  easy  in  his  presence, 
and  was  prepared  to  look  to  him  as  counsellor 
and  friend. 

In  the  year  1813  (tenth  month,  6th),  he  mar- 
ried Mary  Lewis,  the  daughter  of  Mordecai  and 
Hannah  Lewis,  of  Philadelphia.  After  this  event 
they  established  their  residence  in  Spruce  Street, 
near  Third,  where  they  remained  up  to  fhe  year 
1864,  about  fifty  years.  A  few  years  after  his  mar- 
riage, his  devotion  to  his  professional  duties  ap- 
peared to  have  an  undermining  effect  upon  his 
constitution,  and  evidences  were  apparent  of  pul- 


256  MEMOIR. 

monary  disease.  Believing  that  he  might  re- 
move this  by  proper  treatment,  he  temporarily 
surrendered  his  practice,  and  leaving  his  home, 
commenced  a  system  of  horseback-riding,  and 
exposure  to  the  free  air  of  the  country — by  which 
judicious  course  in  a  few  months,  a  change  was 
effected,  with  his  entire  recovery;  when  he  re- 
turned to  his  family  and  friends  renewedly  pre- 
pared to  encounter  the  anxieties  of  medical  life. 
This  recovery  appeared  permanent  from  that  time, 
as  we  hear  no  more  of  a  similar  condition  of  his 
system.  His  practice  continued  to  increase  largely 
from  this  period,  and  we  find  him  closely  atten- 
tive to  its  various  duties,  ever  keeping  in  view 
the  necessity  of  his  standing  constantly  ready  to 
meet  the  calls  of  those  who  might  need  his  aid  or 
counsel.  His  honorable  care  in  this  respect,  was 
met  by  a  corresponding  feeling  of  regard  from 
those  in  charge,  as  many  testimonials  of  their 
esteem  and  appreciation  of  his  skill  were  fur- 
nished from  time  to  time,  showing  how  deeply  he 
had  impressed  their  minds  by  his  truly  Christian 
regard,  as  well  as  for  his  matured  abilities  in  his 
profession. 

In   the   year  1816,  in    her   sixtieth   year,   his 
mother,  Mary  Moore,  departed  this   life.     The 


MEMOIR.  257 

impress  of  the  purity  and  loveliness  of  this  amia- 
ble woman  was  evidently  largely  visible  in  the 
character  of  the  son.  She  was  one  who  was  held 
in  high  esteem  among  her  friends  and  neighbors, 
as  is  evinced  by  testimonials  to  her  worth  and 
excellence,  both  from  her  monthly  and  quarterly 
meetings,  as  well  as  from  those  who  were  not  of 
the  Society  of  Friends.  She  was  a  minister  in 
the  Society  for  about  nine  years ;  her  first  ap- 
pearance occurring  about  her  fifty-first  year.  In 
this,  her  calling,  she  appeared  to  be  highly  ap- 
preciated, giving  evidence  that  she  was  led  by  a 
Spirit  which  was  qualified  to  dispense  in  due  sea- 
son the  consolations  of  that  Gospel  which  ever 
promotes  the  growth,  comfort,  and  edification  of 
all  who  may  come  within  the  outspreading  of  its 
life  and  power. 

During  the  period  between  the  years  1825  and 
1827,  his  mind  was  deeply  impressed  with  the 
difficulties  which  were  then  growing  in  the  So- 
ciety of  Friends,  and  which  seemed  sooner  or 
later,  to  look  towards  a  surrender  of  that  relig- 
ious freedom  which  had  so  conspicuously  marked 
the  Society  from  its  rise,  or  an  entire  separation 
from  the  discordant  elements  which  were  then 
assuming  power  and  dictation. 

Having   been    early  grounded   in    the    simple 


258  MEMOIR. 

faith  of  the  Society,  with  the  enjoyment  of  its 
enlarged  freedom,  he  was  not  disposed  to  surren- 
der that  liberty,  nor  that  faith  which  had  been 
his  blessed  reliance,  without  a  straggle,  or  to  enter 
upon  doubtful  disputations  on  doctrines  hereto- 
fore unknown  to  the  body  of  Friends,  or  to  em- 
brace opinions  simply  because  they  were  fostered 
and  forced  upon  timid  minds,  by  those  whom 
their  confidence  had  placed  in  authority  in  the 
church. 

Trusting  in  the  moving  principle  of  Divine 
Truth  in  the  soul,  he  clung  closely  to  it,  and 
awaited  its  direction,  nothing  doubting  but  that 
there  would  be  a  safe  and  an  abiding  place  found 
for  all  those  who  would,  in  humility,  look  for  the 
overturning  hand  of  Him  who  seemed  now  ready 
to  cleanse  His  tabernacle,  and  to  separate  the  dead 
opinionist  from  the  living  child  who  could  only 
look  to  the  one  Head,  the  Holy  and  True  Father, 
for  daily  support  and  right  instruction.  At  this 
time  we  therefore  find  him  in  connection  with 
the  many  Friends,  who  felt  themselves  bound  to 
the  testimony  which  their  fathers  had  borne,  in 
connection  with  their  own  individual  experiences 
of  the  manifestations  of  that  inward  light,  which 
lighteth  every  man  that  cometh  into  the  world ; 
and  which  they  believed  stood  separate  and  apart 


MEMOIR.  259 

from  any  conventional  rule  or  words  of  doctrine, 
many  of  which  were  now  brought  forward  as 
truth  which  had  been  unknown,  or  unheard  of  in 
the  Society,  as  a  bond  of  union. 

His  extended  sympathy  in  the  direction  he 
now  took,  with  his  firmness  in  counsel  and  gen- 
eral aid,  were  useful  and  encouraging,  and  tended 
to  strengthen  many  in  the  position  they  felt  them- 
selves bound  to  maintain  before  the  world. 

In  these  movements  he  never  failed,  or  gave 
evidence  through  life  that  he  had  mistaken  his 
true  position,  but  on  the  contrary,  he  appeared  to 
grow  in  this  grace,  and  in  this  saving  knowledge, 
often  imparting  to  his  friends  in  social  intercourse 
and  otherwise,  his  faith  and  firm  dependence 
thereon,  being  enabled  at  times  to  add  strength 
to  others  from  the  clearness  of  the  impressions 
made  upon  his  understanding. 

In  his  services  among  Friends  as  a  member 
concerned  for  the  health  and  welfare  of  the  So- 
ciety, he  was  faithful  to  his  convictions,  and,  when 
questions  of  interest  and  importance  were  under 
examination  he  ever  showed  himself  ready  to 
look  at  things  with  an  eye  to  the  right  advance- 
ment of  the  church,  and  the  strength  and  comfort 
of  all.     In  expression  he  was  courteous  and  con- 


260  MEMOIR. 

ciliatory,  and  often  showed  that  he  was  moved  by 
true  wisdom  in  the  formation  of  his  judgment. 

When  it  was  proposed  in  1833  to  divide  the 
Monthly  Meeting  of  Friends  of  Philadelphia,  held 
on  Cherry  Street,  for  the  establishment  of  another 
Monthly  Meeting  at  Xinth  and  Spruce  Streets, 
our  beloved  friend  was  prominent  in  the  move- 
ment, and  aided  the  measure  to  its  accomplish- 
ment. His  connection  with  this  meeting  con- 
tinued for  a  number  of  years. 

In  first  month,  1855,  his  wife,  Mary  Lewis,  de- 
parted this  life;  a  woman  of  quiet  and  retiring 
spirit.  The  sanctuary  of  home  was  her  delight, 
there,  she  mainly  worshipped,  and  exhibited  the 
kindness  of  her  heart  by  her  attentions  to  their 
relatives  and  friends.  This  close  retirement  of 
his  wife  had  in  some  measure  an  influence  upon 
her  husband,  and  although  at  this  period  he  may 
have  mingled  less  in  general  society  than  might 
have  seemed  desirable  to  some ;  yet,  his  useful- 
ness in  many  directions  was  in  nowise  diminished, 
while  those  familiar  with  him,  were  often  enabled 
to  realize  the  force  and  value  of  his  exemplary 
life,  and  to  enjoy  the  loving  genialities  of  his 
mind. 

By  his  marriage  with  Mary  Lewis  they  had 
one  child — a  daughter,  who  claimed  and  received 


MEMOIR.  261 

the  parental  love  aud  interest  in  its  fulness.  In 
the  year  1833  she  was  married  to  Joshua  Jen- 
kins, of  Philadelphia,  by  which  connection,  a 
grandson  was  added  to  their  family  circle.  Dur- 
ing the  infancy  of  this  grandchild,  she  sickened 
and  died,  to  the  solemn  grief  of  her  husband 
and  parents,  and  of  all  who  stood  connected  with 
her,  whether  in  the  near  family  relation,  or  in 
that  of  friendship.  With  all,  she  was  honored 
and  loved,  and  her  departure  from  the  midst  of 
her  friends  was  felt  to  be  a  deep  and  weighty 
bereavement.  This  great  sorrow  falling  upon 
our  beloved  friend  and  his  companion,  was  sub- 
mitted to  by  them  with  much  Christian  philo- 
sophy; while  time,  the  healer  of  many  breaches, 
brought  with  it  calmness  and  resignation,  with  a 
firmer  position  upon  that  Rock,  from  which,  no 
storm  or  tempest  can  remove. 

On  the  17th  of  seventh  month,  1856,  he  en- 
tered into  the  marriage  covenant  with  Rachel 
Wilson  Barker,  of  Poughkeepsie,  New  York,  a 
Friend  and  Minister,  well  known  to  the  Society, 
and  greatly  esteemed.  Joining  her  husband  at 
his  residence  in  Philadelphia,  she  became  a 
member  of  the  Monthly  Meeting  of  Friends,  of 
Philadelphia,  held  on  Spruce  Street.     This  mar- 

23 


262  MEMOIR. 

riage  appeared  to  afford  much  satisfaction  to 
both,  although  it  induced  considerable  change  in 
his  general  course  of  life.  The  religious  engage- 
ments of  his  wife,  led  her  frequently  from  home  in 
their  fulfilment,  in  which  services  he  felt  bound 
to  assist,  and  afford  her  all  the  aid  his  sympa- 
thetic mind  could  extend.  On  sueh  an  occasion 
in  1858  he  accompanied  her  through  parts  of 
Illinois,  Michigan,  Upper  and  Lower  Canada  and 
of  New  York,  the  journey  occupying  several 
months  in  its  accomplishment.  The  exposure 
incident  to  this  journey  had  an  injurious  effect 
upon  his  health,  and  we  find  him  returning  an 
invalid,  from  which  he  did  not  recover  until  after 
a  severe  illness,  being  placed  at  times  in  a  very 
critical  condition.  In  this  season  of  trial  he 
manifested  great  composure,  feeling  at  times  the 
supporting  power  of  that  Presence,  which  alone 
is  able  to  preserve  in  the  deepest  privations  and 
conflicts.  Recovering  from  this  serious  illness, 
he  entered,  as  had  been  his  wont,  into  the 
various  duties  devolving  upon  him  as  the  head 
of  a  family,  and  assisting  his  beloved  companion 
in  the  fulfilment  of  her  religious  engagements  ; 
largely  devoting  himself  with  her,  to  the  ameli- 
oration of  the   condition  of  the  many  poor  who 


MEMOIR.  263 

had  ever  found  in  him  a  firm,  liberal  and  sym- 
pathizing friend. 

In  1857  circumstances  occurred  which  led 
them  to  believe  it  would  be  best  to  remove  their 
certificates  from  Spruce  Street  Monthly  Meeting, 
and  connect  themselves  with  Green  Street 
Monthly  Meeting,  of  Philadelphia.  This  was 
effected  to  their  satisfaction,  and  he  continued  a 
member  of  that  Meeting  the  remainder  of  his 
life. 

Some  time  after  this  removal,  believing  it  would 
be  right,  they  made  a  visit  to  Great  Britain, 
travelling  through  England,  Scotland,  Ireland, 
and  through  parts  of  Germany  and  France.  Dur- 
ing this  journey,  although  much  enjoyment  was 
experienced  in  the  examination  of  the  scenery 
and  objects  of  interest  which  those  countries 
afford,  yet  our  beloved  friend  had  often  to 
wade  through  many  deep  and  weighty  trials 
of  mind,  in  witnessing  that  disposition  among 
Friends  of  England  and  Ireland,  that  he  had 
so  often  to  deplore  in  his  own  city  and  country, 
during  the  period  of  the  disagreements  which 
grew  up  in  the  Society,  and  culminated  in  a  sep- 
aration in  1827. 

His  endeared  companion  felt  her  mind,  at 
times,    drawn    to    meet   with    Friends   in   their 


264  MEMOIR. 

places  of  worship,  and  with  others,  and,  when 
there,  to  open  np  truths  and  testimonies  dear  to 
her,  and  helieved  to  he  in  consonance  with  the 
well-known  doctrines  and  principles  of  the  So- 
ciety of  Friends,  as  proclaimed  and  spread  he- 
fore  the  people  of  her  own  country. 

The  attendance  of  the  meetings  of  Friends 
was  opposed,  and  measures  taken  to  thwart  those 
which  might  he  proposed  to  he  held  among  those 
not  of  the  Society.  These  mistaken  and  misdi- 
rected efforts  of  zeal  sorely  tried  and  afflicted  his 
tender  spirit;  hut  perceiving  the  supporting  power 
of  Infinite  Goodness  still  near  and  mindful  of 
them,  he  was  encouraged  to  hold  up  the  hands  of 
his  tried  companion  in  that  which  she  had  un- 
dertaken, and  we  find  them  returning  from  their 
tour  with  renewed  health,  and  with  peace  of 
mind,  to  the  joy  of  their  many  friends  at  home. 

The  condition  of  the  people  of  color  often 
brought  him  into  much  exercise  of  mind,  and  in 
company  with  his  wife,  he  was  found  engaged 
religiously  and  otherwise,  in  the  endeavor  to 
ameliorate  and  improve  their  position  as  citizens 
of  our  common  country;  their  rights,  as  such, 
he  deeming  valid  and  as  sacred  as  those  claimed 
by  the  white  inhabitants. 

In  1850,  in  company  with  his  wife,  he  visited 


MEMOIR.  265 

the  Provinces  of  Upper  and  Lower  Canada.  In 
the  Lower  Province  he  located  a  school,  a  few 
miles  from  Chatham,  near  the  "  King's  High- 
way," for  the  children  of  the  colored  people, 
refugees  from  Southern  slavery,  who  are  largely 
settled  in  that  section  of  the  country. 

The  settlement  of  this  school  grew  out  of  the 
earnest  concern  and  interest  felt  hy  his  second 
mother,  Esther  Moore,  for  this  deeply  injured 
race,  who,  claiming  the  right,  had  fled  from 
slavery  to  this  place  of  safety,  where,  under  the 
protection  and  guidance  of  the  Colonial  laws, 
they  had  the  opportunity  to  develop  themselves 
into  useful  and  intelligent  citizens.  To  aid  this, 
she  had  bequeathed  an  endowment  for  a  school, 
whicli  our  beloved  friend  hastened  to  carry  into 
effect,  and  was  enabled  to  accomplish  it  to  his 
entire  satisfaction. 

In  1861,  the  settlement  and  school  were  again 
visited,  and  the  school  found  in  a  favorable  con- 
dition, giving  promise  of  present  and  future 
good.  His  interest  in  its  welfare  continued  un- 
abated during  the  remainder  of  his  life. 

Esther  Moore,  the  second  wife  of  his  father, 
was  a  woman  of  most  excellent  qualities,  loving 
in  spirit;  her  generous  heart  was  often  touched 

23* 


266  MEMOIR. 

with  tenderness  for  the  suffering  classes  of  her 
race,  and,  so  far  as  she  was  able,  labored  earn- 
estly for  their  advancement  into  higher  positions 
of  intelligence  and  usefulness.     For  the  colored 
people,  especially,   she   worked   steadfastly   and 
faithfully.      Endowed  with  considerable   ability 
to  express  herself,  she  was  not  wanting  in  making 
known  to  her  friends  and  others  what  was  agita- 
ting her  own  mind  in  behalf  of  the  suffering  and 
the  dumb.     Through  a  long  life  she  never  failed 
to  manifest  her  zeal ;  and,  as  above  stated,  in  re- 
gard to  the  colored  school  in  Canada,  she  left 
that  as  a  memorial  of  the  deep  convictions  of 
duty  which  had,  through  good  and  evil  report, 
in  season  and  out  of  season,  been  stirring  her  in- 
ward life  to  plead  the  cause  of  these  poor,  and  to 
induce  other   minds  to   perform   an   equal   part 
with    her   in  lifting   them  up   to    a  position   of 
equality,    before    the    law,    with    their    fellow- 
citizens. 

During  the  early  part  of  the  war  of  the  Rebel- 
lion, in  the  winter  of  1862-3,  his  wife,  suffering 
severely  from  laryngeal  disease,  it  was  deemed 
advisable  for  her  to  pass  the  winter  months  in  a 
wanner  and  less  variable  climate.  With  this 
view  a  voyage  was  undertaken  to  the  West  In- 


MEMOIR.  2G7 

dies,  where  they  remained  until  the  opening  of 
the  following  summer. 

During  their  absence  they  visited  several  of 
the  Islands, — Cuba,  St.  Thomas,  Santa  Cruz, 
Barbadoes,  Trinidad,  extending  their  visit  to 
Demerara,  in  British  Guiana.  In  these  several 
visits  they  occasionally  had  meetings  with  the 
colored  inhabitants,  which  appear,  from  their 
accounts,  to  have  been  acceptable  services,  and 
brought,  in  the  effort,  comfort  to  themselves.  In 
this  visit  an  opportunity  was  had,  upon  the  Brit- 
ish and  Danish  Islands,  to  investigate  the  con- 
dition of  the  freed  people;  and  although  they 
did  not  find  them,  in  all  places,  as  far  advanced 
as  they  had  anticipated,  nor  the  prejudices  of  the 
white  inhabitants  sufficiently  removed  to  render 
them  full  justice  and  care,  as  to  educational  and 
other  measures  in  which  their  pecuniary  inter- 
ests were  involved,  yet  the  evidence  was  conclu- 
sive that  freedom  to  them  had  been,  and  would 
continue  to  be,  as  it  has  ever  been  to  all  people, 
a  great  blessing. 

On  their  return  they  found  our  country  still 
engaged  in  the  same  fearful  and  deadly  strife. 
Designing  men  throughout  the  cotton-growing 
States  had  determined,  if  possible,  to  dismember 


268  MEMOIR. 

the  government,  or  overthrow  it,  and  a  war  of 
rebellion  of  the  most  heinous  character  was 
being  enacted  for  that  purpose  mainly,  and  to  es- 
tablish the  system  of  slavery,  as  a  permanency, 
throughout  the  nation.  The  effort,  however, 
failed,  after  a  struggle  of  four  long  and  bloody 
years,  in  which  many  terrible  battles  were  fought. 
Thousands  were  slain  in  these  sanguinary  con- 
flicts, and  many  severely  injured.  The  whole 
land  mourned  during  these  awful  struggles,  be- 
cause of  these  deeds  of  death  and  sacrifice  of  so 
many  valuable  lives.  In  the  spring  of  1865, 
every  effort  on  the  part  of  the  slaveholders  hav- 
ing failed,  their  country  reduced  to  almost  abject 
destitution,  they  surrendered  at  discretion,  and 
with  this,  slavery,  for  which  they  had  risked  so 
much,  against  which  a  moral  warfare  had  been 
waged  for  many  years,  fell  forever. 

During  these  fearful  and  deadly  conflicts  our 
beloved  friend  was  often  found  in  weighty 
thoughtfulness.  The  principles  which  governed 
his  own  mind,  and  which  he  believed  to  be  in 
harmony  with  the  great  Teacher  of  Nazareth,  he 
discovered  were  mainly  unknown  or  unheeded 
by  the  people  around  him.  He  who  came  to 
preach  peace,  and  not  a  sword;  freedom,  and  not 


MEMOIR.  269 

slavery ;  although  owned  as  a  leader,  and  regard- 
ed as  a  Saviour,  was,  nevertheless,  forgotten  in 
the  present  trial.  Those  who  claimed  to  be  His 
disciples  hesitated  not  to  engage  in  the  fiercest 
battles,  and  to  encourage  all  to  follow  in  their 
footsteps.  These  great  and  appalling  movements 
among  his  countrymen  gave  our  dear  friend 
anxious  and  earnest  concern.  His  love  of  coun- 
try was  sincere.  Freedom  was  dear  to  him. 
But  the  love  of  those  great  principles  of  eternal 
truth,  infused  into  his  soul  by  the  all-wise  Author 
of  his  being,  was  above  and  beyond  all  other 
things,  and  in  this  he  found  realized  to  himself 
that  which  could  embrace  all  as  brethren.  In 
this,  too,  he  was  responding  to  the  fundamental 
testimonies  of  his  own  religious  society ;  and  for 
the  preservation  of  these,  his  spirit  yearned  that 
they  might  be  appreciated,  upheld,  and  main- 
tained. 

The  many  wounded,  and  sufferers  from  dis- 
ease, that  were  brought  from  the  armies  and 
battle-fields,  and  were  placed  in  the  military  hos- 
pitals in  and  around  the  city  of  Philadelphia, 
largely  excited  his  commiseration,  and  we  find 
him  exerting  himself,  in  company  with  his  be- 
loved companion,  for  their  relief  and  comfort. 


270  MEMOIR. 

The  tenderness  of  his  spirit,  and  the  loving  man- 
ner through  which  his  sympathies  were  accus- 
tomed to  flow  out  towards  the  afflicted  by 
disease,  enabled  him  to  approach  these  injured 
men,  to  the  gladdening  of  their  hearts,  and  the 
infusing  of  a  belief,  that,  although  separated 
from  their  families  and  friends,  they  were  not 
forgotten  in  the  hour  of  their  desolation  and 
distress. 

In  the  proclamation  of  emancipation  put  forth 
by  President  Lincoln,  he  was  deeply  interested. 
His  sympathy  for  the  poor  slave  had  ever  been 
earnest;  the  breaking  of  his  shackles,  a  subject 
of  many  prayers ;  and  now,  as  these  were  about 
being  answered,  and  the  freedom  of  the  bond- 
man prospectively  secured,  it  afforded  him  a  pure 
and  a  holy  joy.  This  proclamation  produced  a 
new  era,  with  a  new  adaptation  of  language,  and 
new  themes  for  thought  and  labor  in  our  coun- 
try. The  "  freedman,"  as  now  called,  stood  out 
before  the  people,  claiming  help  and  asking  for 
education  and  all  the  appliances  which  liberty, 
in  her  own  right,  could  give,  and  which,  being 
theirs,  might  enable  them  to  take  their  places  in 
tli is  their  new  birth  as  citizens  of  our  common 
country.     In  all  this  our  beloved  friend  brought 


MEMOIR.  271 

his  wisdom  and  his  means  liberally  into  use. 
We  find  him  promoting  "Freedmen's  Associa- 
tions," designed  to  help  these  poor  in  any  and 
every  way  which,  after  judicious  investigation, 
seemed  to  promise  success. 

To  the  free  people  of  color  in  our  city  he  ever 
extended  help  and  encouragement.  For  the 
breaking  down  of  the  odious  feeling  of  caste  he 
labored  faithfully;  calling,  at  times,  under  con- 
cern, upon  those  having  charge  of  the  passenger 
railways,  in  respect  to  the  cruel  treatment  exer- 
cised toward  them,  by  excluding  them  from  par- 
ticipating in  the  common  use  and  benefit  of  the 
cars.  He  felt  the  evil  and  inconsistency  of  this  ; 
for  while  we  were  professing  to  rejoice  in  the 
downfall  of  slavery,  we  were,  in  an  assumed  en- 
lightened community,  acting  counter  in  a  petty 
and  puerile  manner  towards  this  deeply  injured 
people. 

After  his  return  from  the  West  Indies,  he 
purchased  a  dwelling-house  and  grounds,  in  Ger- 
mantown,  to  which  they  removed  in  1864.  It 
was  with  some  reluctance  that  he  left  his  old 
mansion,  in  Spruce  Street,  which  he  had  occu- 
pied so  many  years,  and  where  he  had  passed 
hours  of  joy,  as  well  as  some  of  sorrow.     But 


272  MEMOIR. 

circumstances  of  health  seemed  to  point  to  the 
necessity  of  the  change,  and  when  it  was  accom- 
plished, he  appeared  to  enjoy  it  as  a  variation 
from  close  city  life.  He  could  now  engage  oc- 
casionally in  gardening,  which  he  appeared  to 
enjoy  with  zest  and  cheerfulness,  believing  it 
would  be  valuable  as  a  promoter  of  health. 
However  this  may  have  been  for  a  time,  we  find 
him  in  the  early  part  of  the  summer  of  1865, 
seriously  and  alarmingly  attacked  by  disease, 
which,  iu  its  characteristics,  resembled  a  chronic 
affection,  which  had  been  a  distress  to  him,  oc- 
casionally, for  many  years.  This  fact  led  his 
anxious  friends  to  believe  that  he  might  again 
recover,  as  he  had  at  times  previous ;  but  in  this 
all  were  disappointed.  His  sickness  was  often 
deeply  distressing,  and  towards  the  close,  attend- 
ed with  extreme  pain,  all  which,  however,  he 
bore  with  Christian  patience  and  fortitude,  giv- 
ing the  clearest  assurance  that  his  peace  with  his 
Heavenly  Father  was  made,  saying,  "  I  see  noth- 
ing in  my  way  like  a  cloud,  and  had  I  my  time 
to  live  over  again,  I  do  not  know  that  I  should 
be  likely  to  improve  it."  Saying  further,  "If  I 
ever  missed  my  way,  or  found  I  was  wrong,  re- 
pentance has  always  brought  forgiveness."     His 


MEMOIR.  •         273 

bedside  was  a  school  of  instruction  in  witnessing 
the  meekness  of  his  spirit.  His  close  was  calm 
and  peaceful, — his  countenance  beaming  with 
love  and  sweetness.  Thus  he  departed,  we  trust 
to  enter  that  habitation  which  has  been  prepared 
for  all  those  who  have  sought,  found,  and  hon- 
ored the  one  eternal  principle  on  which  all  life  is 
based. 

In  thus  presenting  the  character  and  labors 
through  life  of  our  beloved  friend,  it  will  be  no- 
ticed that  no  remarkably  striking  event  is  delin- 
eated in  which  to  show  any  peculiar  trait  or  bent 
of  his  mind,  further  than  his  large  benevolence; 
his  amiableness  of  manners ;  his  devotion  to 
principles  which  he  had  embraced  from  convic- 
tion ;  his  watchful  guardianship  of  those  under 
his  care;  his  attention  in  sustaining  and  encour- 
aging faithfulness  to  religious  duties ;  his  sympa- 
thy with  the  afflicted  and  suffering,  and  efforts 
to  relieve ;  his  patience  and  fortitude  when  un- 
der trial,  with  his  firm  dependence  on  the  Divine 
guidance  in  all  his  movements;  and  his  final  re- 
liance upon  that  all'disposing  Power  in  the  clos- 
ing hours  of  his  existence.  All  these  may  seem 
to  be  traits  of  character  that  are  common  to 
many;  yet,  when  the  aggregate  is  presented, 
24 


•J74  MEMOIR. 

they  form  a  whole  life  admirably  fitted  to  show 
the  working  of  that  inner  sense  of  truth  and 
government,  which  alone  flows  from  the  Foun- 
tain of  all  wisdom  and  knowledge,  and  qualifies 
man  to  become  a  true  servant  in  the  dispensing 
of  blessings  on  the  pathway  in  which  he  is  called 
to  tread.  We  cannot  doubt  that,  in  thus  fulfilling 
his  mission  on  earth,  the  blessedness  of  a  higher 
and  a  more  glorious  life  is  his, — the  invitation 
being  extended  to  all  such  laborers,  "  Come, 
ye  blessed  of  my  Father,  inherit  the  kingdom 
prepared  for  you,  from  the  foundation  of  the 
world." 

He  departed  this  life  on  the  twenty-fifth  day 
of  the  sixth  month,  1865,  in  the  seventy-sixth 
year  of  his  age,  and  was  interred  in  Friends' 
Bu rial-ground,  at  Fair  Hill.  Previous  to  which, 
a  large  number  of  his  friends  and  neighbors 
were  gathered  in  a  solemn  meeting,  and  testi- 
monies delivered  therein,  showing  the  operation 
of  the  Divine  principle  as  reflected  in  his  life 
and  conversation,  with  a  call  for  others  to  be 
found  equally  faithful  to  manifested  duty. 

Philadelphia,  Twelfth  month,  1st,  1865. 


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